just log the MAP sensor and with key on engine off see what kpa it reads (about 102kpa depending on altitude) then when ur driving anything over that kpa is boost
Engine runs, no boost.
I'm trying to find out why my car is not showing any boost on the gauge or on hptunners. I don't know if it's actually boosting or not.
I've tried tightening and checking everything like vacuum lines, sc torqued, lid torqued, bypass adjustment, but I can't figure out what's going on.
In park the car will rev up naturally everything seems fine "minus no boost"
"The car used to boost if I revd it over 3k in park no load. Before the swap"
Engine trans computer was pulled from my wrecked coupe. Also added a lot of bolt ons.
11coupe -> 09sedan
Driving the car had no power, and acts worse the more I try to go 30+.
The car will do a kinda fuel cut, and if I get around 40 the car cuts all power and start to surge.
I've tried tightening and checking everything like vacuum lines, sc torqued, lid torqued, bypass adjustment, but I can't figure out what's going on.
In park the car will rev up naturally everything seems fine "minus no boost"
"The car used to boost if I revd it over 3k in park no load. Before the swap"
Engine trans computer was pulled from my wrecked coupe. Also added a lot of bolt ons.
11coupe -> 09sedan
Driving the car had no power, and acts worse the more I try to go 30+.
The car will do a kinda fuel cut, and if I get around 40 the car cuts all power and start to surge.
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I just tried to drive it up to the store. The car does not like to go over 30 at all it starts fuel cutting and surging.
If I barely touch the gas it'll cruise at 20 anything over that and it starts acting up.
If I barely touch the gas it'll cruise at 20 anything over that and it starts acting up.
any fault codes ? what was done between in being good and now bad ?
I just did a log of everything im not seeing the map on there thojust log the MAP sensor and with key on engine off see what kpa it reads (about 102kpa depending on altitude) then when ur driving anything over that kpa is boost
engine wont run well if at all without the map sensor, is it plugged in still or become disconnected ? may be your issue if its not reading it then u wont be running well and boost wont read n such might have to check the sensor
11Coupe "modified a bit upper injectors airaid e85 catch can hx" - wrecked - engine trans computer pulled. Dropped into a 09sedan.any fault codes ? what was done between in being good and now bad ?
The car is also now full bolt ons, lower, 1300cc injectors, full exhaust, chiller, oil cooler, trans cooler, ext...
There was no codes till after driving it, and it was the same codes that came up when the battery was low. I just bought this battery and it almost died from just having the car settings for a few minutes key turned on
, iat2, iat1, cam sensor, 5 driver,
It's plugged in. The car idles and runs fine.
Until you drive it, then it runs like shit.
It idles like shit when map is unplugged.
I left it unplugged one time after like the 5th time taking my lid off to try and fix the bypass placement, and make sure everything is done right.
Until you drive it, then it runs like shit.
It idles like shit when map is unplugged.
I left it unplugged one time after like the 5th time taking my lid off to try and fix the bypass placement, and make sure everything is done right.
that comms issue will be causing problems, also the ect and camshaft will cause engine to run bad, unless they are just because of the lost comms issue id prob think to fix that and it will all turn good again
codes I believe are coming from low battery.
I cleaned all the grounds and bought a new battery, codes went away.
I had the ignition on for a few minutes with all my extra things hooked up. chiller, o2 gauge, hpt, hx pump, oil cooler fan. all running. headlights might have even been on.
New battery got low and the codes came back. Except it was crank last time not cam.
my tuner said it looked like a bad battery. on here everyone recomened cleaning the grounds. so I sanded all of them down cleaned them and put back tight.
I cleaned all the grounds and bought a new battery, codes went away.
I had the ignition on for a few minutes with all my extra things hooked up. chiller, o2 gauge, hpt, hx pump, oil cooler fan. all running. headlights might have even been on.
New battery got low and the codes came back. Except it was crank last time not cam.
my tuner said it looked like a bad battery. on here everyone recomened cleaning the grounds. so I sanded all of them down cleaned them and put back tight.
Check cam sensor, as well as MAF (could be bad ?)
Is "new" TCM from the same year V ?
Try to do TPS learn as well.
Who did the tune ? If you added ported blower + TB, your fueling will be all messed up and it won't rev/drive obviously, not trying to insult your intelligence or anything.
Is "new" TCM from the same year V ?
Try to do TPS learn as well.
Who did the tune ? If you added ported blower + TB, your fueling will be all messed up and it won't rev/drive obviously, not trying to insult your intelligence or anything.
tuned by Justinwhite, Everything is in my signature. Ported sc is ordered not installed yet.
The computer is out of the 11. The tcm and fscm are from the 09. I did a relearn on the car after swapping out the computer.
The tcm relearned the new vin. The fscm I had to buy a credit for.
The tcm relearned the new vin. The fscm I had to buy a credit for.
How should I check those sensors?
Basics first.
What is your battery voltage when checked with a DVM at the battery and also at the fuse box area?
Hook up the DVM near the fuse box and place the DVM on the windshield or hood so that you can see it and see what it reads when you try to drive the car.
Drain some fuel at the fuel rail (rig up a hose, use the fuel pump to run a cup or so into a jug) and make sure you didn't get a tank of water at some point.
Log the fuel pressure when you 'drive' it.
What is your battery voltage when checked with a DVM at the battery and also at the fuse box area?
Hook up the DVM near the fuse box and place the DVM on the windshield or hood so that you can see it and see what it reads when you try to drive the car.
Drain some fuel at the fuel rail (rig up a hose, use the fuel pump to run a cup or so into a jug) and make sure you didn't get a tank of water at some point.
Log the fuel pressure when you 'drive' it.
What you've described so far sounds like a loss of voltage OR a loss of fuel supply.
Can you post a log? A log would be significantly more useful than OBDII codes.
Can you post a log? A log would be significantly more useful than OBDII codes.
Ya I'll post the log. when I started the car today it was 13.2v on the dash
there was old e85 in there 3/4 tank. I pumped most of it out with my aux pump. there was little less then a 1/4 tank in there when the aux would no longer pump it out any more.
i got about 12gallons out. then I added 10 gallons of 91-93 im not sure which it was. then pumped out another gallon.
Ethanol reading is 28.2% so maybe 18% of the tank is still old e85? Should I drain more?
there was old e85 in there 3/4 tank. I pumped most of it out with my aux pump. there was little less then a 1/4 tank in there when the aux would no longer pump it out any more.
i got about 12gallons out. then I added 10 gallons of 91-93 im not sure which it was. then pumped out another gallon.
Ethanol reading is 28.2% so maybe 18% of the tank is still old e85? Should I drain more?
Cant figure out how to attach the log file on here. I can email it to you ?
Found it in hptuners finally, While driving, it is staying at 100kpa the whole time it drops slightly 98 at 3k rpmjust log the MAP sensor and with key on engine off see what kpa it reads (about 102kpa depending on altitude) then when ur driving anything over that kpa is boost
1 - 20 of 54 Posts
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