Cadillac CTS-V Forum banner
1 - 20 of 32 Posts

· Registered
2018 CTS-V Black Raven Carbon Package, 2017 Escalade ESV
Joined
·
138 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Let me tell what you what I've done.

I have the Carlyle.

I'm with lt4 mike, FFS what fixes it...

Let me tell you this is what I've tested.

-what didn't fix it

1. Had the car aligned. - nope (Don't Trust your dealer, find a serious alignment shop as this is the cure)
2. Put the Carlyle and realigned - better, but nope
3. I know there's a different ecu change between 2016-2017. - ?
4. eLSD configuration. - that's what I'm wondering

Now let's get to the practicality boys.

Car before Carlyle was very wavy, felt like a 55 on big tires, fine.
Put in the arms, it helped but didn't fix.
Had 3 shops (yes we try to fix everything with alignment) no fix.

Now, eLSD....

Pull A. hit it from 70 to 130 in Tour, hold on , whacks from side to side
Pull B, hit it from 70-130 in sport, actually more
Pull C, TRACK , (change track control setting) wow 80% better....it still hunts but less
Pull D. TRACK, change, eliminate traction control, she nails it, goes straight....

Now my problem with this, it shouldn't matter, it's the eLSD. It's not the suspension. There's a crappy config, I'm assuming we can remap the CCM with the tables from the Zl1 with the drag mod?

It's the shock of the throttle and our eLSD goes crazy.

I'd like to know if there's a difference between the 2016 v/ 2017+.

It's not tires, it's not suspension, yes it helps, but it's the eLSD So lets' fix it.

There has to be a reason some cars deal with it, some cars dont. I've been able to reproduce this, hot tires, cold tires, 100%.
 
  • Like
Reactions: papi

· Registered
Joined
·
212 Posts
I had this issue on my stock ‘16 for a year and could not find anything wrong and then one day I was under the rear of the car and could see that the right rear shock had started leaking on the lower control arm. I changed the shock and the “automatic lane change” problem went away. The shock had previously showed no signs of leaking.

I think on some of there cars the rear shock(s) could be defective without showing any signs. Maybe the cure is to replace the shocks with new, even if they look good.

Or maybe I am just lucky.
 

· Registered
2018 CTS-V Black Raven Carbon Package, 2017 Escalade ESV
Joined
·
138 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Could very well be. I'm still under warranty.
 

· Registered
2018 CTS-V Black Raven Carbon Package, 2017 Escalade ESV
Joined
·
138 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The problem with the dealer is that most of the time they will only warranty a shock if it is leaking. The dealer only replaced mine when it leaked.
I know....smh...
 

· Registered
Joined
·
7,345 Posts
Just curious, you did all this but no new tires?

What tires are on the back of it?

When I bought my 16 V with original super sports on it, the traction was terriblle, all over the road, spinning, the elsd was trying to compensate and the car didnt go very straight.

Threw some fresh PS4S on it and the car hooked perfectly and went straight as an arrow.
 

· Registered
2018 CTS-V Black Raven Carbon Package, 2017 Escalade ESV
Joined
·
138 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Brand new PS as of maybe 2500 miles ago. Tires look brand new. Oddly though, @ 70mph...I'd find that amazing if it was fighting traction at 70.
 

· Registered
2018 CTS-V Black Raven Carbon Package, 2017 Escalade ESV
Joined
·
138 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Forgot to mention, I'm running the PS4s, I wondering if the control module really needs to be reset? Im chasing the shocks next.
 

· Premium Member
Joined
·
376 Posts
Here's my .02 cents...

1. Changing the TTY bolts with the alignment also helps keep the alignment settings where they should be.
2. I think the suggestion about the shocks is a good one.
3. I mentioned before that the cradle bushings are as important of a mod as the Carlyle arms were - if not more - because the amount of wiggle due to soft rubber bushings is reduced.

4. Also, if you're a 40-roll-WOT guy, I would not go for the alignment window that's listed and would go towards something more neutral in the rear.
(When I quarter mile this thing, I'll probably have to change my alignment settings too). I also made sure I'm not punching it on cold tires and have the gauge up to be sure.
For the mode, I'm in "Tour" if just driving and never push it hard in that mode otherwise I'll get the booty twerk under power.
Most of the time I'm in "Sport" or "Track - Sport 1" if I'm on curated pavement.

