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Discussion Starter #1
I just received my reinforced brick from Artem. Is there a DIY for the swap with tools needed and some hints to make the job easier and so I can do it right? Also how much coolant and which type is best?

Sent from a misfiring cylinder
 

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remove strut bar, 18mm bolts, unplug sensors from lid, remove the 10mm bolts from lid, flip lid over, clamp the two hoses to the lid if you want to minimize coolant loss, undo the bolts holding brick to lid (cant remember if they are 10mm bolts), slide old brick out, clean up the coolant, pre fill new brick if you want, slide new brick in, bolt it down.
now there are different ways to get the air out. i found it easiest to leave the lid unbolted and start the pump, then shake the lid around, flip it over and back and just keep moving it until you no longer hear the rushing water sound from inside the brick.
 

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^^ Knowledge^^
 

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Discussion Starter #5
remove strut bar, 18mm bolts, unplug sensors from lid, remove the 10mm bolts from lid, flip lid over, clamp the two hoses to the lid if you want to minimize coolant loss, undo the bolts holding brick to lid (cant remember if they are 10mm bolts), slide old brick out, clean up the coolant, pre fill new brick if you want, slide new brick in, bolt it down.
now there are different ways to get the air out. i found it easiest to leave the lid unbolted and start the pump, then shake the lid around, flip it over and back and just keep moving it until you no longer hear the rushing water sound from inside the brick.

Thank you sir!
 

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when you take the lid off, I'd also cover the hole there with paper or something so you don't accidentally drop something down.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
What happens if I mix up the upper and lower hoses accidentally? I didn't mark them and couldn't figure out which was top and which was bottom. Can this cause issues? Seems to be running ok. I added a bit of coolant for a while and then drove 45 min and had to top off again. I'm hoping I didn't mess anything up. It's taken about 1/5th gallon so far I can confirm tomorrow.

I didn't prefill the brick.

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no issue if you swap the hoses, just maybe less cooling but probably nothing more then 1-2C
 

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And don't forget loctite on the brick bolts.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
The hose that comes out of the little t reservoir goes into the top top tube of brick or bottom?

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the hose out of the t goes into the top... since air rises, it will help with bleeding the system to get all the air out.... the hose on the bottom of the brick is coming from the pump...

the loop goes:

hot fluid comes out the top of the brick, into the tee, down the hardline across to the driver side of the heat exchanger... goes across the heat exchanger, becomes cool fluid, into the pump and then into the bottom of the brick...

the brick itself isn't directional... but the way i've researched it this way is to have it flow upwards to help purge the air since the tee is the highest point in the closed stock system...
 

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I meant for the brick inside the lid. Thank you though. Unless I missed it in that thread?
There is not a spec available because it comes as a unit. Just get them tight without breaking them lol.
 

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What happens if I mix up the upper and lower hoses accidentally? I didn't mark them and couldn't figure out which was top and which was bottom. Can this cause issues? Seems to be running ok. I added a bit of coolant for a while and then drove 45 min and had to top off again. I'm hoping I didn't mess anything up. It's taken about 1/5th gallon so far I can confirm tomorrow.

I didn't prefill the brick.

Sent from a misfiring cylinder
Hose that comes directly off "T fill tube" to the lid, should connect to the top. I didn't pre-fill the brick either, it isn't required. What I did (as others have suggested here and works like a charm) was tape a funnel that was small enough to fit in the fill tube, then fill it to about half way with distilled water/coolant to allow it to burp. Worked great.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Yea did mine all good. Tubes are correct

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