[Rekkr]

This thread is to list my current mods and seek advice as to suggestions to add more power. I will list some current parts that I have found for sale that I’m considering and would love feedback. Also keep in mind, I have a spare LSA block that I will be building with heads, gp tuning cam. So I’d like to get as much power out of my current running healthy setup as I can until it’s time to swap the built motor in. Thank you in advance



car is generally always ran on e85 or torco e98
goals: low 10 second 1/4 mile times

current mods:
Air raid CAI green filter
2.45 upper, stock lower
2in headers to 3in catless X pipes to factory exhaust
160deg T-stat
ZL1 lid and brick
Weapon X track attack heat exchanger
EMP intercooler pump
8gal water/ice tank in trunk
Ported blower snout
Old style NW TB
ID 1050x
DSX aux pump
DSX flex kit
MM catch can

tuned by Rhett Castillo at BMR

parts considering adding
Prometh lid kit
Lower pulley
Ported blower

 

[Karch]

Port the LSA heads (guys are running mid 9’s on WCCH stage 2.5 porting).

You’ll probably need bigger injectors.


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[Rekkr]

Plan is to switch to ID1300’s with the new motor. Sooner if I need to

 

[Rekkr]

@Karch any input on ported stock blowers? Worth it?

 

[Lt1z]

Ported blowers are worth when done right

 

[Karch]

@Karch any input on ported stock blowers? Worth it?

What Matt said.

I picked up 30 hp over a LPE ported snout (on a stock blower) when I installed a CNC ported blower.


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[Rubber Duck]

This thread is to list my current mods and seek advice as to suggestions to add more power. I will list some current parts that I have found for sale that I’m considering and would love feedback. Also keep in mind, I have a spare LSA block that I will be building with heads, gp tuning cam. So I’d like to get as much power out of my current running healthy setup as I can until it’s time to swap the built motor in. Thank you in advance



car is generally always ran on e85 or torco e98
goals: low 10 second 1/4 mile times

current mods:
Air raid CAI green filter
2.45 upper, stock lower
2in headers to 3in catless X pipes to factory exhaust
160deg T-stat
ZL1 lid and brick
Weapon X track attack heat exchanger
EMP intercooler pump
8gal water/ice tank in trunk
Ported blower snout
Old style NW TB
ID 1050x
DSX aux pump
DSX flex kit
MM catch can

tuned by Rhett Castillo at BMR

parts considering adding
Prometh lid kit
Lower pulley
Ported blower

While I see you stated you want to run low tens…

Since the above has a direct relationship to horsepower…Why don’t we begin with how much horsepower you’re looking pay for..😉

 

[Rekkr]

From the research I’ve done, mid 700whp has gotten guys into the 9s according to the YouTubes. So that’s what I’m shooting for as the happy as a pig in shit goal. If the car goes real low 10’s I’ll still be happy. Just not AS happy if I could say I touched 9’s. So based off my super long answer, how much power do you think I’ll need?

 

[Rekkr]

Also as stated in my original post, the prometh kit is for sale local to me for a decent price and is in brand new condition as it wasn’t ever used. From the previous conversations in other threads I’ll probably pick that up this weekend unless you guys think it’s a waste of money

 

[ericb350]

Also as stated in my original post, the prometh kit is for sale local to me for a decent price and is in brand new condition as it wasn’t ever used. From the previous conversations in other threads I’ll probably pick that up this weekend unless you guys think it’s a waste of money

Meth will keep the IAT's in check while also assisting in fueling. I run a lid with meth injection and have installed the prometh kit on another car. It's very important that you make sure the kit is functioning properly or you might have a bad day with the car running lean. Also, I know you said 10's, but go ahead and spend the money now on shit you think you will upgrade when the goal becomes 9's.

 

[ericb350]

An air/fuel gauge might be worth while IMO.

 

[Rekkr]

I have a wide and gauge in the car

 

[Rubber Duck]

From the research I’ve done, mid 700whp has gotten guys into the 9s according to the YouTubes. So that’s what I’m shooting for as the happy as a pig in shit goal. If the car goes real low 10’s I’ll still be happy. Just not AS happy if I could say I touched 9’s. So based off my super long answer, how much power do you think I’ll need?