5. I also had a situation when adding all the power I did recently and getting it on the dyno where the back end (which has served me well after the Carlyle arms & bushings) started to develop more instability.
I did much of the same, checked tire pressure/tire wear, looked underneath at the suspension components... thought that maybe the dyno or the addl power threw the balance off.

Ultimately, I took it out on some really curvy mtn roads and beat on it hard (maybe I was a little frustrated, but really lucky I didn't get a ticket or worse for going those speeds on public roads).
The road is as tight as an autocross track. The PS4S Tires were hot/almost gooey to the touch and you could smell the heat emanating from the car when I got out to inspect things.
I encountered other issues...mid turn, she'd spin the tires and hang her butt out to the side when I would normally roll into throttle to pull her fat butt out of the turn (bad sides of adding more power?)
It started to rain again... I put it in snow/wet for the traction mode and went to an empty parking lot to throw it in some figure 8's and it reacted as it should.
I am now able to lay down the power in the straights again and it is progressively got better and more stable after that.

Point of all that was... There are many different algorithms, or calculations used by the eLSD system and I'm not sure if it learns or not.
The amount of locking/unlocking that the system delivers depends on many different algorithms and vehicle inputs... it felt like it might be learning. Dunno.

Also, I do know that a service bleed procedure with a scan tool needs to be performed to remove any air from the system... It also bleeds or supposed to when driving.
So maybe you can try some turns and force the eLSD to keep switching the power from one side to the other.

6. I'd be interested to see if anyone manages to get a zl1 eLSD software upgrade.
I was told that the eLSD is specifically designed for the car and the one in the CTS-V is different than that of the z06 or the zl1... so I don't think they would do it.
 
  • Like
Reactions: randeez

· Registered
2018 CTS-V Black Raven Carbon Package, 2017 Escalade ESV
Joined
·
138 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
Thank you, I agree. This is one of the most informative posts I've seen. I will let you know what I try. I feel it's isolated, but the cars that do have it, can greatly benefit from the cure.

I actually have a decent dealer, as I have a new engine with 1000 miles on it (3months later), after an oil pump failed...Warranty. They didn't believe me when I saw signs, now they are fully aware. I will let you guys know, there must be a way to re calibrate, however I believe there must be something off. The shocks are making me go hmm......Any truly information posts like those above I feel are beneficial, versus just throwing money at the problem.

@airtroop01 Thank you sir. much appreciated.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Just curious, you did all this but no new tires?

What tires are on the back of it?

When I bought my 16 V with original super sports on it, the traction was terriblle, all over the road, spinning, the elsd was trying to compensate and the car didnt go very straight.

Threw some fresh PS4S on it and the car hooked perfectly and went straight as an arrow.
Did that to my low mileage (18k) and it made the car handle "correctly" for me. It was difficult to try to even eases the throttle on without the car moving around.
 

· Registered
2017 Cadillac CTS-V
Joined
·
670 Posts
I DO like the suggestion of replacing the rear mag-ride shocks to solve ice's issue. There is, however, a minimum limit of shock oil leakage required for a tech to be able to replace the shock. A tech on here actually posted the GM Service Bulletin for replacement based upon oil seepage down the shock body-NO JOKE, that's how they judge! I do recall someone saying to shoot WD-40 up the shaft to make the oil leak on the shock body look like it hit minimum replacement standards. The link to the mag-ride GM service bulletin is here...

https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2014/MC-10126308-9999.pdf

...another alternative diagram right here...
Rectangle Product Handwriting Font Slope


...and the link to the entire mag-ride shock replacement thread is here.

 

· Registered
2017 Cadillac CTS-V
Joined
·
670 Posts
FYI-for those dealing with stability issues, there is a THIRD thread with 21 pages of commentary. Here is the link to it, and below that is what I posted 7 mos ago regarding my experiences trying to solve the ass sway.



"Ok guys, I think have some info that may rule out some root causes for this swaying issue. It's been suggested it could be the "over-aggressive" programming in the ELSD, bad alignment, suspension flex, shocks, springs, tires, sidewalls...you name it. Piece by piece, I've worked my way through most of these. (minus the shocks & the ELSD "programmer" available for the 'Vettes-which I no longer think I'll need).

Keep in mind that while I am lowered on WX springs, the swaying condition started when I was TOTALLY STOCK for the first 8kmi. That being said, the sway condition was greatly exacerbated once lowered, which introduces another variable. Just remember that in the sequence below, all corrective measures for the sway were attempted AFTER being lowered.

