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Discussion Starter #1
Maybe I reached that limit who knows? Last night after a WOT blast in 4th gear, the car stalled when I let off. I pulled over and it wouldn't turn. It literally just clicked once but wouldn't budge. I checked my oil right away and noticed smoke in the dip stick.....no shavings and oil level is normal. I then took the oil cap off and saw more smoke along with a STRONG smell of gasoline. Not sure what this means but I'm thinking one of my pistons gave.

I got the car towed home and headed right to work so haven't had a chance to survey anything as of yet. I will try to rent a bore scope to look into the block and check the plugs. No noises, no warnings, no nothing. It just gave out after I let off the throttle. Sadly, I was not logging at the time even though I had HP tuners hooked up and ready to go :(. Just a misfire code.

Its probably another rebuild. As far as far as forged rotating assembly, does anyone know which route I should plan for in the case that the block is usable? This has really bummed me and being in England, my choices are slim.
 

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That sucks, how much power were you making with that setup, and was it tuned well? Did you happen to notice your oil pressure before the motor locked?
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
I doubt tuning was an issue always ran strong. No but my oil pressure was always high 40s-50s (WOT) for the last year. Seems well lubricated. Only tell tale is the smell of gasoline in it.
 

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my #8 cylinder gave way a year ago, added dual wideband to new forged motor to find out passenger side of engine runs leaner than driver side so its critical calculate the difference in tune. If cylinder gave way let us know what cylinder
 

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Tuning is the #1 reason for failure, ran strong doesn't mean ran safe.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
My wideband is hooked up to the passenger side collector. When I get the car back on the road, I will likely be running a dual setup JUST in case. Anyways, pending on the damage, most of my factory supercharger parts will be up for sale. I am really debating keeping the car down for a while and going TT. Might even post up a feeler thread for:

Ported blower & snout
KDI Heat Exchanger
Kooks Headers and X-pipe
Corsa Touring axleback
W4M intake
IW balancer & 10"pulley
Metco Idler pullies
TS19 Cam
 

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man, your car wont start and you smell gas so you assume it's smoked and needs a rebuild. That means everything I own is blown up. Lol ;) Good luck either way!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
^^^ I forgot to add there were small metal chunks in the muffler tips...Maybe this weekend we'll know for sure when opened.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Sucks guys but you gotta try to look at things in positive light. Hopefully I can save the block maybe the cylinder bores are scratched. Would re-sleevinng be an issue if I run more power? I keep hearing mixed results. I wouldn't mind getting the right block but getting it overseas=$$$rape$$$.
 

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Funny, I posted a few weeks ago a thread concerning different AFR from bank1 to bank2. In my case, I see the opposite, my driver side is leaner by 7% (no question). Your post make me think that each v should be checked to insure the wideband is correctly mounted on the leaner side for proper tune. I my case if I would of mounted my wideband in the passenger side, I believe I also would be posting an engine failure thread, but again I am very conservative with my tune. I suspect (my opinion only) the bigger the upgrade the more difference between bank1 to bank2. I am running about to same upgrades as you, and always suspected the engine failure posted on this site were due to the variation of AFR between banks.
In a week or so, I will be checking the AFR on my buddies v, he has the same upgrades as I, it will be interesting to see which side is leaner

Thanks for posting
 

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Funny, I posted a few weeks ago a thread concerning different AFR from bank1 to bank2. In my case, I see the opposite, my driver side is leaner by 7% (no question). Your post make me think that each v should be checked to insure the wideband is correctly mounted on the leaner side for proper tune. I my case if I would of mounted my wideband in the passenger side, I believe I also would be posting an engine failure thread, but again I am very conservative with my tune. I suspect (my opinion only) the bigger the upgrade the more difference between bank1 to bank2. I am running about to same upgrades as you, and always suspected the engine failure posted on this site were due to the variation of AFR between banks.
In a week or so, I will be checking the AFR on my buddies v, he has the same upgrades as I, it will be interesting to see which side is leaner

Thanks for posting
What exhaust system/headers are you using ?
 

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Sucks guys but you gotta try to look at things in positive light. Hopefully I can save the block maybe the cylinder bores are scratched. Would re-sleevinng be an issue if I run more power? I keep hearing mixed results. I wouldn't mind getting the right block but getting it overseas=$$$rape$$$.
Mini me i feel for you. Please let us know what cylinder failed, Furthermore, I will not run any other AfR wideband other than NGK AFX. According to my research the NGK wideband is one of the best (accurate) low budget wideband available. I currently mounted my NGK wideband near the driver pillar (looks good), I get first hand AFR information during any WOT pulls I do. The NGK AFX display is small enough so does not take much space. I had to built a pedestal out of Styrofoam (painted it black). I will post some pics of the installation later
 

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That really sucks to hear about, I hope you get it all straightened out quickly and back on the road. Oh and BTW, if you ship to the US [east coast] I would be interested in taking those headers and x-pipe off your hands. I'm looking for a new setup. Thank you.
 
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