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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I’m at a crossroads of sorts on where to go from here. Needless to say I’m disappointed but trying to figure out the best path to take from here. So here goes:

bought a used Kong ported blower from a local car built by a reputable shop. He went 2650 so I bought his Kong ported Blower. His blower has 60k on it total. He was running a 2.45 upper and not sure what lower.
Over the weekend I pulled off my stock blower with about 3k miles and the same 2.45 pulley and swapped on the Kong. I also installed a meth injection kit for cooling.
Go to the DYNO and the blower is only making 11psi and seems a little soft/laggy is the best way I can describe it. My stock unported blower was seeing 13ish psi. The car dropped a good amount of power. I checked the bypass valve and even swapped another one on from my low mileage blower.
I know buying a used blower is a gamble so now I’m not sure what to do and would love some advice. Below are the options I’m debating:

Pulley down and try and force it to make boost?
Swap my low mileage rotor packs into the ported case?
Send my low mileage blower out to one of the known porters and use that?

I’m going to take the zl1 lid off and check the bypass flap to make sure no light is coming through just to be sure. Also going to swap plugs and do a compression check even though logs and how the car acts seems like the motor is plenty healthy.
 

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Pulley down will result in higher intake charge temps. And besides that, it's a band aide. I wouldn't go that route. Assume you don't have an air leak someplace else, the blower's lobes are worn, or maybe scored from ingesting something solid (you should be able to see this if you turn the blower by hand). Swapping your stock rotors might work, depending. I'm not sure how the setup deals with tolerances since I've never taken one all the way apart.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Pulley down is the one I want to do the least. I want to fix the actual problem instead of like you said band aid it.
when I bought the blower I had the lid off so I could spin it and see the rotors. I didn’t see anything alarming nor did the rotor pack feel excessively loose.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I may try and adjust the bypass valve again tonight just to be 10000% sure it’s right. After that I’ll take the lid off and see if I can see light. Unfortunately I leave for a work trip in the morning so I’m delayed for a bit
 

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Like you said- check the flap to make sure it is closing fully and not bleeding boost.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Negative
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Logs were almost identical as far as the tune
 

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Sounds like maybe you bought someone else's problem

On the other hand - I wouldn't expect a blower to be WAY down on power unless the rotors are totally fucked - so it makes me think you missed something on the install?

Does it idle well? Could there be a boost leak somewhere?



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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Starts well. Idles well. Runs and drives perfectly fine. Temps are good. Oil pressure good.
Really hoping when I get home I find that it’s just the bypass valve or something simple
 
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My advice: Before swapping the rotors out a perfectly working stock blower, I would first contact Greg Kong and see what he recommend you do. If cost is not a serious deterrent, I would consider sending Greg your used ported blower and having him inspect it first to determine if the used blower is indeed worn out and is salvageable. If it indeed requires new rotors then I would see what that cost to replace them along with his apoxy port job. Now this is gone to cost you around 3k, but you would then be able recoup at least 2k if you sold your low mileage perfectly running stock blower. I think that will give you your biggest bang for your buck!
 
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I’m still traveling for work so I haven’t even been home to check the bypass valve flap and investigate further. I get home this weekend and will start the tear down.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
So after traveling for work for about a month I was finally able to get home and wrench on the car a bit. Pulled the lid off the blower so I could inspect the bypass valve flap. Upon inspection I could see the flap was slightly cracked open and light was coming through. Readjusted the bypass valve so it had no light coming through. Really hoping this solves my issue of being down on boost/power. If it doesn’t , I’ll be doing a compression check to rule that out.

wanted to give a big thanks to sofakingslow for letting me use his adjustment tool!
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I took a short video to show the condition of the rotors of the Kong ported blower I bought off another local V. If any of you guys with way more blower experience than me can take a look and let me know if you see anything that alarms you I’d appreciate it.
 

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I took a short video to show the condition of the rotors of the Kong ported blower I bought off another local V. If any of you guys with way more blower experience than me can take a look and let me know if you see anything that alarms you I’d appreciate it.
I attached an image of the SC oil I drained from mine after 3k just for reference, it's definitely not something than needs to be scheduled for maintenance very often, but I had it off and was curious. Also, you may have already checked, but the solenoid might be acting-up, have you checked the tuning, maybe something to do with the modulation settings?
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Tuning seems to be fine as it’s almost identical to before the blower swap. Tuner said he really doubts the motor is hurt since the data all looks good but to do a compression check just to be sure.
 

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I attached an image of the SC oil I drained from mine after 3k just for reference, it's definitely not something than needs to be scheduled for maintenance very often, but I had it off and was curious. Also, you may have already checked, but the solenoid might be acting-up, have you checked the tuning, maybe something to do with the modulation settings? View attachment 160309
And it smells so lovely!
 
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