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How can I tell if they are toast? I have the DS axle assembly out but PS is fighting me at the moment.
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Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk
CV Joints
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When the CV joints went out in my 2006 GTO I knew they were bad because they made loud grinding and creaking sounds when I would make turns on flat or uneven surfaces. I is very noticeable! They had an IRS just like the V so I would assume that's one sign you can check for.
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Thanks but I meant inspecting them on the bench. I can remove the bolts but what am I looking for to confirm?
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No signs of boot damage or grease leakage, and they weren't making noises before you removed them, they're probably just fine. There are bearing surfaces that can be inspected, but you'll have to disassemble the knuckle and clean off all the grease to see. If you don't want to go all the way, then just test them for lash. Clamp one end and see if you can rotate the other end a little. If you can the CV is probably wearing out. There's probably a spec for how much lash is allowed, but I have no idea what it might be.
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They were definitely making noises (awful popping/crunching) when turning left or right.... but silent going straight. No boot damage or grease leaking at all. I hate throwing parts at a problem but all signs point to the cv joints. I wanted to visually inspect them before ordering a new pair and I guess I have to remove the boot to confirm.
The innner and outer races of a CV are semi-circular grooves that are cut in a curved path, axially. once you remove the boot and remove all the moly grease you will be able see the condition and size of the balls and you will be able to see the travel path that is visible in each groove.
The first thing you’ll be able to tell is just the overall extent of wear by cleaning ALL the grease out without disassembling the bearings… and just observe how loose or floppy the joint is.
A new CV joint has NO slop and doesn’t rattle.
As they wear, the balls become smaller and the wear paths become visible in the grooves.
If you see a slight indentation at the end of each travel path, it’s junk.
If the balls rattle, it’s junk.
If the cage is visibly worn or bent, it’s junk.
The first thing you’ll be able to tell is just the overall extent of wear by cleaning ALL the grease out without disassembling the bearings… and just observe how loose or floppy the joint is.
A new CV joint has NO slop and doesn’t rattle.
As they wear, the balls become smaller and the wear paths become visible in the grooves.
If you see a slight indentation at the end of each travel path, it’s junk.
If the balls rattle, it’s junk.
If the cage is visibly worn or bent, it’s junk.
Also, look for axial play of the joint (there should be only a little… not sure the number, but less than maybe 030 not counting spline/snap ring slack)
Move the CV all around its range, tilting every direction and it should move SMOOTHLY in every direction, no notchiness. If it seems to be ‘notchy’ that means there are dents worn into the races. Also means it’s junk.
Move the CV all around its range, tilting every direction and it should move SMOOTHLY in every direction, no notchiness. If it seems to be ‘notchy’ that means there are dents worn into the races. Also means it’s junk.
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Thanks for the info. I removed the axles and moved them around and all directions. It definitely was not smooth and was "catching" in different areas and could see how that would create the popping I was experiencing. I didn't bother cleaning the grease to inspect.. I just ordered new shafts from Rockauto.
Perfectly valid appreoach. How many miles on your car? My 140K mile axles are quiet as they can be...
Also.. The popping that you are chasing; does it happen only when turning at low speeds?
You probably see my trajectory... limited slip noise?
Also.. The popping that you are chasing; does it happen only when turning at low speeds?
You probably see my trajectory... limited slip noise?
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I have 123k miles and yes, it only happened turning at slow speeds. I originally thought it could be the diff but after reading many others similar experiences, I focused on the cv joints.
If it is the diff, I have one on hand that I "stole" from Summit. Lol
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If it is the diff, I have one on hand that I "stole" from Summit. Lol
Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk
The fix if it’s the diff is nothing more than a fluid change and friction modifier added.
That’s a helluva lot less work and money than either of the other things.
If the clicking is only when turning, it’s not likely the CVs. (on a fwd or AWD it would be a different answer)
The CVs in our application don’t operate at extreme angles as those on a steering axle would.
I think you’ll find that the diff is the issue rather than CVs.
That’s a helluva lot less work and money than either of the other things.
If the clicking is only when turning, it’s not likely the CVs. (on a fwd or AWD it would be a different answer)
The CVs in our application don’t operate at extreme angles as those on a steering axle would.
I think you’ll find that the diff is the issue rather than CVs.
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Interesting. I've changed the diff fluid at 58k and again at 102k. Both changes I used M1 LS 75w-90 which already friction modifier in it.
I've already removed the axles in anticipation of replacing them. I guess I'll find out what the issue is on Wednesday night.
I've already removed the axles in anticipation of replacing them. I guess I'll find out what the issue is on Wednesday night.
Well it's not like the axles don't have wear and need to be changed, any way. I just expect that the noise you are after will likely remain.
In this rear drive application, the CVs shouldn't be stressed any differently when turning versus traveling straight ahead.
Changing the angles that CVs are operating at could only be accomplished by loading more passengers in the car.
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Which as I recall from the last time I used any, smells like I imagine rotting whale sperm would smell. It's nasty smelling shit. Gag a maggot nasty.
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Well... the new axles did not fix it. And I can also say with absolute confidence that GM Friction Modifier will not fix it either. The diff is trashed. I took it down the street and the banging and clunking was still there. Upon taking a somewhat of tight turn, ithe diff started freewheeling. I managed to limp it back home and drive it up my steep driveway.
YAY ME!
YAY ME!
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