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I cross-posted this from the Tuning section, after thinking about it I figure it might be more helpful in this subforum. Thanks to the Forum and many prior threads (Snuzuluz, Larry, Karch, etc), here's my experience in what turned out to be a straightforward install:
1. I am going to mount the AFR box in the cigarette lighter cubby (picture coming). However, the hard part is running the pigtail through the firewall to the engine bay, where the sensor and power connections go. You could run ground back to the battery via interior panels but I chose to avoid this. I also feel this method is easily reversible (as easy as snipping zip ties), because nothing needs to be removed, spliced, siliconed or disassembled.
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2. There is an unused rubber grommet in the passenger door hinge area that provides easy access to the glove box and passenger compartment, as well as the engine bay: pry out the grommet with a screw driver, cut it and fish the control box connector through it (that will be inside the car in the glove box, etc). You will need to pull back the carpet and padding in this area, prying off one plastic harness connector to gain access. Again, plenty of room to run the standard AFR harness anywhere you want to go.
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Look closely, the grommet is already back in place with my harness poking through it
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Inside of the passenger compartment - carpet pulls back easily
3. Tape the 02 sensor connector and the power/ground terminals to a coat hanger. If you look between the door and chassis, there is a rubber weatherstripping that easily moves to the side - fish your coat hanger through there just below the upper door hinge, orientated north. You will pop out just beneath the hood hinge, inside the front fender near where a Noral icebox would sit. There is plenty of room and no need to cut or disassemble any connectors! You will also have plenty of room with a NorCal box installed, as the hanger will "pop out" above the inner fender bracing. There is no interference from the door, either.
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coat hanger pointing towards the engine bay - there's quite a bit of room behind that plastic weatherstripping!
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I duct-taped everything to the coat hanger, leaving the large connector to dangle for easy maneuvering.
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Coat hanger popping out into the engine bay, ready to be pulled through
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O2 sensor harness dropping down past the ECM, next to the transmission and passenger exhaust. The power/ground portion of the harness is tucked under the fender and not visible. use plenty of zip ties to keep the 02 sensor harness from eventually dropping down onto the exhaust!
4. From here, it is easy to run your power and ground to the fuse box in the engine bay (which can stay tucked under the front fender), and the large grounding cable that runs directly to the battery. I used plenty of dielectric grease and an add-a-circuit to do this for the +12V. I did not have to cut, splice or lengthen any part of the wideband harness other than the +12v lead to the add-a-ciruit. For the negative ground, I chose the easy way and again used plenty of dielectric grease: I backed out the chassis grounding bolt (to the big fucking black cable next to the fuse box) just enough to wedge the grounding connector in between the washer, then tightened it back down. Super easy.
The switched power source, add-a-circuit and ground:
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Again, the 02 sensor cable falls down right on top of the passenger side exhaust - I used zip ties to secure it to the existing transmission wiring harness keeping it out of harms way. There is probably another 5-6 feet of harness left over, that will be coiled up and tucked away inside the footwell of the passenger compartment.
Remember - DISCONNECT THE NEGATIVE TERMINAL AT THE BATTERY in the rear of the car before touching ANY wiring!
Display fits perfectly in the cigarette cubby. Plenty of room to run wires and tuck them out of the way in the passenger area behind the glove box. I cut a small square in the back of the console display to run the harness plug through. Use a Dremel - it's obvious once you pull the console out, but remove just enough for the plug to fit as your control unit will rest on the rear wall of the cubby. Harness is easily routed by hand from passenger area to center stack and you can leave enough slack in the harness to facilitate removal from the front if desired. FWIW I left the display / control unit loose in the cigarette cubby, and have never noticed it bouncing around or making noise since the inside of the cubby has a suede-like finish.
For driving:
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Cover closed:
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Wideband harness out - can also be quickly tucked behind the console near the passenger footwell or underneath the carpet for a clean look when not datalogging.
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That's it!
1. I am going to mount the AFR box in the cigarette lighter cubby (picture coming). However, the hard part is running the pigtail through the firewall to the engine bay, where the sensor and power connections go. You could run ground back to the battery via interior panels but I chose to avoid this. I also feel this method is easily reversible (as easy as snipping zip ties), because nothing needs to be removed, spliced, siliconed or disassembled.
2. There is an unused rubber grommet in the passenger door hinge area that provides easy access to the glove box and passenger compartment, as well as the engine bay: pry out the grommet with a screw driver, cut it and fish the control box connector through it (that will be inside the car in the glove box, etc). You will need to pull back the carpet and padding in this area, prying off one plastic harness connector to gain access. Again, plenty of room to run the standard AFR harness anywhere you want to go.
Look closely, the grommet is already back in place with my harness poking through it
Inside of the passenger compartment - carpet pulls back easily
3. Tape the 02 sensor connector and the power/ground terminals to a coat hanger. If you look between the door and chassis, there is a rubber weatherstripping that easily moves to the side - fish your coat hanger through there just below the upper door hinge, orientated north. You will pop out just beneath the hood hinge, inside the front fender near where a Noral icebox would sit. There is plenty of room and no need to cut or disassemble any connectors! You will also have plenty of room with a NorCal box installed, as the hanger will "pop out" above the inner fender bracing. There is no interference from the door, either.
coat hanger pointing towards the engine bay - there's quite a bit of room behind that plastic weatherstripping!
I duct-taped everything to the coat hanger, leaving the large connector to dangle for easy maneuvering.
Coat hanger popping out into the engine bay, ready to be pulled through
O2 sensor harness dropping down past the ECM, next to the transmission and passenger exhaust. The power/ground portion of the harness is tucked under the fender and not visible. use plenty of zip ties to keep the 02 sensor harness from eventually dropping down onto the exhaust!
4. From here, it is easy to run your power and ground to the fuse box in the engine bay (which can stay tucked under the front fender), and the large grounding cable that runs directly to the battery. I used plenty of dielectric grease and an add-a-circuit to do this for the +12V. I did not have to cut, splice or lengthen any part of the wideband harness other than the +12v lead to the add-a-ciruit. For the negative ground, I chose the easy way and again used plenty of dielectric grease: I backed out the chassis grounding bolt (to the big fucking black cable next to the fuse box) just enough to wedge the grounding connector in between the washer, then tightened it back down. Super easy.
The switched power source, add-a-circuit and ground:
Again, the 02 sensor cable falls down right on top of the passenger side exhaust - I used zip ties to secure it to the existing transmission wiring harness keeping it out of harms way. There is probably another 5-6 feet of harness left over, that will be coiled up and tucked away inside the footwell of the passenger compartment.
Remember - DISCONNECT THE NEGATIVE TERMINAL AT THE BATTERY in the rear of the car before touching ANY wiring!
Display fits perfectly in the cigarette cubby. Plenty of room to run wires and tuck them out of the way in the passenger area behind the glove box. I cut a small square in the back of the console display to run the harness plug through. Use a Dremel - it's obvious once you pull the console out, but remove just enough for the plug to fit as your control unit will rest on the rear wall of the cubby. Harness is easily routed by hand from passenger area to center stack and you can leave enough slack in the harness to facilitate removal from the front if desired. FWIW I left the display / control unit loose in the cigarette cubby, and have never noticed it bouncing around or making noise since the inside of the cubby has a suede-like finish.
For driving:
Cover closed:
Wideband harness out - can also be quickly tucked behind the console near the passenger footwell or underneath the carpet for a clean look when not datalogging.
That's it!
