Cadillac CTS-V Forum banner
1 - 20 of 20 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
354 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Started up the V today and I heard the “power steering fluid low noise.” Looked at the dash and it was saying service power steering. Put fluid in because it was a little low. Started it back up and the steering was fine but I still heard the noise. Checked the dash again and it said battery saving mode. I have read that it’s a possible alternator issue that may be effecting the power steering pump. Any input would be greatly appreciated
 

· Registered
Joined
·
354 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Belt or tensioner issue? (I know that sounds obvious, but sometimes I miss the forest for the trees, so I assume others sometimes do, too.)
That’s one I didn’t think of since I don’t hear any squealing. Still doesn’t mean belts not slipping. Thanks for the suggesting.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Spearfishin

· Premium Member
Joined
·
1,720 Posts
Probably the alternator. What's the voltage on the DIC say?
 
  • Like
Reactions: Bigwilly1267

· Registered
Joined
·
354 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·

· Registered
Joined
·
354 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·

· Registered
Joined
·
354 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·

· Premium Member
Joined
·
17,903 Posts
Thankfully, they're cheap and easy to replace! :D
 

· Registered
'14 Coupe
Joined
·
560 Posts
Thankfully, they're cheap and easy to replace! :D
After your 2nd time they do get easier 🤣
I've never had cars "eat" alternators like V does, wonder if maybe it's a QC issue ?
I would check the voltage at the alt as well, and check the little ring thingy (whatever it's name is) on the battery cable in the trunk, it measures the voltage, and essentially tells the alt to start pumping out more, or less. Even thu in these cars 90% of the time it's the alt that will go bad, and will possibly wipe out the battery as well.
 

· Registered
2010 CTS-V sedan, M6
Joined
·
217 Posts
After your 2nd time they do get easier 🤣
I've never had cars "eat" alternators like V does, wonder if maybe it's a QC issue ?
I would check the voltage at the alt as well, and check the little ring thingy (whatever it's name is) on the battery cable in the trunk, it measures the voltage, and essentially tells the alt to start pumping out more, or less. Even thu in these cars 90% of the time it's the alt that will go bad, and will possibly wipe out the battery as well.
I had a 6L F350 that averaged 15-20k miles per alternator. I put 250k miles on the truck (40k per year), so I had the chance try different brands, two different rebuild shops, etc. Nothing seemed to make a difference. Luckily it was a 15 minute parking lot job with only three bolts...right up on top. As soon as the light started flickering in the dash, I'd just grab the spare from the toolbox and pop it on.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
5,135 Posts
What about aftermarket like DC Power? Pricey but good quality from what I hear.
Only use OEM or rebuilt OEM alternators.
I have a lot of experience with the Gen II regular CTS and some experience with the V. I have not had to do any repairs to my V as of yet, but I have been involved with the CTS family for 12 years. The regular Gen II CTS will only play well with the OEM alternator or rebuilt OEM. ONLY. Many have used aftermarket and those folks have become experienced at how to remove and replace alternators.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
354 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Man that dang alternator was a headache. Fixed the power steering issue and the other codes but the codes keep coming back. P0030, p0040, p0443 and a CIL. Also the temperature goes all the up and I get a engine overheat. Turn the car off or reset and everything is back to normal immediately. Start the car and it’s running great. I have blown the emm1 fuse two times though. I read I may need to change my O2 sensors, so I’m going to try that also.
 
1 - 20 of 20 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top