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Looks like there is room for switches at the top if someone wanted that option as well

You would need to either have a remote cal dial or put a plate below tbe opening so you can slide out the afr500 to access the cal dial thats on the back. Looks like it would fit better then what i did. Does yours still have the door or does it delete it?
 

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This is a bolt in replacement for the cubby/door assembly and is finished in suedetex material like the factory piece. Attached is a picture of a custom piece that shows the finish of the panel.

The nice thing about my mount is just a few screws and you can take it back to stock.

 

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Thanks for the write up. I did mine through the passenger fender about a month ago. No water in cabin so far.
 

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You would need to either have a remote cal dial or put a plate below tbe opening so you can slide out the afr500 to access the cal dial thats on the back. Looks like it would fit better then what i did. Does yours still have the door or does it delete it?
You could still slide it out
 

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You could still slide it out
I would suggest making a bracket to add to the bottom and back. Otherwise there is no way to support it and it would just fall through. It doesnt have a lip like a conventional gauge so i dont see a way it would stay in place...although you may have figured this out already.
 

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I don't really have one in my hand but I would suggest something like Velcro on the bottom so it could be pulled out if you need to get to the knobs/switches
 

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Just to add to this In case anyone else does it. I followed the main instructions minus using a hanger and i ran the whole cable from the engine bay into the passenger seat footwell in 2 minutes without a hanger. Its SUPER easy so if your delaying it for any reason dont cause its stupid how easy it is
 
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Could the o2 sensor be mounted to the passenger side primary cat on aftermarket headers?
It's my understanding before the cat not ON.
 
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This thread helped tremendously this last weekend installing mine. I took my sweet time and still got all the wires pulled and everything installed in like an hour and a half.
The worst part was probably unclipping the connector for the stock rear O2 sensor on the back of the engine.


Like others said unfortunately the new AFR500 box is a bit wider so it doesn't fit in the ash tray area.
One of those custom mounts might be nice, having it in the glovebox is kinda annoying.

Also, the analog output wires for the new box seem to be waaay shorter than in OP's pics Wiring it up to HPtuners they have to be like right next to each other (about 10" of wire only).
 

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Bumping this as it was extremely helpful in routing my aeroforce wideband setup. Wanted to mention a couple things in case someone does try to use this for the aeroforce wideband install though.

Leave the little power box thing in the passenger footwell, and run the power cable (red, white, Black, Orange) through that grommet like random said, and then make sure the wires go in front (towards front of car) of both hinges. Otherwise, they may get pinched. The rubber weatherstrip behind the fender actually has two big gaps in it. I just threaded this cable then through the lower gap and was able to grab it on the other side. No hanger needed, although I do have pretty small hands.

For the sensor cable, because it has a rather large connector on the sensor side, I actually found it easier to start from the engine bay side, thread the box-connection side of the wire through the same gap in the weather strip, again make sure the wire stays in front of the two hinges, then poke it through the grommet as well and into the footwell of the car.

I put the box as close to the grommet as possible as it seemed the power cable was going to need as much length on the engine bay side as possible. There is more than enough cable that goes from the gauge to the box, so this was easy.

Then zip tied the cable from the gauge to the box underneath the glovebox, as there are a few gaps in the plastic under there that you can thread a zip tie through.

Hope this helps someone in the future. If you’re relatively decent at this stuff though you can pretty much figure it all out on your own with just randoms main post.
 

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I cross-posted this from the Tuning section, after thinking about it I figure it might be more helpful in this subforum. Thanks to the Forum and many prior threads (Snuzuluz, Larry, Karch, etc), here's my experience in what turned out to be a straightforward install:

1. I am going to mount the AFR box in the cigarette lighter cubby (picture coming). However, the hard part is running the pigtail through the firewall to the engine bay, where the sensor and power connections go. You could run ground back to the battery via interior panels but I chose to avoid this. I also feel this method is easily reversible (as easy as snipping zip ties), because nothing needs to be removed, spliced, siliconed or disassembled.


2. There is an unused rubber grommet in the passenger door hinge area that provides easy access to the glove box and passenger compartment, as well as the engine bay: pry out the grommet with a screw driver, cut it and fish the control box connector through it (that will be inside the car in the glove box, etc). You will need to pull back the carpet and padding in this area, prying off one plastic harness connector to gain access. Again, plenty of room to run the standard AFR harness anywhere you want to go.

Look closely, the grommet is already back in place with my harness poking through it


Inside of the passenger compartment - carpet pulls back easily

3. Tape the 02 sensor connector and the power/ground terminals to a coat hanger. If you look between the door and chassis, there is a rubber weatherstripping that easily moves to the side - fish your coat hanger through there just below the upper door hinge, orientated north. You will pop out just beneath the hood hinge, inside the front fender near where a Noral icebox would sit. There is plenty of room and no need to cut or disassemble any connectors! You will also have plenty of room with a NorCal box installed, as the hanger will "pop out" above the inner fender bracing. There is no interference from the door, either.


coat hanger pointing towards the engine bay - there's quite a bit of room behind that plastic weatherstripping!

