Forgive my ignorance, and I DID watch the youtube video, but once I have the soda bottle and 3/4 hose connected to that shrader valve what do I do? I assume fill the bottle with dexcool and use a screwdriver or similar to depress the pin in the valve and hold it a while until no bubble come out? The youtube video said they let it bleed for hours sometimes, but I dont see how thats possible, unless you sit there depressing the valve. Also is IAT3 (or whatever post IC IAT is) a readable oem PID with a OBD2 tool?
Dyno tuned
Well got my mods in and had my 2018 V dyno tuned. Mods are momentum CAI, 2.3" pulley, 87mm throttle.body, ZL1 supercharger instead of the Caddy one, DSX bullet lid. It was a dyno jet and hp I think seemed low but torque was really good 532hp @ 5900rpm, 636lb ft @ 3200 rpm. Now to run gas low so they can do the E85 tune. I am happy how it runs though so far
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Essentially yes but I'd just buy this and be done - LT4 SC Coolant Filler Adapter Tool. The tool will depress the valve and you just need to make sure its sitting straight and you have fluid in the water/soda bottle. I like to squeeze the soft lines occasionally when doing this. After 20 mins or so, I was surprised how much air came out and fluid it took. I would characterize it as microbubbles consistently coming out.
Thanks. Does it matter if the engine is hot or cold when I do this?Essentially yes but I'd just buy this and be done - LT4 SC Coolant Filler Adapter Tool. The tool will depress the valve and you just need to make sure its sitting straight and you have fluid in the water/soda bottle. I like to squeeze the soft lines occasionally when doing this. After 20 mins or so, I was surprised how much air came out and fluid it took. I would characterize it as microbubbles consistently coming out.
id say more times than not the LT4/LF4 cars Ive tuned need to be bleed, main issue is the pump will cut off if theres an air pocket, lot of cars down on power a lot because of this. Theres no dumby light and 99% of dealers wont even recognize it as an issue, hell 95% of them seem unaware theres 2 seperate cooling systems on these gen V boosted cars
The old 470whp LT4 baseline strikes again....lol
If I install a tank like the DMS or Cordes tank in theory it should be self bleeding right?
You’ll still need to bleed it initially to my knowledge but once it’s bled it should be good as long as the tank doesn’t get drained and the pump sucks air. I’d wait for Matt to reply though to verify my half knowledge
Inam installing the triple hx upgrade, DMS engine bay IC tank and I talked to Bremt at Weapon X and he said to run E85 I need low side fuel kit.
Yeah I know it needs bled initially. I wonder if you can do it like a coolant system. I have a kit where you plug up the coolant reservoir, suck a vacuum and when you release the vacuum it sucks coolant in. Not sure though if you can suck a vacuum past the pump though, not sure what kind of pump it is
Do you guys do the vacuum/refill method or fill and burp like @BlackbirdWS6 mentioned?This is good advice. We have had many LT4 cars come in and need to be bled for a tune, even some that were 100% untouched from the factory.
I've used this and it get's the job done but there are a couple of issues. First, the o-ring that comes with it isn't thick enough to hold it on properly and it leaks while filling. The second issue is preventing coolant dumping all over your motor when done and more importantly the serpentine belts. I put on a thicker o-ring which solved the first problem and then bought a cheap fluid transfer pump to get the majority of the coolant out of the bottle before removing the setup.Before you go crazy, make sure the coolant for the blower is bled properly. I assume it is but its easy enough to do on your own with a dedicated motorsports 3d printed part and a water bottle.
Since you mentioned using the dedicated motorsports tool. Nobody here should ever make the mistake that I did buying the filler tool from Synergy Motorsports. It only fits on C7 Corvettes which has a different fill fitting. I bought it because it was listed on their CTS-V3 catalog page and found out after it was delivered that when you click through to the actual tool product page, there are no details on which cars it works on. A detail oversight on my part and should have contacted them first but it shouldn't be in the CTSV catalog to start with.
I watched a video of a guy showing how to do the bleed on a ZL1 Camaro, he didn't reference this piece but did say he used a zip tie to snug the o-ring he was using to the opening. He also said he bled with the car on an incline to drive the fluid towards the valve. Bleeding for the 4+ hours he claims to have seems excessive, but he picked up some solid gains at COTA. I need to get on this already.I've used this and it get's the job done but there are a couple of issues. First, the o-ring that comes with it isn't thick enough to hold it on properly and it leaks while filling. The second issue is preventing coolant dumping all over your motor when done and more importantly the serpentine belts. I put on a thicker o-ring which solved the first problem and then bought a cheap fluid transfer pump to get the majority of the coolant out of the bottle before removing the setup.
You can do it when cold and through the process everything will get hot. Again, I did this for about 20ish+ mins with the front end on ramps, squeezing the lines every now and again. I would monitor the water level as a curiosity of how much it took. A shop that did some tuning/install work for me said they had it bled well given I wasn't thrilled with numbers post mod (was good on baseline) and looking for some answers. Bled it on my own at home, went back and magically the car picked up more power with no tuning changes. The temps were a bit better managed so he could get a little more aggressive with the power.Thanks. Does it matter if the engine is hot or cold when I do this?
depends, some cars seem to have better low side than others, some seem weak for no reason,its not a bad idea to do the low side kit at all, but with your pretty mild mod sheet id expect to still be able to get away with E30-E40 range with the stock setup assuming you dont have an abnormally weak low side.Inam installing the triple hx upgrade, DMS engine bay IC tank and I talked to Bremt at Weapon X and he said to run E85 I need low side fuel kit.
Yeah I am not racing or making a hp monster jut wanna run e85 when I feel like it. Illndo a low side little bit later, have it tuned for e85 and call it a day.
Depends if and what parts are being changed. We just do what is needed to get the air out.Do you guys do the vacuum/refill method or fill and burp like @BlackbirdWS6 mentioned?
IME the V3s have the worst look side of the LT4 cars and pretty much always need a low side while ZL1s and C7s may not on a stock pulley. The V3 also has the most restrictive exhaust stock of those three too.depends, some cars seem to have better low side than others, some seem weak for no reason,its not a bad idea to do the low side kit at all, but with your pretty mild mod sheet id expect to still be able to get away with E30-E40 range with the stock setup assuming you dont have an abnormally weak low side.
Hope you got the coolant thing figured out. The toque on the graph looks very strange to me as usually it's a much more horizontal line
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It will be about 620-640whp similiar mods on mine but no pulleyInterested to see what it does on E!
I have the dedicated tool and works like a champ, and I had no leaks. There aren't instructions on it, but figured it out. The o ring included slips over the fill port and you have to move it down to a channel on fill port and o ring fits perfectly. Then simply push the tool over it. Simple. Don't know why you would need a zip tie or how that would even work. Run the pump with hp tuners scanner. I turned the pump on and off a few times and that helped jiggle the air out. Took like 30 minI watched a video of a guy showing how to do the bleed on a ZL1 Camaro, he didn't reference this piece but did say he used a zip tie to snug the o-ring he was using to the opening. He also said he bled with the car on an incline to drive the fluid towards the valve. Bleeding for the 4+ hours he claims to have seems excessive, but he picked up some solid gains at COTA. I need to get on this already.
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