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Discussion Starter #1
I’m about to order some more radials, last season I ran the mickey Thompson s/s and they didn’t last near as long and had vibration issues, any size suggestions also would be good. I was thinking of running the radials on the stock 19s or z06 18s that I used for the the mickeys.


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Discussion Starter #3
Sub'd for suggestions too. OP is there a reason you do not plan on using 17s?
Not yet, I do plan on getting a set of forgestars but that’ll be a min, gonna do some other mods first lol


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Not yet, I do plan on getting a set of forgestars but that’ll be a min, gonna do some other mods first lol


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Ah ok. Just wasn't sure if there is a reason people avoid 17s as I thought they were the go to. Then again I am brand new so not entirely sure lol. They fit the stock brake set up right?
 

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Ah ok. Just wasn't sure if there is a reason people avoid 17s as I thought they were the go to. Then again I am brand new so not entirely sure lol. They fit the stock brake set up right?
The reason I do not (and like will not) get a 17" rear is cost. My car is not a track car, so it is hard to justify spending $1,500 to $2,000 for a set up of rear wheels that I may use once a year (if that). Especially when I can run radials on a stock sized wheel or a replica wheel. I spent $300 for a pair of 19x10 C6Z Spyder replicas several year ago, for the off chance I do ever go to the track, still haven't even got tires for them. Now that I have some Z/28 replicas, I may just use the stock rears for my radial set up.



To the OP, my car is not a daily driver...but if I buy a set of DRs for my extra wheels, I am looking at the NT05R. Result seem mostly positive for minor bolt to slightly bigger builds. They have reported pretty decent wear compared to the Mickeys and have pretty good (again for a DR) in the wet.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Ah ok. Just wasn't sure if there is a reason people avoid 17s as I thought they were the go to. Then again I am brand new so not entirely sure lol. They fit the stock brake set up right?
Yup they do, you can get 17inch welds that will clear too, not exactly sure which ones tho


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Discussion Starter #7
The reason I do not (and like will not) get a 17" rear is cost. My car is not a track car, so it is hard to justify spending $1,500 to $2,000 for a set up of rear wheels that I may use once a year (if that). Especially when I can run radials on a stock sized wheel or a replica wheel. I spent $300 for a pair of 19x10 C6Z Spyder replicas several year ago, for the off chance I do ever go to the track, still haven't even got tires for them. Now that I have some Z/28 replicas, I may just use the stock rears for my radial set up.



To the OP, my car is not a daily driver...but if I buy a set of DRs for my extra wheels, I am looking at the NT05R. Result seem mostly positive for minor bolt to slightly bigger builds. They have reported pretty decent wear compared to the Mickeys and have pretty good (again for a DR) in the wet.
Luckily I don’t drive mine in the rain, it’s a weekend warrior for the most part, but I’m with you on the buying a set of wheels for strictly racing, I got c6 z reps and they were about 120$ a pop can’t go wrong. Lol


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Luckily I don’t drive mine in the rain, it’s a weekend warrior for the most part, but I’m with you on the buying a set of wheels for strictly racing, I got c6 z reps and they were about 120$ a pop can’t go wrong. Lol


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I’ve heard a few people running the Hoosier drag radials, I think it was a 315/30-18


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Nitto NT05R could be worth a shot. You can get a pair for around $550. They offer around 90% of the performance of the Mickeys, but tend to last longer and are about $200 less expensive.

Edit: 325s work for the V coupe with a properly milled 10.5 to 11 inch rear wheel. But they don’t fit on the sedan or wagon without a wheel well adjustment, going wide body, or just letting the wheels/tires protrude out.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Nitto NT05R could be worth a shot. You can get a pair for around $550. They offer around 90% of the performance of the Mickeys, but tend to last longer and are about $200 less expensive.
Yeah I’ve heard they do pretty good, but the Hoosiers are also fairly cheap and do well. Most of the tracks around here are 1/8th mile, so I’d need a size that would be good for an 1/8th. The 305/35-18 MTs did pretty good, wondering if the ET Street Rs would be too tall or if the Hoosiers would be too short lol


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My opinion is NT05R’s are junk on the street.

It’s too bad the MT ET2’s are discontinued, hooked much better than nitto and lasted twice the mileage in street conditions.


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I have gone a bunch of 10.5x passes and a 10.4x pass on a set of 305/35R 18 Nitto 555R's. They wear great and are the best of the Drag Radials in the rain.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I have gone a bunch of 10.5x passes and a 10.4x pass on a set of 305/35R 18 Nitto 555R's. They wear great and are the best of the Drag Radials in the rain.
I haven’t heard much about those. Mines fairly stock anything radial will pretty much dead hook, just not street tires lol


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On other cars I've had good luck with nitto radials for mostly street miles and a bit of track work, and they last prob the longest out of DR's, I've ran them all year long in rain and snow, you'll be pushing the car in snow though... ask me how I know lol
 

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Discussion Starter #15
On other cars I've had good luck with nitto radials for mostly street miles and a bit of track work, and they last prob the longest out of DR's, I've ran them all year long in rain and snow, you'll be pushing the car in snow though... ask me how I know lol
Im thinking NT05Rs. And I’m curious now. So you gotta tell me lol


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This was the 555R before they had the NT05s, If I were to do it now I would try the NT05Rs on a spare set of rims. I'm never really looking for a dead hook because I don't feel like picking up parts of my DD off the track.

The pushing was my old 5.0 in college on a date smh...
 

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Discussion Starter #17
This was the 555R before they had the NT05s, If I were to do it now I would try the NT05Rs on a spare set of rims. I'm never really looking for a dead hook because I don't feel like picking up parts of my DD off the track.

The pushing was my old 5.0 in college on a date smh...
Oh lord I bet that was fun lolol Ima give em a shot and see, haven’t really heard to many negatives on em, just need to be heated up a good bit more than M/Ts supposedly


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You can sell a 17" drag pack once you are done with it as long as you dont beat the shit out of the rims. Find a good used 17" setup if you want some good times. If your running 11's then stick with stock wheels. Thats my 2 cents.

Oh and beadlocks look pimp so I bought those even though I probably dont "need" them lol.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
You can sell a 17" drag pack once you are done with it as long as you dont beat the shit out of the rims. Find a good used 17" setup if you want some good times. If your running 11's then stick with stock wheels. Thats my 2 cents.

Oh and beadlocks look pimp so I bought those even though I probably dont "need" them lol.
I agree with the beadlocks lol


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This is my dilema right now...
I want traction, but would like minimal vibration at high speeds and a little handling in the rain. Enough not to die in the rain
 
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