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First an intro... new V3 owner here! Coming from a built C6Z (needed a family car, lol!)

Bone stock for now, but want to sort out the seemingly common WOT rear stability issues before adding power. I'm about to pull the trigger on a Carlyle control arm set as my first mod.

Is this something I can do in my garage? Can the lengths be feasibly eyeballed and matched to length of the stock stamped parts? This all seems fairly straightforward on jack stands, but there are no V directions available yet (they only provide ZL1 directions).

Anyone done this install? Simple enough for the average DIY home mechanic?

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I would venture to say the determining factor is how close you are to your favorite alignment shop. You should be able to eye ball/measure and replicate, and get it in for a fine tuning right away to avoid weird characteristics or uneven tire wear.
 

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2017 Cadillac CTS-V
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First an intro... new V3 owner here! Coming from a built C6Z (needed a family car, lol!)

Bone stock for now, but want to sort out the seemingly common WOT rear stability issues before adding power. I'm about to pull the trigger on a Carlyle control arm set as my first mod.

Is this something I can do in my garage? Can the lengths be feasibly eyeballed and matched to length of the stock stamped parts? This all seems fairly straightforward on jack stands, but there are no V directions available yet (they only provide ZL1 directions).

Anyone done this install? Simple enough for the average DIY home mechanic?

View attachment 154704
I'm lowered, but I installed mine myself. Tried to keep the lengths as close to the stock parts as I could using a tape measure. Marked the positions of the alignment bolts against the frame. Took it straight to a performance shop for alignment and tires. There is NO WAY you're going to get the geometry right without getting a four-wheel alignment.

Also, beware the upper stabilizer arm bolt at the top of the right rear knuckle. Mine backed out over time, and bent. Issue was that the aluminum bushings on either side of the outboard heim joint were in contact/interference of each other within the center of the joint when installed, and spalled instead of rotating freely. That interference under repeated compression allowed the outer heim bushing to worked the bolt loose from the head. Solve was to insert a washer between the 2 bushings inside the joint to separate them and allow independent movement of each.
 
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