Because 750 hp is approximately equal to 100% cylinder fill on a 376 CID engine, it’s not so easy to do on gasoline my friend.

What fuel are you proposing to use?

Also, there’s many variables involved when we take critical information from Facebook literally.

The first is: what is the Dyno and who is the operator.

That is why many have stated; I don’t care about Dyno numbers, give me your time slip… Lol

 

[Rekkr]

I was basing this off two cars from DMS. I’ve known Matt for a long time so I trust him.

fuel will be e85 or e98

I agree about DYNO numbers not correlating all the time because I’ve seen “800whp” cars run times that don’t match up at all. Also why I definitely wanted your opinions on what power numbers have you guys seen propel coupes into low 10’s high 9’s

 

[Rubber Duck]

I was basing this off two cars from DMS. I’ve known Matt for a long time so I trust him.

fuel will be e85 or e98

I agree about DYNO numbers not correlating all the time because I’ve seen “800whp” cars run times that don’t match up at all. Also why I definitely wanted your opinions on what power numbers have you guys seen propel coupes into low 10’s high 9’s

OK so you’re going to run an oxygenated fuel.
That makes your 750 rear wheel horsepower realizable.

It will also take such things as a well built engine to do that, as well as an efficient mass flow recovery system, a good engine tune, trans tune, and good tires.

Using an LSA aluminum block, with their cheap cast cylinder liners, also means that with 750 rear wheel horsepower, your cylinders will not stay round, the rings will not seal, requiring one to two catch cans.

So tell me a little about the engine you’re going to build…

 

[Rekkr]

the other motor I am planning on doing a good set of pistons, heads, gp cam, etc. spec’d out by black market racing as they’ve done this a bunch of times. It will be an LSA block as that’s what I have at the moment unless something major changes which I don’t see happening.

 

[Rubber Duck]

the other motor I am planning on doing a good set of pistons, heads, gp cam, etc. spec’d out by black market racing as they’ve done this a bunch of times. It will be an LSA block as that’s what I have at the moment unless something major changes which I don’t see happening.

Okay Then:
Peak engine rpm?
compression ratio?
Cylinder head flow?
Camshaft duration, and valve lift.....

Those variables are a good place to start, as the amount of horsepower an engine can produce, is directly related to the amount of air it can inhale.

The piston CFM demand is directly related to your engine rpm, as well as the stroke of the engine.

That piston CFM demand, must be available via the induction system, or the supply side, or the engine will starve for air at the higher engine rpm.

Regarding the compression ratio. This is important, as the static compression ratio determines the efficiency of the burn.

If the engine is inefficient, the camshaft will require a larger duration exhaust lobe, as well as larger primary pipe for the header.

In order to make 750 hp, the engine will need the following supply side, given in CFM….
=> ( 750 * 1.5 / 0.87 )= 1293 CFM
*** this value is based on using gasoline as your fuel.
*** this value will be reduced considerably, if one uses an oxygenated fuel.

Here you’re mean cylinder head flow, as would be measured on a flow bench using a depression of 28 inches of water drop, would be…
=> (1293 / 4)= 323 CFM

With our cylinder heads, that value of 323 CFM, must be in inhaled by convergence lift.

Covergence lift for 2.165 inch, intake valve would be. . .
=> (2.165” * 0.25)= 0.541” of valve lift.

Hopefully, that gives you something to start with my friend…

Good Luck..😋

 

[Rekkr]

I appreciate it a ton! I believe BMR wants to stay with stock compression. Make sure we get a set of heads that flow really well (I brought up the ones karch suggested). And go from there.
Really appreciate the help and feedback from everyone here.

 

[Rubber Duck]

I appreciate it a ton! I believe BMR wants to stay with stock compression. Make sure we get a set of heads that flow really well (I brought up the ones karch suggested). And go from there.
Really appreciate the help and feedback from everyone here.

Check in and let us know how things go…

Best of luck!

 

[Rekkr]

Talking to a local guy that has a Kong ported factory blower with 60k miles for $2500. Seriously considering picking it up and slapping it on regardless if my stock blower sells