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I finally installed my mounts today, I cut down my CS top dowels to approximately 5mm and they seemed to good with no binding. Upon removing the driver side mount I find that it is separated and oil is coming out of it. Upon discovering this the top dowel chewed the aluminum bracket and made a channel towards the engine. I Find it interesting find that it would chew it when the mount was broken I didn't have a clue it was broken and there was no oil anywhere around until i moved it from the bay.
There is a milled slot in the top bracket. It probably just chewed the slot and left the impression it created the slot.
 

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Just some pics showing the CS pins are too long. Last pic is after I cut it down.


I'm using Tapatalk so I may not see what you u do.
 
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Instead of making another thread, I'll say that I like the street mounts now that I have driven the car several times. They're very similar to stock and I highly highly recommend them for someone who doesn't want to sacrifice comfort but needs something stronger than stock. There *might* be a small amount of vibration added at low RPM when starting off in 1st gear and feathering the clutch, but that's all I can remember.
 

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I've installed the black mounts in mine and also had to cut the pins down so they cleared. I've only got about 60 miles on them but I do notice more vibration on the freeway and at idle. I didn't want to go with the red mounts as I was afraid the vibration would be to much for a street car so I just hope I don't rip these apart as quick as the stock one's went.
 

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Great info guys, I really appreciate ya'll jumping in here with your experiences, as I'm seriously considering these mounts

This is my humble opinion and just a suggestion in an effort to minimize vibration with the black mounts. If and/or when I install the CS mounts, I'm only going to install a single mount on the drivers side and leave the factory mount installed on the passenger side. I see no need to put both CS mounts in due to the fact the left side is the one taking the abuse. For the most part, the right side simply supports the weight of the engine. My hope is that this might help reduce some of the vibration and preserve the Cadillac ride, which is VERY important to me.
 

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Great info guys, I really appreciate ya'll jumping in here with your experiences, as I'm seriously considering these mounts

This is my humble opinion and just a suggestion in an effort to minimize vibration with the black mounts. If and/or when I install the CS mounts, I'm only going to install a single mount on the drivers side and leave the factory mount installed on the passenger side. I see no need to put both CS mounts in due to the fact the left side is the one taking the abuse. For the most part, the right side simply supports the weight of the engine. My hope is that this might help reduce some of the vibration and preserve the Cadillac ride, which is VERY important to me.
Did you verify that your passenger mount is intact? I thought mine was in good condition because I didn't see any fluid, but when I removed it, it had torn the outer layer and was flopping around, just not leaking.
 

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Did you verify that your passenger mount is intact? I thought mine was in good condition because I didn't see any fluid, but when I removed it, it had torn the outer layer and was flopping around, just not leaking.
It all comes down to how hard its abused once the DS fails IMO.

My passenger side was def shot, though the DS was torn in two...thats no dig stuff at all, no drag passes.
 

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Did you verify that your passenger mount is intact? I thought mine was in good condition because I didn't see any fluid, but when I removed it, it had torn the outer layer and was flopping around, just not leaking.
No....I haven't started any mods to my V as of yet. When I do, I will inspect the passenger side mount to be sure it's good to go. If it isn't, I'll get an OEM mount and replace it.
 

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Both my mounts were perfectly fine on my 14 M6 when pulled them. I was surprised but tells me the car truly wasn't beat to crap before I got it.

I'm using Tapatalk so I may not see what you u do.
 
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Both my mounts were perfectly fine on my 14 M6 when pulled them. I was surprised but tells me the car truly wasn't beat to crap before I got it.

I'm using Tapatalk so I may not see what you u do.
Yeah...I got my car with Nitto NT05Rs on the back and two broken motor mounts, but whatevs. Motor seems to run strong, doesn't use oil, etc.
 

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Update on my Creative Steal street mounts.
I took the pins and cut off a little bit so it would sit flush as suggested. Put them in no issues.
Go to shut the hood and.... now the hood hits the ZL1 milled lid so bad that it barely shuts and flexes in the middle. I took the hood liner off to help a little but its flexing pretty bad. Jordan @ CS says he's never had this issue.
Anyone else have similar experience?
No blower spacer, checked lid and it's level.

I'm using Tapatalk so I may not see what you u do.
 

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I hope no one suggests to lower the engine 1/4". There's many threads out there......
 

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Discussion Starter #33
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Physical problems: Again since my stock mounts were shot this is hard to compare. I noticed my stock mounts were bad because even with a clearanced ZL1 lid, I was still cutting marks in my hood liner. I bought a new hood liner to fix that now that the mounts are fixed. I put that new hood liner on today and put some play-dough on top of the lid and shut the hood. It smashed the play-dough completely flat. As in, zero clearance. I can't say for sure these are taller than stock because my old mounts were so bad, but they certainly aren't shorter. It's not hard to do, why wouldn't Creative steel take just a little height out? I'm sure it's going to cut up my new hood liner also, hopefully not as bad as the dead motor mounts did.
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I don’t know if mine were taller but there was zero clearance at minimum. My lid was probably milled a little more than most.
 

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I hope no one suggests to lower the engine 1/4". There's many threads out there......
Care to elaborate? I know I can lower the K member but it's bs. These mounts should be lower not taller.

I'm using Tapatalk so I may not see what you u do.
 

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Here's what I did.


I'm using Tapatalk so I may not see what you u do.
 

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Those mounts look like it would be easy enough to drill/tap two holes higher up on each side of the U-shaped bracket, thus lowering your engine.

The problem is you'll have to be VERY careful with interference near the power steering rack, oil pan, and exhaust manifolds / headers. But yeah, you'd think they'd offer the option from the get go.
 

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My ZL1 lid also hits my hood liner, but I don't think it flexes it badly. I just live with it for now.
 

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Same here. I have it on my list to look at doing some trimming and hopefully retaining the rest of the hood insulation. Itll either be that or a Dynamat of some sort to keep the hood insulated. Or one of Ben's hoods if the O&G industry would put on its rally cap already.
 

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Anyone done these yet without pulling the headers? I've got mine up on the lift right now, with a 4 ft extension and a 15mm snap on shallow wobble I was able to loosen all four bolts on the passenger side bracket. Hopefully once it drops free I can just turn it sideways to hit the top nut with an impact. Anyone tried this and turned out to be a dumbass also??
 
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