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I totally agree. In fact I actually have a reduced timing pocket right at peak torque, but I think it's not significant enough. I may see what it likes as far as timing after 5k RPM next time I'm on the dyno. For now, I really have no need to push for more power. I'm very happy with where the car is now. Considering I've turned every bolt besides putting in the rotating assembly, I'm especially happy with it.
Congratulations on your build JA..:)

Not only is this build a great build, but it is also one of the better
builds which have been cataloged. This then will serve to help
others later in time.

----------------------------------------------------

Just a couple of thoughts for you JA.

Pulling to much timing will cause fuel not to burn completely.
Fuel which is not burned ends up as 'End Gasses'.

End gasses tend to be left behind, particularly within the gap behind your rings.
End gasses left behind are now preheated, and are above inlet charge temperatures.

So then; these unburnt gasses (end gasses) are not fully
burnt fuel, and they are at a higher temperature then
your incoming charge temperatures.

These end gasses are a primary reason for self detonation,
as on the next compression stroke they can, and do self detonate.

Also, once the unburnt fuel becomes excessive, that unburnt
fuel can cause your rings to wash out and not seal idealy.

Now, once the rings don't seal, you will have oil within the
cylinders, which also plays a large part in self detonation,
as oil in the cylinder reduces octane levels, by a large margin.

Finally, reading plugs after a few seconds on a dyno needs,
to be extended to longer duration pulls on the street or strip.

Usually this can be accomplished best on a test and tune day,
as you will want to cut the engine at maybe 600 ft and coast
down to the end of the 1st exit, pull over and read your plugs.

Just food for thought..:)

Cheers
 
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Finally, reading plugs after a few seconds on a dyno needs,
to be extended to longer duration pulls on the street or strip.

Usually this can be accomplished best on a test and tune day,
as you will want to cut the engine at maybe 600 ft and coast
down to the end of the 1st exit, pull over and read your plugs.

Just food for thought..:)

Cheers
Hub dynos also work well for this so you can adjust the brake on the dyno to hold a specific load point in the map for as long as you need to.

If I win the lottery and get to turn my shop into a HP lab…..


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2014 CTS-V Sedan A6
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Discussion Starter · #1,083 ·
Congratulations on your build JA..:)

Not only is this build a great build, but it is also one of the better
builds which have been cataloged. This then will serve to help
others later in time.

----------------------------------------------------

Just a couple of thoughts for you JA.

Pulling to much timing will cause fuel not to burn completely.
Fuel which is not burned ends up as 'End Gasses'.

End gasses tend to be left behind, particularly within the gap behind your rings.
End gasses left behind are now preheated, and are above inlet charge temperatures.

So then; these unburnt gasses (end gasses) are not fully
burnt fuel, and they are at a higher temperature then
your incoming charge temperatures.

These end gasses are a primary reason for self detonation,
as on the next compression stroke they can, and do self detonate.

Also, once the unburnt fuel becomes excessive, that unburnt
fuel can cause your rings to wash out and not seal idealy.

Now, once the rings don't seal, you will have oil within the
cylinders, which also plays a large part in self detonation,
as oil in the cylinder reduces octane levels, by a large margin.

Finally, reading plugs after a few seconds on a dyno needs,
to be extended to longer duration pulls on the street or strip.

Usually this can be accomplished best on a test and tune day,
as you will want to cut the engine at maybe 600 ft and coast
down to the end of the 1st exit, pull over and read your plugs.

Just food for thought..:)

Cheers
Thanks for the info. I knew the timing was low and egt was probably high. I just didn’t want to hurt the motor of I had issues with the fuel system that’s still in the tuning phase.

I’m really hoping it likes a few more degrees. Looking to run 16-17psi at the track on the 14th now that I know I have the second fuel pump coming in perfectly and the tune is safe. Going to target .77-.78L so I have a little leaning out to do.

I really need to program the EBC to open the gates quicker. What’s cool is the gate sensitivity is totally adjustable as are a few other WG controlling attributes.

Track times coming soon.
 

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2014 CTS-V Sedan A6
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Discussion Starter · #1,084 ·
Hub dynos also work well for this so you can adjust the brake on the dyno to hold a specific load point in the map for as long as you need to.

If I win the lottery and get to turn my shop into a HP lab…..
Bro, you aint lying. I would have a hub dyno and an engine dyno in a shop. I don't have room on my property for that, so I'd buy a plot of land and build on it. It would be a literal private performance shop. I'd have a hot tank, bead blaster, paint room, welding section, Trans rebuild table and a lounge with like 4 TVs on the wall. I'd fly invite members from here out to dyno their cars and just hang out for random weekends, all expenses paid for, LOL.

Got to play the lotto to win it though.....that one always gets me.
 

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2014 CTS-V Sedan A6
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Discussion Starter · #1,086 ·
I was thinking today......what if we ran an external crossover line between our fuel tanks. Say, put one in the back of both wells to connect them together. That way they could gravity feed back and forth and always be = in liquid quantity? Most of us tap and attach a line to run an aux fuel pump, what's one more short line ran over to the other side going to hurt?

