Cadillac CTS-V Forum banner
1 - 17 of 17 Posts

·
Banned
Joined
·
20 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2009 CTS-V auto. Today, when disengaging my parking brake the dash illuminated with a Service Parking Brake warning, and Press Brake to Disengage. Pressing the brake and reattempting to press the release button didn't change anything. The brakes are not engaged because I can drive with no issues and the car rolls easily in neutral.

The problem is the car still thinks they are engaged. When I drive it continuously chimes and I cannot make it stop. Of course this happens on a work trip with no free time and 250 miles from home.

Does anyone know of a way to disable the interior chime? I've tried all of the manual brake release procedures I can find. Any ideas would be great, I am going to go insane listening to that for 4 hours in the car.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
301 Posts
Have you tried disconnecting the battery and letting it sit for 5 minutes then reconnecting? The old off and on trick...otherwise, i recently replaced the electronic parking switch after it got wet from steam cleaning. It wasnt that hard to replace. Maybe you could pop that out and plug it back in to see if it remedies the issue. Good luck
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
515 Posts
Pull the rear tires and rotors. Clean and adjust the electric parking brake cables and actuators. then lubricate them and adjust so there is a little slack. That should allow the switch to turn off the light. The V2 really has a cheap way of making the parking brake electric. It uses an actuator bolted to the subframe and cables that extend to each wheel. On my Audi the calipers are equipped with screw jacks that actuate to apply the parking brake. I think the cables are sticking. You will see the screw mechanism on the cable, up by the actuator, that allows you to tighten or loosen the cable. It is easy to adjust but the area is tight for access.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,810 Posts
If the cables were sticking the brakes would be dragging. The actuator exerts a fairly strong force when pulling the cable to set the brake, but it's just springs to release the brakes because you can't push a cable much better than you could push a rope. But there is a switch that tells the BCM if the e-brakes are actuated or released. That's my guess as to where the problem is. That switch is sticky or has failed. The actuator released the brakes and the switch says they're still actuated...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,481 Posts
I have a 2009 CTS-V auto. Today, when disengaging my parking brake the dash illuminated with a Service Parking Brake warning, and Press Brake to Disengage. Pressing the brake and reattempting to press the release button didn't change anything. The brakes are not engaged because I can drive with no issues and the car rolls easily in neutral.

The problem is the car still thinks they are engaged. When I drive it continuously chimes and I cannot make it stop. Of course this happens on a work trip with no free time and 250 miles from home.

Does anyone know of a way to disable the interior chime? I've tried all of the manual brake release procedures I can find. Any ideas would be great, I am going to go insane listening to that for 4 hours in the car.
There is a parking brake reset process that you can do. It has you hold the button and and a couple other things to supposedly reset the parking brake module. google or on here somewhere for directions..
Found it.. Park Brake not Holding
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
20 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Pull the rear tires and rotors. Clean and adjust the electric parking brake cables and actuators. then lubricate them and adjust so there is a little slack. That should allow the switch to turn off the light. The V2 really has a cheap way of making the parking brake electric. It uses an actuator bolted to the subframe and cables that extend to each wheel. On my Audi the calipers are equipped with screw jacks that actuate to apply the parking brake. I think the cables are sticking. You will see the screw mechanism on the cable, up by the actuator, that allows you to tighten or loosen the cable. It is easy to adjust but the area is tight for access.
Thanks for this tip. I got the car up this weekend and looked around. That actuator is really tight in there! I didn't find anything obvious, I had to leave for another trip, so I'll pick up when I return home. Is the screw mechanism where the cables cross left/right above the axles or more towards the actuator. I looked and couldn't find anything that seemed adjustable. Am I looking for knurling/flats/hex? Just curious what I should be looking for.

Thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
515 Posts
Jack it up and check the actuation on application and release. take the wheels off and while in neutral spin the rotor released and then applied. If the car does not roll when applied you are good to go. If the car rolls you have to get behind and under the screw the cable adjusters. I used pliers on mine as they are getting old since I have a 2013.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
515 Posts
Damn, I got back under there and the screw that I was adjusting was tightening it but was really unscrewing the cable. Stick with the drum brake adjustment I tightened mine back up and adjusted the brakes inside rotor drum.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
20 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Understood on the drum adjusters on the inside. I can try those. I'm thinking I have a more major fault because I didn't even hear the actuator attempt to move. I'll connect my tech2 clone and see if it can help with the switch diagnosis.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
515 Posts
I have a lift and it made it easy to see that the end I adjusted actually was unscrewing the cable sheath from the actuator. it did tighten the parking brake shoes but made the connection loose. Just do the adjustment from the inside like you would do when adjusting drum brakes. My bad... But, I figured it out and got my cables tight again.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
515 Posts
I have a Thinkcar that has the ability to actuate the brakes remotely and then you can hear them when they apply. The Autel Maxidas also does remote actuation. Let me know about the Tech II clone as I just got mine up and running on a Chevy SS we are working on. Reloaded the modules but have not dug into all the features. It could be that the switch is defective.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
20 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Thanks again. Hoping I don't have to drop the subframe for that actuator install. I have a lift too so it shouldn't be too bad. At the moment...I'm trying to keep appearing simple so my wife doesn't keep giving me grief on the V :). Her MR-S, 370z were all 0 maintenance over the entire ownership. The price we pay for torque....
 
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top