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D3PE PROSPEED HO Bolt In EMP HX Water Pump Kit

We would like to introduce our newest product in our CTSV PROSPEED lineup of parts, our High Output, direct bolt in, EMP heat exchanger water pump kit. With higher boost and power levels more heat is released into the heat exchanger system. In an effort to combat this, better quality heat exchangers and reservoirs that allow for more fluid capacity have been developed, but one thing overlooked has been a quality high flowing water pump solution that can be bolted into the OEM location and allows the use of the existing lines and components. We knew right away we wanted to use the same pump we rely on in our ZR1 complete heat exchanger system, the D3PE reprogrammed Stewart EMP WP29 water pump, because of the pumps ability to flow almost double the amount of fluid of the OEM CTSV Bosch water pump (7.7GPM vs 3.6GPM) in an LSA HX system.

Our kit comes with everything to securely mount and install the Stewart EMP WP29 into your CTSV. Kit includes a CAD designed, laser cut, 2 piece mount made from high strength steel with a wrinkle black powdercoat, as well as CNC billet 3/4" to 1.00" hose adapters, all needed clamps, hose, and a D3PE reprogrammed Stewart EMP WP29 water pump. Bracket and accessories will also be available for those who already have a Stewart pump.

Pricing for the bracket and accessory kit is $159.99 plus s/h and the full system is $688.99 plus s/h, these will be ready to ship in 1-2 weeks. We will be running a special price of $654.99 with free shipping to the lower 48 on any preordered full system! Please call 832-230-1094 or email [email protected] to order!




Uncoated bracket set shown during test fitting:
 

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That is a nice looking bracket. You should offer plug and play hose kits too for stock lid and ZL1 lid. Can't imagine anyone would want to spend for that setup and then restrict the system with stock 5/8ths hoses.
 

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That is a nice looking bracket. You should offer plug and play hose kits too for stock lid and ZL1 lid. Can't imagine anyone would want to spend for that setup and then restrict the system with stock 5/8ths hoses.
I've had a reprogrammed EMP pump on my car for nearly 3 years and high flow EMPs are one of the best options available but there are factors to keep in mind. They are either 3000RPM standard or 4600RPM reprogrammed; that is accomplished through more power draw. Also, EMP's are 1" in and out, so flow rates completely dependent on line diameter, HX/lid in/out ID's, etc.

Second, the power draw is significant, especially at 4600RPM so if you're running the pump with the engine off (in the pits post-session, etc.) keep that in mind.

Another is "feeding the beast"; this pump will cavitate and lose prime if input is insufficient; at that point all flow ceases. Initially I was a 3/4" straight shot hose from a 2 gallon tank into the pump. In normal daily driving the pump would intermittently cavitate and lose prime; I would have to pop the input line into the lid to suction prime the pump. Once I modified my reservoir to 1" output in to the pump, my cavitation issues stopped. I can't imagine the OEM steel tube set would work at all with this pump (high flow or not), and even if it why would you?

If you're just starting the intercooler upgrade and you're considering this pump, get a 1" input port on whatever HX you style you chose if you can. I put this pump on road course track car with WeaponX HX with 1" ports and the IAT2's were very good. There's a thread with the log data from two years ago here somewhere. Even in my case with the little lower I have my daily IAT2's average about 7-9* over IAT1; track sessions on hot days will hit 130's or so on WOT straights but recovery is very quick.

http://www.ctsvowners.com/forum/71-...-too-fast-road-course-track-data-results.html
 

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I've had a reprogrammed EMP pump on my car for nearly 3 years and high flow EMPs are one of the best options available but there are factors to keep in mind. They are either 3000RPM standard or 4600RPM reprogrammed; that is accomplished through more power draw. Also, EMP's are 1" in and out, so flow rates completely dependent on line diameter, HX/lid in/out ID's, etc.

Second, the power draw is significant, especially at 4600RPM so if you're running the pump with the engine off (in the pits post-session, etc.) keep that in mind.

Another is "feeding the beast"; this pump will cavitate and lose prime if input is insufficient; at that point all flow ceases. Initially I was a 3/4" straight shot hose from a 2 gallon tank into the pump. In normal daily driving the pump would intermittently cavitate and lose prime; I would have to pop the input line into the lid to suction prime the pump. Once I modified my reservoir to 1" output in to the pump, my cavitation issues stopped. I can't imagine the OEM steel tube set would work at all with this pump (high flow or not), and even if it why would you?

