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DIY Stage 2 Build a Success

13198 Views 60 Replies 23 Participants Last post by  Black Moon
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My stage 2 build and tune finally came to completion this a couple of days ago after a successful tuning session with Dr. Phil.
I'd also like to thank Kent (Larry Arizona) for answering the numerous text messages throughout my install. It was nice meeting you at the dyno session.

I also used the Camaro5 writeup here to help me. It is a great resource. I had it up on my tablet while working on the car.
http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=125123

Another thing I did was use ziplock bags and labeled them. I put the bolts, nuts, ect in them and labeled the part they came from. Believe me you want to do this!

My build included adding a custom cam (from Dr. Phil), dual springs, push rods, 9.1 lower, Kooks Catted headers, ZL1 lid, and Norcal tank to my already installed Stage 1 Mods. Here are some pics and notes from the build process.


BEFORE


BUMPER COVER OFF


Track Attack Hex. It had to eventually come out in order to push the AC condenser down far enough to pull cam out. The track attack was much easier to remove and reinstall with the radiator out.


Radiator Removed. You MUST remove the fan assembly first unfortunately. I tried to cut corners and remove the assembly as a whole.
After wasting over and hour trying to "Hulk" it out, I conceded and took the fan assembly out. Even have that I had to get under the car and guide it past wire harnesses and such to get it out.
Also remember to remove transmission cooler lines and push other steel line out of the way.
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On the lift


SC removed and belt. Much more work space IMHO with the SC removed. Tape up the heads with Blue Masking Tape. Don't want to drop anything in there.
Also please use Blue tape, not the tan stuff. I used that on my V1 and had to use a razor to get that stuff off. Didn't peel off good at all



Coils, Plugs and wires removed for the purpose of removing the stock manifolds and installing the headers later.


Water pump removed. There are several bolts holding it. You also have to remove both of your idle pulleys and the bracket.
There is also a huge bolt going into the side of the SC Belt tension and then into the side of the water pump. I was pulling at the water pump and didn't realize this bolt was in the side of it.
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I have a manual, so I put the car in 4th gear. For Auto, I think you will need something to jam into the tranny section. 3 foot 1/2 drive Breaker bar. Balancer Bolt came out with a good one-arm row..lol. The socket is 24mm A/C belt removed also.


Cheapo Harbor Freight puller pictured could not cut it. The threads on it locked up. I then rented a 7-ton pull from the auto parts and the balancer came off like butter.


Balancer removed showing timing cover and crank snout.


Timing cover removed showing stock cam gear, oil pump and cam chain tensioner. I did not remove the oil pump or use a new chain and tensioner.
They looked to be in perfect condition. I also did not want to go through dropping the oil pan and dealing with the pickup tube hassle and o-ring worry



VALVE COVERS REMOVED. You can also see the stock cam gear


Cam Gear removed now exposing stock cam and cam retainer plate.


Cam gear removed, cam retaining plate removed and two dowel rods put into oil valleys to hold up lifters. Now pulling out stock cam.
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Cam valley



New Cam getting installed.


Cam retaining plate reinstalled. 3 Bolt Cam Gear installed. Make sure gear timing mark is at 6 o'clock and crank gear at 12 o'clock.
This part took longer than expected because I had to keep pulling the gear off and readjusting the chain on the teeth till the marks on the gear lined up correctly. This is a really important part of the install.



Stock Exhaust Removed. The former owner got rid of the crimped section and removed the secondary cats.


Time to get at the stock cats and manifolds. One bolt on the driver side cat was so tight that using my smaller breaker bar screwed the stud out instead of the bolt.
I was able to salvage the front O2 sensors, the rears would not budge. Fortunately I didn't need them.



Full height on the lift. Enough to sit on my stool and roll under. I'm 6'2" for reference.


Stock Cat and manifolds are off! Waiting for header to finish getting coated.
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Maybe if I do it myself I could use the money I save to buy me a fancy lift like yours. Looks awesome man. Keep going :)
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NOTE: I used the TDC (Top Dead Center) method to change the springs. It was super easy and better than the air hose method that others use. Just my opinion.




Valve cover removed. Stock rockers, springs, rocker arm.


Stock rocker and rocker arm removed now exposing stock pushrods and stock springs.


Got this tool from a local guy who sells these on ebay for $30. Worked perfectly for changing the springs.


Tool mounted on spring ready to push down. Make sure you wack the spring with a 17 deep socket to loosen the keepers first!



Stock spring removed exposing stock valve seal and seat. The stock seat and seal are one piece.


New Dual Springs, Titanium Seats and Retainers, and keepers.
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New seat and seal installed. Don't forget to install the seats! (Larry! Lol!) Use a 12mm deep socket to tap the new seal on. You'll know when it is completely seated by the sound and feel of the hammer.


NEW Dual Spring ready to go!


Titanium retainer placed on dual spring.



Springs installed!
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Awesome work & great job documenting your progression too. Very cool to see it step by step!
Awesome thread


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Kickass man! We have very similar builds only I cheated and paid a shop to do most of the work :)

What clutch ya gonna go with?
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Rockers and rocker arm reinstalled.



Timing cover reinstalled with new timing cover gasket and seal. IW balancer installed with Hawk Tool. Took no more than 3 minutes! Great tool!
A/C belt also reinstalled. Be sure to bolt bottom cam sensor bracket before installing damper. Tell me how I know this.
You can then just move the bracket out of the way and put the A/C behind the balancer and walk it on.


.
Black ceramic coated Kooks headers! Coated by Custom Concepts Coating in Detroit. Bought the header used, but they look brand spanking new now!



Headers installed. Much more room to bolt them up with valve covers off.
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Another shot of header and catted exhaust to stock mufflers.


Another shot


Okay, last shot. I promise.


Okay, just one more. ;)
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Very nice! Who did the coating on your headers?
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Water pump, Radiator, AC Condenser and Track Attack reinstalled.


Lower pulley and accessory belt reinstalled.


New location for my Moroso because of the Norcal tank. Thanks Larry!




Hoses and stuff, SC, ZL1 Lid and Snout, Plugs, Coils, wires, etc all reinstalled.


My ZL1 Hose routing to the Norcal Tank. The hoses are the stock one. I just bought a union and used 2 pieces of 3/4 hose I already had.
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Larry get out of my shot!






DYNO RUNS

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Very nice! Who did the coating on your headers?
A local shop called CCP Coatings.
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Kickass man! We have very similar builds only I cheated and paid a shop to do most of the work :)

What clutch ya gonna go with?
Ha, running stock and will most likely stick with stock. Right Larry!?
Soulja!!! You rocked that build and stellar write up!!! Dr. Phil did it again....

Stock clutch until the motherfucker blows up!


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Great write up soulja. I'll make sure I save this thread for reference when I tackle mine later this year.
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