[cynot]

Was at the shop today and the replacement subframe arrived. I have to admit that I was surprized at the condition of it. After a thourough inspection of it I found what looked like it might be a crack but nowhere near as bad as the original. The shop owner said he ordered a couple just in case because you don't know the condition or wear on the used part. We decided to wait until the secone subframe arrives on Monday to pick the better of the two. I was okay with the one I looked at today, but I've already waited a week. A couple more days won't hurt. I'll post pictures when I see the other frame and decide.

 

[MrSurly]

I approve your decision.




(Just in case need a little back up)

 

[kittyboy]

Have them perform a die-penetrant test on all the flanges, I wouldn't accept a cradle that has any signs of cracking. It's at their expense to source a good cradle.

 

[RocketSled]

I kind of agree. If the replacement has even a hint of a crack, there doesn't seem to be a point in mounting it. Cracks propagate. If it's already started to crack, for all you know it'll let go completely the first time you stress it. Even if it doesn't, you're still driving on "borrowed time". Not a question of "if?" if it's already started to crack, just a question of "when?".

 

[V_Wagon]

How much are they charging you for used?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[cynot]

How much are they charging you for used?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

$250

Double posted to CTS Forum...



FINALLY! The third subframe sourced from a salvage yard looked pretty good. It still exhibited the poor machining process so I hand sanded the radius and performed a flourescent dye penetrant check using a black light. There was no indication of a crack. Even though the first picture looks like a crack, Dye penetrant showed no indication before sanding the area. I gave the green light to install. Shoud be up and running Tuesday. I love my wagon, but this whole process has got me thinking about selling. I'm just not sure I can recoup my losses. So far I'm about $3K in this repair alone, replacing the upper and lower control arms, struts on both sides and the subframe. Also just put new tires on it a week before this started. It's got 91K miles and its my daily driver.

 

[kittyboy]

Just make sure to install Norlocks, when it goes for alignment insure they use the correct torque specs.

I realize 3k is still considered to be a decent amount of money these days, but with a V it is pocket change. I'm embarrassed to even give you a ball park on the 10s of thousands I have spent to date, I feel like a fool! haha

 

[cynot]

The shop doing the repair is also doing the alignment and I asked them about the norlock washers and they are aware. This shop specializes in lifted trucks and jeeps. I understand that about the cost. Mine is not a 'V'. I posted here to see if anyone had experienced the same issue. I appreciate all the input and support from this group.

 

[kittyboy]

The shop doing the repair is also doing the alignment and I asked them about the norlock washers and they are aware. This shop specializes in lifted trucks and jeeps. I understand that about the cost. Mine is not a 'V'. I posted here to see if anyone had experienced the same issue. I appreciate all the input and support from this group.

Forgot, still a nice car for sure! Good luck, most likely once you get it back up to speed you'll be able to enjoy it for a long time.

 

[random84]

I could have had the better part of another Wagon paid off, for what I have in mine. But, of course, there's very little else out there that you can drive for the same money that's as much fun. Even worse with the -can't-say-anything-bad-about-government-here inflation.

Just tell yourself you need to get your money's worth out of all those new upgrades!

 

[RobF300]

the smart money is investing a little into what you have and holding it for a few more years. Perform oil changes before it gets below 40%
seems everything new has some shit qualities to it like cam phasers, AFM failures, bad transmissions, etc

even the V6 in the CTS has some issue with timing chains?

 

[cynot]

the smart money is investing a little into what you have and holding it for a few more years. Perform oil changes before it gets below 40%
seems everything new has some shit qualities to it like cam phasers, AFM failures, bad transmissions, etc

even the V6 in the CTS has some issue with

the smart money is investing a little into what you have and holding it for a few more years. Perform oil changes before it gets below 40%
seems everything new has some shit qualities to it like cam phasers, AFM failures, bad transmissions, etc

even the V6 in the CTS has some issue with timing chains?

I understand that thought. It's a 2012 Premium 3.6L, RWD with every option except paddle shifters and I'm not even sure they were offered that year. I only use full synthetic oil and change it every 7000 miles. I read that the timing chain issues were only on earlier models. It runs great, I'm just a little apprehensive now about keeping it and having to do this all over again. I still have my 2004 SRX that we bought new, only 110K miles on it and about $5000 in repairs over the last 19 years. (Wheel hubs, EBCM, ABS module, transaxle. I'm not counting the regular wear and tear items; tires, battery, brakes, O2 sensors, power steering pump, window regulators, etc...