I duct-taped everything to the coat hanger, leaving the large connector to dangle for easy maneuvering.

Coat hanger popping out into the engine bay, ready to be pulled through

O2 sensor harness dropping down past the ECM, next to the transmission and passenger exhaust. The power/ground portion of the harness is tucked under the fender and not visible. use plenty of zip ties to keep the 02 sensor harness from eventually dropping down onto the exhaust!

4. From here, it is easy to run your power and ground to the fuse box in the engine bay (which can stay tucked under the front fender), and the large grounding cable that runs directly to the battery. I used plenty of dielectric grease and an add-a-circuit to do this for the +12V. I did not have to cut, splice or lengthen any part of the wideband harness other than the +12v lead to the add-a-ciruit. For the negative ground, I chose the easy way and again used plenty of dielectric grease: I backed out the chassis grounding bolt (to the big fucking black cable next to the fuse box) just enough to wedge the grounding connector in between the washer, then tightened it back down. Super easy.

The switched power source, add-a-circuit and ground:


Again, the 02 sensor cable falls down right on top of the passenger side exhaust - I used zip ties to secure it to the existing transmission wiring harness keeping it out of harms way. There is probably another 5-6 feet of harness left over, that will be coiled up and tucked away inside the footwell of the passenger compartment.

Remember - DISCONNECT THE NEGATIVE TERMINAL AT THE BATTERY in the rear of the car before touching ANY wiring!

Display fits perfectly in the cigarette cubby. Plenty of room to run wires and tuck them out of the way in the passenger area behind the glove box. I cut a small square in the back of the console display to run the harness plug through. Use a Dremel - it's obvious once you pull the console out, but remove just enough for the plug to fit as your control unit will rest on the rear wall of the cubby. Harness is easily routed by hand from passenger area to center stack and you can leave enough slack in the harness to facilitate removal from the front if desired. FWIW I left the display / control unit loose in the cigarette cubby, and have never noticed it bouncing around or making noise since the inside of the cubby has a suede-like finish.

For driving:


Cover closed:


Wideband harness out - can also be quickly tucked behind the console near the passenger footwell or underneath the carpet for a clean look when not datalogging.


That's it!
Random, So pulling this thread back out.. I have a Aeroforce wideband and plan on getting the Interceptor gauge to go with it. I have HPT but Not the Pro, do you or anyone know if I'll still be able to log A/F Ratio? Does the AF gauge piggy back in the OBD so I can still plug in the HPT? Thanks!

Bumping this as it was extremely helpful in routing my aeroforce wideband setup. Wanted to mention a couple things in case someone does try to use this for the aeroforce wideband install though.

Leave the little power box thing in the passenger footwell, and run the power cable (red, white, Black, Orange) through that grommet like random said, and then make sure the wires go in front (towards front of car) of both hinges. Otherwise, they may get pinched. The rubber weatherstrip behind the fender actually has two big gaps in it. I just threaded this cable then through the lower gap and was able to grab it on the other side. No hanger needed, although I do have pretty small hands.

For the sensor cable, because it has a rather large connector on the sensor side, I actually found it easier to start from the engine bay side, thread the box-connection side of the wire through the same gap in the weather strip, again make sure the wire stays in front of the two hinges, then poke it through the grommet as well and into the footwell of the car.

I put the box as close to the grommet as possible as it seemed the power cable was going to need as much length on the engine bay side as possible. There is more than enough cable that goes from the gauge to the box, so this was easy.

Then zip tied the cable from the gauge to the box underneath the glovebox, as there are a few gaps in the plastic under there that you can thread a zip tie through.

Hope this helps someone in the future. If you’re relatively decent at this stuff though you can pretty much figure it all out on your own with just randoms main post.
Great install, but has anyone been able to install the round Aeroforce gauge in the ashtray and still close the cover? I really really don't wish to pull the clock, but will over having the ashtray cover removed/open. Thanks!
 

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Good write up. Looking to do my wide band soon. Question on the power and ground. Does this write up have the power on at all times going straight to the power at the fuse box? Or I see in the one photo of the fuse box that it sort of goes to the spare fuse in the fuse box. I want to be sure that I’m routing the power to the correct location. Thanks


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Good write up. Looking to do my wide band soon. Question on the power and ground. Does this write up have the power on at all times going straight to the power at the fuse box? Or I see in the one photo of the fuse box that it sort of goes to the spare fuse in the fuse box. I want to be sure that I’m routing the power to the correct location. Thanks


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The spare fuse is keyed to the ignition.


ETA: kick ass wagon post!


 

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Great. What size fuse did you use for this location? 10?15?


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