So, after 5kmi running the car totally stock, it was scary at 3/4 WOT. I thought it was just old rubber, and took the opportunity to install the WX spring set prior to getting all new tires and an alignment. The non-performance shop was barely able to align all 4 corners in the green, and the rear camber was barely in the red. Now, after just 2k-3k miles on my first set of new rear tires, the sway was back, but WAY worse-I mean this bitch was squirrely at even 2/3 WOT, and eating up the inside shoulder of the rears. Realigned and installed new rears...same thing.

Fed up, in the effort to be able to align the suspension properly ("center green") when already dumped an inch through the stroke, I needed adjustable front cam bolts to allow more negative camber, and I installed the Carlyle Drag suspension, sans the calipers, which allowed all of the stabilizer arm lengths to be adjusted. During the drives post a TRUE PERFORMANCE SHOP alignment (<-that's key!), these fixes planted the ass-end 100% at WOT, but to say it was more stable because of the Carlyle arms or the now-corrected rear geometry, I don't know. What I CAN say is that, once the upgrade was completed, WOT was like being shot straight out of a cannon, and there was no mileage "limit" on WOT stability as before; all 7kmi on those tires were as good as the first! IF YOU'RE LOWERED AND SQUIRRELY, YOU MUST INSTALL THIS KIT. If you're lowered w/o this kit and NOT squirrely, A) you're not driving hard enough, B) you're prematurely wearing your tires, and C) you're enjoying reduced performance. That being said, even if I wasn't lowered, I'd STILL recommend the Carlyle Kit. There's just no way that the shitty OEM, stamped-steel stabilizer arms are not flexing under power, especially if you're modded. They're flimsy GARBAGE, and I suspect that they're the overall reason for everyones' sway issue.

You're asking yourself, why'd he only get 7kmi out of that last alignment & set of tires? About two weeks ago, I needed to get new wheels and rubber due to the dual-right side blowouts experienced on my 20in. set from a jagged pothole. I had to go back to the stock wheels and tires because the replacement set of wheels and tires I ordered is, unsurprisingly, on backorder (going back to 19's). Obviously, the higher sidewalls and age of the rubber made the car less capable, but she still shot STRAIGHT. Remember, that's 7k miles since the proper alignment, and on old rubber.

Since my lift isn't in yet, I had the performance shop realign it, re-shoe the stock wheels, and install the rear solid aluminum Z28 bushings I was going to do myself. The only reason I even had the bushings was because I bought them as backup in case the earlier remedy failed, which it didn't. But hell, they can't hurt, right? Well, in my estimation, post bushing swap, the car is no more or less "stable" at WOT than it was prior. Could there be the benefit of increased stability at WOT on older, higher mileage rubber? Maybe, only time will tell, but from the feeling in your ass at WOT out of the gate, it's the same.

So, to recap, I'm on the stock shocks, stock "unprogrammed" ELSD, back to the stock sidewall tire on the stock wheel...I can, in my experience, rule all of those out as root causes. The only thing I can readily point to that SOLVED my issue was the Carlyle Kit, and a TRUE performance alignment. The jury is still out on the bushings, but as far as increase in WOT stability outta the box, that's a no."
 

· Registered
2018 CTS-V Black Raven Carbon Package, 2017 Escalade ESV
Joined
·
138 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Checking my shocks since warranty why not. Then scheduled for a full 4 wheel at a very good shop. I'll let you know how it goes. Thanks for all the great info!
 

· Registered
2018 CTS-V Black Raven Carbon Package, 2017 Escalade ESV
Joined
·
138 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Alright, it's fixed, it's like getting shot out of a cannon now. No seeking, no booty shake, nada. I had it done with a great shop with the Hawkeye elite system. It actually surprised me how straight it went. Total night and day, so the arms, alignment. That cures it.

I'll post my alignment specs for anyone else. You'd be surprised how much it was off...You'd never notice driving the car normally though...
 

· Registered
2018 CTS-V Black Raven Carbon Package, 2017 Escalade ESV
Joined
·
138 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Before/After

@Rboughne1


Seems consistent with others who've solved it.
Output device Rectangle Font Display device Television
Output device Font Display device Gadget Rectangle
 
  • Like
Reactions: Blades1_99

· Registered
2018 CTS-V Black Raven Carbon Package, 2017 Escalade ESV
Joined
·
138 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Toe
 
1 - 20 of 32 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top