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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I couldn't find any feedback on the CS motor mounts, but I bought a pair anyways. So, I guess I'm one of the first to have the set installed. I paid full retail for these, so no shill review here.

I bought the black bushing "street" version. My comparisons may not be completely fair because I had busted stock mounts. My car has 68k and I bought it at 59k and I assume they were busted when I bought it. I also consider myself a bit picky and very in tune with my cars noises and vibrations.

Installation: You can see pictures in my build thread. https://www.ctsvowners.com/forum/148-build-threads/53938-2009-gray-v-sedan-7.html#post2393122 The only thing I'll add to the installation. The top locating pins seem to be too long. They did fine lining everything up, but when I made the last turn to tighten the upper nuts, it popped the alignment pins out on both sides. I guess they bottomed out in a blind hole on the motor mount brackets. I didn't pull it back apart to inspect completely. Once everything is installed, it's not a critical part, but it bugs me none the less.

Driving feel: I started the car up yesterday at a friends shop and drove it home about 15 miles. At first the added vibration was borderline placebo. I could only notice more because I was really looking for it. After 1 mile the car felt like normal. Tight describes it best. I'm sure having busted stock mounts was having an affect on the feel of the car.
After driving 10 miles, I came to a traffic light and stopped and once the car idled I could definitely feel more vibration. It's added extra audible noise at idle also, like a lightly noticeable resonance. I have an LT1Z 2.5 cam and idle at 750 rpm, so it's not like a smooth stock motor. I can best describe it as, the Cadillac smoothness is gone. If you love the shake of a big cam, you might like the added feedback you get with the tighter motor mounts.

Physical problems: Again since my stock mounts were shot this is hard to compare. I noticed my stock mounts were bad because even with a clearanced ZL1 lid, I was still cutting marks in my hood liner. I bought a new hood liner to fix that now that the mounts are fixed. I put that new hood liner on today and put some play-dough on top of the lid and shut the hood. It smashed the play-dough completely flat. As in, zero clearance. I can't say for sure these are taller than stock because my old mounts were so bad, but they certainly aren't shorter. It's not hard to do, why wouldn't Creative steel take just a little height out? I'm sure it's going to cut up my new hood liner also, hopefully not as bad as the dead motor mounts did.

Conclusion: They did what I needed, they replaced some dead stock mounts. Hopefully they will outlast another stock set. I can confidently beat on the car at the track again in search of some 1.4 60's. Overall I can live with the added NVH. On a scale of 1-10; 1 being stock Cadillac and 10 being solid motor mount gutted race car, these are 2-3.
 

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Great feedback on the CS mounts, thanks for posting.

On another note, I'm curious as to how fast you've run your car on the strip, both ET and MPH?
 

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After reviewing your build thread and looking at the CS mounts, it appears that the mounts could be easily trimmed down a bit and re-drilled for new screw holes to gain a little more hood clearance. Of course that would be a pain in the ass to redo.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Great feedback on the CS mounts, thanks for posting.

On another note, I'm curious as to how fast you've run your car on the strip, both ET and MPH?
I haven’t run it with the current pulley combo and new trunk tank. Last year in good weather I went a [email protected] 1/8th.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
After reviewing your build thread and looking at the CS mounts, it appears that the mounts could be easily trimmed down a bit and re-drilled for new screw holes to gain a little more hood clearance. Of course that would be a pain in the ass to redo.
Yes, that’s certainly possible, but for $300 a pair you would think they could laser cut the extra holes for you. You have to take the angle the mounts sit in the car into account if you drill your own.
 

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Thanks for the review. Disappointing for a company like them to overlook the locating pin length. Did you make sure to let them know? They are good about updating their products. Not that you want to do them again, but had you complained before installing them, they might have fixed you up on the spot.
 

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Yea the top pin can only be about .250 tall and fits in a blind slot in the bracket to the block.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks for the review. Disappointing for a company like them to overlook the locating pin length. Did you make sure to let them know? They are good about updating their products. Not that you want to do them again, but had you complained before installing them, they might have fixed you up on the spot.
I'll send them an email Monday about the locating pin. The pin is pretty inconsequential once the mounts are in place and tightened down, so I didn't bother to do anything about my set. Had I known they were too tall, I would have shortened them myself. But this didn't show up until both mounts were in place and I was tightening them down.
 

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I'll send them an email Monday about the locating pin. The pin is pretty inconsequential once the mounts are in place and tightened down, so I didn't bother to do anything about my set. Had I known they were too tall, I would have shortened them myself. But this didn't show up until both mounts were in place and I was tightening them down.
Mike did Jordan get back to you about the locating pin?
 

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I meant to email them about it. I had the same issue and couldn't even find my pins once they dropped, haha. They're stuck in the cradle somewhere.
 

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Well I guess I should cut mine than! My heads are currently off the car so I’m hoping it makes it a little easier to change. Any other tips for install?
 

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Well I guess I should cut mine than! My heads are currently off the car so I’m hoping it makes it a little easier to change. Any other tips for install?
The top dowels should be 200 thousandths (~5 mm) above the surface of the mount.
 

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I ordered my CS street mounts yesterday. I'll see how tall the pins are. Its the top pins that are too long? The black poly goes to the frame and silver up correct?
 

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I ordered my CS street mounts yesterday. I'll see how tall the pins are. Its the top pins that are too long? The black poly goes to the frame and silver up correct?
Bottom length doesn’t matter as much because the subframe has thru holes with plenty of clearance behind. Top are just slots in the castings.

200 matches oem
 

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Thanks Adam
 

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Discussion Starter #17

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So it looks like from what y'all are saying I'm gonna need to cut off a little bit of these pins?


I'm using Tapatalk so I may not see what you u do.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
You’ll need to trim the ones on the side opposite of the poly bushings. The poly will go toward the crossmember. The pins that are problematic go up into the motor side bracket.
 

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I finally installed my mounts today, I cut down my CS top dowels to approximately 5mm and they seemed to good with no binding. Upon removing the driver side mount I find that it is separated and oil is coming out of it. Upon discovering this the top dowel chewed the aluminum bracket and made a channel towards the engine. I Find it interesting find that it would chew it when the mount was broken I didn't have a clue it was broken and there was no oil anywhere around until i moved it from the bay.
 
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