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2011 CTSV Coupe M BLK LSX376-B15
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Tuning seems to be fine as it’s almost identical to before the blower swap. Tuner said he really doubts the motor is hurt since the data all looks good but to do a compression check just to be sure.
Yeah, I wouldn't blame you for checking. But you need to realize I'm the 'King' of spazzing-out about everything! (haha)
 

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I had another thought, I don't have a solid background, still learning. My thought, maybe your balancer is spinning at boost with the extra load? If it was bad you'd hear it and feel it. But if it's spinning at boost in the early stage, maybe it might not be as obvious? Keys don't always last, especially if there not beefy. Maybe stripe it and go out for a drive and check? I know you said you have good oil pressure, but keep an eye out for fluctuation.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
I’ll take a look and see if I see anything wonky
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Well good news and bad news. Good news is the compression check went well and the motor is fine.
bad news is my alternator took a shit and my ps pump is leaking. So both those are getting replaced.
putting the car on the DYNO Thursday to see if adjusting the bypass valve made any difference. If it didn’t I will assume the blower seals are trashed and it needs a rebuild
 

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Well good news and bad news. Good news is the compression check went well and the motor is fine.
bad news is my alternator took a shit and my ps pump is leaking. So both those are getting replaced.
putting the car on the DYNO Thursday to see if adjusting the bypass valve made any difference. If it didn’t I will assume the blower seals are trashed and it needs a rebuild
This is great news! An alternator and PS pump is not all that much in comparison to having to rebuild or replace your engine.
 
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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Well, car is still down on power. So all signs point to the blower at this point. Going to swap my low mileage blower back on and see if the power comes back. Pretty disappointed
 
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Well, car is still down on power. So all signs point to the blower at this point. Going to swap my low mileage blower back on and see if the power comes back. Pretty disappointed
As Karch stated; sorry to hear about your problems my friend.

Please get back to us and let us know what happens when you put the stock blower back on.

Good luck!
 
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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
For curiosities sake, are these symptoms along the lines of those you’d see out of a blower that needed a rebuild? Or would there be other tell tale signs?
Could this possibly be a belt slip issue?
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
Reason I ask is because after contacting Greg Kong he thinks it could be belt slip or the lid leaking possibly and said a smoke test would show this. Not sure how to do a smoke test though. Any pointers?
 

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Reason I ask is because after contacting Greg Kong he thinks it could be belt slip or the lid leaking possibly and said a smoke test would show this. Not sure how to do a smoke test though. Any pointers?
I always like to refer people back to the manufacturer for help.

I think the best thing you can do is 'with your hat in hand' ask for help from Greg.
If he has developed a 'Smoke Test', then ask him how to perform it.

Stay in touch now! :)
 
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A smoke test is most commonly used to find leaks in the Evap system that captures and burns any evaporated gas fumes and burns them rather than letting them escape to the atmosphere. This equipment is at the opposite end of the spectrum of ownership than a 10mm socket.

A quick call to your local mechanic to see if they can perform the test and what they will charge (maybe an hour of labor or so) should be less expensive in terms of both money and time than DIY. They will have to fashion some sort of airtight adapter to the throttle body. Masking tape should do the trick. I'd bring a roll just in case.
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
So unfortunately my shop doesn’t have the tools to perform the smoke test. In the meantime, for my own peace of mind to rule out the bypass valve entirely, they are going to wire it shut and put it on the rollers to see if this changes anything at all, IE: we get the missing boost back. If that doesn’t change anything at all, I’m pulling the ported blower off and putting my stock blower back on.
 
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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
black market called me. They did what I asked and wired the bypass valve shut. Boost went up a little but power still isn’t there. So I’m assuming this blower needs a rebuild.
thoughts an opinions?
 

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How do the rotors look?
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
Rotors don’t look bad at all
 

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Well good news and bad news. Good news is the compression check went well and the motor is fine.
bad news is my alternator took a shit and my ps pump is leaking. So both those are getting replaced.
putting the car on the DYNO Thursday to see if adjusting the bypass valve made any difference. If it didn’t I will assume the blower seals are trashed and it needs a rebuild
What were the individual cylinder psi results, just curious?
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
Here they are
Font Parallel Number Screenshot
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
This was done cold by the way
 

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If you are getting belt slip, there should be some evidence of that on the accessory drive and the pulley. It could be that. I don't recall if you tensioner is within the limits, but some folks have modified them to allow a tighter belt to fit. Cheap and free if you have the time and tools. I don't know if the increased preload on the snout has any negative effects on bearings. Good luck.

Eric
 
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