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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I been having some coolant issue that I been working with in my other thread but that was for a starter issue so I thought I’d make a new thread for the coolant issue.

I had to remove the two coolant lines that run across the passenger side manifold to get clearance and I then tried to get the air out of the system but the coolant temp needle would still bounce around and go back down to 160.

I took it to the dealer and had them flush the coolant system and the problem is still occurring.

The car will heat up to half way but when I start driving it starts to drop all the way back down to 160 . Then when I get to a light it will starts to bouncy up to half. It might stay there for a little while driving but always ends up going back down to
 

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Have you checked to make sure you have a tight connection to the sensor on the driver's side head?
 

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Might be worth checking. Unplug it and plug it back in.
 

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if u can monitor coolant temps in digital readout see how it moves as temp dosnt skip numbers it goes up n down gradually, if u see it skipping numbers it sounds like sensor issue, had mine jumping 3-5 deg at once when it played up and sensor is a cheap fix to try too
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Haven’t had a chance to check the sensor but today when I was in the store I left the car running with my wife in the car for about 15-20 mins and came back out to the coolant temps almost to the red and the oil temp past half going toward red.

Once I drove it the temps started to drop back to normal temps.

Seems to be more then a sensor issue and something isn’t cooling correctly. Maybe the T stat isn’t opening ?
 

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It sounds like either all of the air isn’t bled out of the cooling system, or your cooling fans are not coming on, only moving air across the radiator when moving. Could be a fan relay controlled by the ECM or a coolant temp sensor (located on the driver side of the water pump manifold under the throttle body).

I would check the coolant level first since it is the easiest. When the temperature of the coolant goes up, I would look and see if the fans are running.
 

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Do you have one of those obd plug wireless readers hooked up? I ask cause i had one and it kept messing with the coolant temperature gauge. Also check for the fan resistor, i had one fail on a base CTS and the dealer couldnt figure it out. It would do the same thing in traffic it would jump cut off AC then as i drove away it was fine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Do you have one of those obd plug wireless readers hooked up? I ask cause i had one and it kept messing with the coolant temperature gauge. Also check for the fan resistor, i had one fail on a base CTS and the dealer couldnt figure it out. It would do the same thing in traffic it would jump cut off AC then as i drove away it was fine.
No OBD. Plugged in . I haven’t had a chance to drive the car and check to see if the fan is kicking off but I’m going to try this weekend now that the temps are in the 80s over here
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Update

Drove it today ... engine temp and coolant temps got to about half . Checked to see if the fan was running and it wasn’t . Not sure when it should kick on.

Going to drive it a bit longer and let it idle and see if it try’s to overheat and if the fan will kick on .
 

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Let it sit and run at idle and see if the fans come on as the temperature comes up. The car may not get the water temperature hot enough to turn the fans on when moving with air flowing through the radiator.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
This is def a separate issue then just air in the lines. I had the coolant system flushed a few weeks ago and the issue still remained.

Today I took it for a drive to get temps up and everything was ok till I went into a drive thru... engine temp and coolant temps shot up to red . Right when I pulled out I got a engine over heat warning idle engine.

Popped the hood and no fan running . Turned off the car and waited a good min. When I turned the car back on the temps had seem to
Dropped back down to around half . Went to drive the car and it was sputtering and not sounding good at all ... then I got the stabilitrack /diff. CEL. Parked it and towed it home.

Having it towed to the dealer. If it’s related to something I did when changing the starter then I’ll just have to eat the cost but doesn’t seem to make sense when all I did was remove the coolant hoses to get better access and then flushed the system after .

Just going to have to see .
 

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just thinking u should have tried turning the a/c on when it was hot as that should have cranked the fans on so if that fixed it then maby the fans arnt working at all if they didnt come on with the a/c or if they did then the engine fans have control issues, i think they have fan 1 and 2 for engine and a/c is a fan 3 setting even if its the same fan its different settings
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Just an update to this ...

The coolant issue was just an underlying issue that had nothing to do with removing the hoses or any air in the system .

The engine ended up giving out and losing cylinder 2 and 7 ? The dealership said it was a “full engine loss” luckily still covered under my power train warranty. I pick the car back up tmw
 

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Just an update to this ...

The coolant issue was just an underlying issue that had nothing to do with removing the hoses or any air in the system .

The engine ended up giving out and losing cylinder 2 and 7 ? The dealership said it was a “full engine loss” luckily still covered under my power train warranty. I pick the car back up tmw
Holy shit. You modded?
 

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Just an update to this ...

The coolant issue was just an underlying issue that had nothing to do with removing the hoses or any air in the system .

The engine ended up giving out and losing cylinder 2 and 7 ? The dealership said it was a “full engine loss” luckily still covered under my power train warranty. I pick the car back up tmw
Good thing you still have the warranty to cover that replacement. What was the reason for cylinder loss?
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Good thing you still have the warranty to cover that replacement. What was the reason for cylinder loss?
Well I think there is still an underlying issue with the coolant temps. It over heated and I think caused the engine issue. But after getting the car back I have noticed that when ever the oil temps go above 230 and come to an idle the car can’t cool and it climbs but if it’s below the 230 the car will cool down to about 205ish.

Dropped the car back off today to have them investigate this overheating issue
 

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Are you seeing these high oil temps while tracking or during normal driving? If normal driving, something definitely seems wrong..
 
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