If you're just starting the intercooler upgrade and you're considering this pump, get a 1" input port on whatever HX you style you chose if you can. I put this pump on road course track car with WeaponX HX with 1" ports and the IAT2's were very good. There's a thread with the log data from two years ago here somewhere. Even in my case with the little lower I have my daily IAT2's average about 7-9* over IAT1; track sessions on hot days will hit 130's or so on WOT straights but recovery is very quick.

http://www.ctsvowners.com/forum/71-...-too-fast-road-course-track-data-results.html
Wow. IAT2's did not exceed 136.4 for the lap. That's impressive.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
We have been running this on our shop CTSV for a while now, its paired with our HX and 3 gallon tank, all with 3/4" hose fittings. For any customer that purchases our full system, we can modify all components to have 1.00" connections for a fee. This is actually how our full ZR1 system is, anyone who opens up the connections on each component will see even higher flow rates then listed above. Restrictions in the HX fluid system are cumulative, meaning each restriction in the system adds up to form a total system restriction value. Most people don't realize exactly how important fluid flow is to overall heat rejection..

You can read our ZR1 HX development thread here to see differences once we removed the restrictions in the system:

D3 Performance Engineering ZR1 HX System Development - Corvette Forum
 

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A couple of questions:

What is the peak current draw as programmed by D3PE? Does the supplied wiring support this load via a standalone relay harness, or tap back to the OEM wiring?

Do the included fittings reduce the pump inlet / exit from 1" to 3/4"? I wasn't quite clear on your statement regarding this.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
19AMPs has been recorded when installed into a full OEM system.

The supplied wiring is made for this, the pump itself has a built in controller/relay, so red wire goes to battery post fused, black to chassis ground, and the violet goes to 12v ign switched.

Our kit comes with CNC billet hose adapters to go from 1.00" to 3/4".
 

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Discussion Starter #9
No problem
 

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Looks like a high quality/performing kit!

I some guys have the F manifold on the ZL1 lid and all lines resized 3/4" lines but what is the actual line size of the inlet/outlet of the IC brick?
 

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Looks like a high quality/performing kit!

I some guys have the F manifold on the ZL1 lid and all lines resized 3/4" lines but what is the actual line size of the inlet/outlet of the IC brick?
The actual line size going into the IC brick is pathetic. The 1st post in this thread has a pic and a pic is worth a thousand words:

http://www.ctsvowners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=30354

I suggest everyone get this done.. I did it myself and it wasn't fun. Although if I did it again, I'd do it differently. GD has the process streamlined!

Sent from my Galaxy Note 3 on Tapatalk
 

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The actual line size going into the IC brick is pathetic. The 1st post in this thread has a pic and a pic is worth a thousand words:

-12 AN ZL1 lid F manifold

I suggest everyone get this done.. I did it myself and it wasn't fun. Although if I did it again, I'd do it differently. GD has the process streamlined!

Sent from my Galaxy Note 3 on Tapatalk
Yeah i was wondering after the manifold if it necked down even further. You could make the physical in/out on the brick bigger but it would be expensive and probably not even worth it with out a less dense IC brick anyway
 

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Yeah i was wondering after the manifold if it necked down even further. You could make the physical in/out on the brick bigger but it would be expensive and probably not even worth it with out a less dense IC brick anyway
Once you bore out the initial opening on the F manifold, it actually opens up pretty good from that point on going into the brick itself. I have a brick in the garage, I'll try to get a pic later. I don't have an extra F manifold anymore, but you'll get the picture (pun intended).
I think you'll be fine with just the -12AN conversion.

Sent from my Galaxy Note 3 on Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Keep in mind that the restrictions in the system are cumulative (each restriction adds up to form a total restriction), so open up as much of the system as you can and it will still help,
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Guys these should start shipping by the end of the week!
 

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someone be the guinea pig on this please. and also a full right up:eek:
 

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No guinea pig needed, as there are a few guys running the WP29 pump on this forum.


Sent from my local E85 station.
 

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No guinea pig needed, as there are a few guys running the WP29 pump on this forum.


Sent from my local E85 station.
with good results? I know most are running the varimax pump but looking to see what else is out there
 

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Excellent results.
Some are 24V versions, some are 3000 rpm, some are 4600 rpm (don't quote me on the rpm, but what I mean are some are the hot-rodded version that were reprogrammed.

My point is, this is a nice plug-n-play option, but as long as you can feed this pump with enough flow and enough amps, it's a proven solution.

My ZR1 pump is much smaller, has less current draw, but they are $$ from the dealer.


Sent from my local E85 station.
 

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Excellent results.
Some are 24V versions, some are 3000 rpm, some are 4600 rpm (don't quote me on the rpm, but what I mean are some are the hot-rodded version that were reprogrammed.

My point is, this is a nice plug-n-play option, but as long as you can feed this pump with enough flow and enough amps, it's a proven solution.

My ZR1 pump is much smaller, has less current draw, but they are $$ from the dealer.


Sent from my local E85 station.
id love to get my hands on a zr1 pump. is the zr1 pump 3/4 inlet and outlet?
 
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