Thoughts on this?
 

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Two more points of failure - both for contamination, moisture and fuel leaks. Easier to keep the OEM pickup UNLESS you've already drilled the tank for an Aux kit, then I'd say it's probably not a big deal.

Also braking and turning might limit the effectiveness as there will always be a delay in equilibrium relative to the size hose you run.

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2014 CTS-V Sedan A6
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Discussion Starter · #1,088 ·
So, there’s not a whole lot of info out there on what to do when you run the ZL1 Fuel Level Sender (FLS) in place of the stock V FLS. My surge tank had to run the ZL1 one and so do a few others like Fore. There’s all this data out there with crazy calculations and numbers to put in the data fields and even data to redo the column fields. I tried a bunch of different configurations and nothing worked. My fuel gauge would just read full. I finally said screw this and loaded in the stock values for all 4 tables governing the two FLS sensors. I took the values in the passenger gauge output table and hit that bastard with X.93. This lowered the table by 7% and when I keyed off and back on after a flash, my gas gauge was reading what it normally would after a drive to work after filling it up just before getting on the highway. Might need a percent or two tweaking, but damn it’s looking good and thank god for that. I’ll post some screen shots when I get home.
 
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Discussion Starter · #1,089 ·
So these subframe bars that HS makes are on the horizon. I've emailed them enough to probably drive them insane and they decided to make extra when they make more CTS-V turbo kit parts. So, you all non turbo people that are thinking about pulling the trigger.......go buy some kits so they make my subframe bars sooner, LOL.

Grey Font Pattern Monochrome Metal


And I've been wanting to wrap the V, I'm thinking this color. I used to have a Pontiac Grand Prix GTP that was this hunter green color, and to me it was very nice.

Wheel Tire Car Vehicle Land vehicle
 

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So these subframe bars that HS makes are on the horizon. I've emailed them enough to probably drive them insane and they decided to make extra when they make more CTS-V turbo kit parts. So, you all non turbo people that are thinking about pulling the trigger.......go buy some kits so they make my subframe bars sooner, LOL.

View attachment 154021

And I've been wanting to wrap the V, I'm thinking this color. I used to have a Pontiac Grand Prix GTP that was this hunter green color, and to me it was very nice.

View attachment 154022
Good Idea!
Everything tends to begin twisting / bending when you add torque to the rear wheels. . . .
 

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How soon do you want the bars? 😆 I thought about buying one of those tubular subframes..........🤫
Any pictures (not pics for Jesse..lol) or info you can share.

Okay, here is a gratuitous pic for Jesse:
Drinkware Tableware Serveware Font Cylinder
 

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I want that. Seriously. :D
 

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2014 CTS-V Sedan A6
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Discussion Starter · #1,094 ·
Good Idea!
Everything tends to begin twisting / bending when you add torque to the rear wheels. . . .
Bruce, here is the tubular subframe. I really want it too It's a grand though.


White Tire Bicycle accessory Bicycle part Bicycle handlebar
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,095 ·
How soon do you want the bars? 😆 I thought about buying one of those tubular subframes..........🤫
Soon.....like now would be cool.
 
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Bruce, here is the tubular subframe. I really want it too It's a grand though.


View attachment 154029
Is that for the rear? Very cool.

Maybe I need one.

ETA- front K member. Cooln but deletes swaybars. No Bueno.

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Discussion Starter · #1,097 ·
Is that for the rear? Very cool.

Maybe I need one.

ETA- front K member. Cooln but deletes swaybars. No Bueno.

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It's for the front and yes, no front sway bar.
 
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So, there’s not a whole lot of info out there on what to do when you run the ZL1 Fuel Level Sender (FLS) in place of the stock V FLS. My surge tank had to run the ZL1 one and so do a few others like Fore. There’s all this data out there with crazy calculations and numbers to put in the data fields and even data to redo the column fields. I tried a bunch of different configurations and nothing worked. My fuel gauge would just read full. I finally said screw this and loaded in the stock values for all 4 tables governing the two FLS sensors. I took the values in the passenger gauge output table and hit that bastard with X.93. This lowered the table by 7% and when I keyed off and back on after a flash, my gas gauge was reading what it normally would after a drive to work after filling it up just before getting on the highway. Might need a percent or two tweaking, but damn it’s looking good and thank god for that. I’ll post some screen shots when I get home.
as far as im aware the senders should all have the same value so the stock tables should work, also if the tables are adjusted a little wrong the gauge seems to just read flat out or on zero, i think there is another module it goes thru so has to equal out or something, sounds like its in a good spot now
 

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No sway bars? Is that good or bad?
Drag racing: GOOD
Rock crawling: GOOD
Any and every other purpose: BAD





edit to add: Despite Legendary power, a beefy drive-train and a very good Limited Slip Differential
CTS-Vs do NOT excel at rock crawling (do NOT listen to those Jeep guys)
 
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