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· I'm Your Pusher
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11,186 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Here are some of the suspension parts I had done that I keep meaning to list out here. This was what was on Heintz Racing's old V cutting low 1.3s the very first time out. No doubt it will go deeper.

1. Weld Racing 17"/15" kit - 17x4.5" fronts over OEM brakes ;) and a 28" tall tire so the front/rear are the same size and the weaponX spec 15" rear on the MT X275 DR which is tucked properly so you can max the camber for top of the wheel out in true drag racing form. Call for pricing and setup options.






2. BIG REAR SWAY - We have an upgraded rear sway bar to reduce wheel turning on launch. This will be an easy upgrade so you guys don't have to add a heavy front bar too or have it sit in the garage. Rear bar only will be $299.



3. TOE ROD BARS - Also, very beefy adjustable toe rod bars with urethane bushings vs. the thin factory ones with rubber which will also eliminate flex on the launch.

$549 shipped per pair with urethan bushings and painted black - available immediately



4. CONTROL S ARMS (FWD SIDE) - Lastly, the the highly sought after 15" wheel bars necessary to clear the OEM cradle bushings and tuck inside the wheels without hacking up the OEM bars hoping they don't break. These also have urethan bushings pressed in.

$549 shipped per pair with urethan bushings and painted black - available immediately



5. URETHANE CRADLE BUSHINGS - get rid of the flexing rubber $330 shipped



6. 15" KIT Complete - various staged options: https://weaponxmotorsports.myshopify.com/products/drag-brake-kit-for-15-weld-wheels





 

· I'm Your Pusher
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11,186 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Will the sway bar improve the launch on a V with just 19's dr's? Or this is just to complement the 15/17" setup?
Correct it will help any size wheel. The rear sway and also the thicker tow rods keep the wheels from turning/flexing slightly in the rear with the soft rubber bushings and thinner arms resulting in putting more to the tires and less lost due to the suspension flex.
 

· Premium Member
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7,140 Posts
Jeff Heintz. He lives near us, races out there all the time. Cool guy. Here is a video of us going at it last year prior to the 6.0 time slips posted. I got treed pretty bad when the starter used the pro tree instead of the usual bracket tree.

Nice! I remember he took over and bought out Nick Williams shop which Jamie took over years later. Car is rolling!
 

· I'm Your Pusher
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11,186 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Do the lca fit the stock spindles if we already have the wheels and brake kit?
No sorry in order to clear the knuckle properly without making it sketchy under there the knuckles have a pivot bushing in there and the LCAs have a solid bushing on the inside. I could have a set made so you could retain the brake ears if you wanted though. I use a different Weld PN than the rest of the 15s out there so the wheel tucks and cambers properly and to do that I run Wilwood brakes on mine. Forward arms are a must too really. Toe rods are the only thing not "required" but they're the weakest part of keeping the wheel straight.
 

· I'm Your Pusher
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11,186 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Is there a benifit using all 3 of the above with the 17inch rear combo
Or is this mainly for the 15s?
You would benefit from the beefed up toe rods to keep the wheels straight on the hit, but the forward bars and LCAs are for 15s.


A 9 second V picked up the last set this week that was in stock; however, I'm making more. A couple sets will leave the brake mounts to do your own brakes since a lot of you guys are wanting to run the more aggressive wheel with cheaper brakes.
 

· 9 Second Club
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2,594 Posts
Can I get the hardware needed to bring the back tires in so my 325/45/17 don't rub. I want to be able to ride around the streets with some meat underneath. Oh, yeah. Wagon wing. Lol
 
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