Maybe I reached that limit who knows? Last night after a WOT blast in 4th gear, the car stalled when I let off. I pulled over and it wouldn't turn. It literally just clicked once but wouldn't budge. I checked my oil right away and noticed smoke in the dip stick.....no shavings and oil level is normal. I then took the oil cap off and saw more smoke along with a STRONG smell of gasoline. Not sure what this means but I'm thinking one of my pistons gave.
I got the car towed home and headed right to work so haven't had a chance to survey anything as of yet. I will try to rent a bore scope to look into the block and check the plugs. No noises, no warnings, no nothing. It just gave out after I let off the throttle. Sadly, I was not logging at the time even though I had HP tuners hooked up and ready to go . Just a misfire code.
Its probably another rebuild. As far as far as forged rotating assembly, does anyone know which route I should plan for in the case that the block is usable? This has really bummed me and being in England, my choices are slim.
I doubt tuning was an issue always ran strong. No but my oil pressure was always high 40s-50s (WOT) for the last year. Seems well lubricated. Only tell tale is the smell of gasoline in it.
my #8 cylinder gave way a year ago, added dual wideband to new forged motor to find out passenger side of engine runs leaner than driver side so its critical calculate the difference in tune. If cylinder gave way let us know what cylinder
My wideband is hooked up to the passenger side collector. When I get the car back on the road, I will likely be running a dual setup JUST in case. Anyways, pending on the damage, most of my factory supercharger parts will be up for sale. I am really debating keeping the car down for a while and going TT. Might even post up a feeler thread for:
man, your car wont start and you smell gas so you assume it's smoked and needs a rebuild. That means everything I own is blown up. Lol Good luck either way!
Sucks guys but you gotta try to look at things in positive light. Hopefully I can save the block maybe the cylinder bores are scratched. Would re-sleevinng be an issue if I run more power? I keep hearing mixed results. I wouldn't mind getting the right block but getting it overseas=$$$rape$$$.
Mini me i feel for you. Please let us know what cylinder failed, Furthermore, I will not run any other AfR wideband other than NGK AFX. According to my research the NGK wideband is one of the best (accurate) low budget wideband available. I currently mounted my NGK wideband near the driver pillar (looks good), I get first hand AFR information during any WOT pulls I do. The NGK AFX display is small enough so does not take much space. I had to built a pedestal out of Styrofoam (painted it black). I will post some pics of the installation later
Funny, I posted a few weeks ago a thread concerning different AFR from bank1 to bank2. In my case, I see the opposite, my driver side is leaner by 7% (no question). Your post make me think that each v should be checked to insure the wideband is correctly mounted on the leaner side for proper tune. I my case if I would of mounted my wideband in the passenger side, I believe I also would be posting an engine failure thread, but again I am very conservative with my tune. I suspect (my opinion only) the bigger the upgrade the more difference between bank1 to bank2. I am running about to same upgrades as you, and always suspected the engine failure posted on this site were due to the variation of AFR between banks.
In a week or so, I will be checking the AFR on my buddies v, he has the same upgrades as I, it will be interesting to see which side is leaner
That really sucks to hear about, I hope you get it all straightened out quickly and back on the road. Oh and BTW, if you ship to the US [east coast] I would be interested in taking those headers and x-pipe off your hands. I'm looking for a new setup. Thank you.
Well guys, I used an NGK AFX. Who knows what happened? I had HP tuners hooked up but wasn't logging. The car is in the shop and wont be taken apart for another couple weeks until I have my ducks aligned. I did remove the blower hat and found peices of the piston rings along with coolant and oil inside the rotors. The intercooler has also been damaged a little but the blower is not locked up and looks ok. I plan on keeping my supporting mods, forge the LSA, and go with a slightly bigger blower on pump 93.
I would also recommend if your finances will allow to have the long block assembled in the states and shipped to you. This is the second failure of hard parts. Let me know if there is anyway I can help. I do have a 1.9l on my bench that has never been molested with a brand new IC core and new lid.
Go to the image on the FB page and Right Click on it. Select Properties and highlight & copy the address URL. It will end in .jpg. Then paste the address URL into the Insert Image dialog box instead of the FB URL you used previously.
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