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Discussion Starter #1
Ok, car is done and went on the dyno and get tuned. Car made 620 on pump 93, which I feel is off, tuner said my car IAT2 are getting to high and keeps pulling timing which is resulting to my car only making 620.
Is that true and normal “cooling problems” we get? I still figured my first pull would be more.
The shop said an ice box and Upgraded H/X pump will fix this problem.



Mods are
2.38/8.6 combo
Stage 3 cam with supports parts
Ported snout and TB
Upgraded H/X
ZL1 Lid with reinforced brick
FIC 1000
BAP
Flex fuel sensor
NEW ERA intake
Long tubes cattless x pipe



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King, maybe it the 2.38. I'm just shooting from the hip.
Hope you get it worked out all that money and you not happy with the end result.
I feel your pain brother.
 

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What pump is in the heat exchanger loop?

What heat exchanger? It's an aggressive pulley combo but not un heard of.

Dynos can be adjusted so I'd be curious what it runs on the track but if your tuner said its pulling timing something is going on.
 

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620 isn't "horrible" for your setup, but I would also expect it to be higher for the typical dynojet.


I see a heat exchanger on your list - but what about a varimax pump and removing the hard lines near the passenger side header? Also note that individual tuners have different ways of doing things that may, or may not, influence "your number."
 

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No reason to even run it at that temp, the tune is pulling so much timing the numbers are irrelevant.

Get your cooling up to the task or spray meth or back off the pulley ratio.


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Discussion Starter #9
Get your temps to drop 30-40* and it will be happier and make better peak numbers. We tuned a car with that same pulley combo last week and saw no more the 140* max
Will Icebox and upgraded HX pump do the trick?


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Discussion Starter #10
No reason to even run it at that temp, the tune is pulling so much timing the numbers are irrelevant.

Get your cooling up to the task or spray meth or back off the pulley ratio.


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Thinking of buying a ice box and upgraded HX pump.


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180* on your glory run? Perhaps she needs a good burping in addition to a new pump?
Agreed.

I got rid of the steel lines a while back replaced them with larger hoses. In doing so i didn't purge the system well enough and still had air. While driving on the freeway for several miles I noticed my IAT2 was in the 140's. On a properly purged system my IAT's are 10-15 degrees above ambient cruising on the freeway. In stop-n-go traffic they hit the 130's but then drop back down once I'm moving again. At WOT it varies depending of the distance but it ranges from the 120's to 140's. Once I purged the system correctly I began seeing the correct IAT's I was seeing prior to replacing the steel lines.

On a separate note I have a tank on my car but don't ice it on the dyno. I dyno the car the same way i use it on my Mexico trips. I leave the ice for the track.
 
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Will Icebox and upgraded HX pump do the trick?


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What it takes depends on your ambient temps but you have to start pulling timing somewhere. First thing I would do is bleed the HX system again and see if it gets better. I often have to do that on cars that come in for a tune.


The other problem I see is that when you do get temps down you will not have enough fuel for E85.
 

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180F is wayyyyyy to fucking hot.

You need to go up your cooling mods before doing any more sort of tuning let alone WOT hits.

What HX are you using? What size lids did you go too? What HX pump?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
180F is wayyyyyy to fucking hot.

You need to go up your cooling mods before doing any more sort of tuning let alone WOT hits.

What HX are you using? What size lids did you go too? What HX pump?
ZL1 Lid stock HX pump and Fluidyne HX, but the Fluidyne I bought back in 2012 so I wonder if I need to buy a new HX.


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A Varimax pump, removing the steel lines and replacing them with larger rubber hoses, a good bleed and an Aeroforce gauge to monitor the IAT2's and you should be good to go.

If you question the Fluidyne then take it to a radiator shop to have it pressure tested.

A HX reservoir is optional in my opinion. I would only use one for the track or mile events. Once you get it sorted out retune the car and should put down some much better numbers. Good luck.
 

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ZL1 Lid stock HX pump and Fluidyne HX, but the Fluidyne I bought back in 2012 so I wonder if I need to buy a new HX.


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Which Fluidyne HX? the small low mount one? I have that one but it is in series with the stock HX.

My pulley and mods are not as much as yours so much less heat being generated but I usually see max of 130-140 after long WOT and I have stock pump. I would def upgrade the pump though and if just the low mount HX you might want to look at the big track attack style HX there is a lot more surface area like the stock one but just better.
 
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