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Clutch Hose Upgrading Information

707 Views 0 Replies 1 Participant Last post by  MrSurly
I'm rushing in to answer the questions no one has asked; "What's up with the V2 's weird-ass clutch hose?' and "Why does the hose have quick connects connected to other quick connects? or "where do I find out what fittings I will need to build my own?" "What if I want to use a different slave?" "can I just swap the OEM hose over to the Camaro slave?"

The clutch hose setup on the V2 is pretty unusual when compared to a bunch of hoses for other LS setups.
The master and slave cylinders both have threaded connections and adapters screwed into these to convert from threads to a tapered quick connect (QC) fitting. Many if not MOST other GM slaves and MCs these days simply have the QC as a molded-in component of the casting without adapters. A possible explanation for this might be in the fact that the slave on the V2 is an alteration of the 'normal' slave in that they decided to do away with the traditional supply hose and bleeder connections and do this "no bleed" design. Since doing no-bleed would require that the single hose connection would necessarily have to be at the high point of the cylinder, instead of changing up the whole design and reprogramming the machines to make a new QC port in a new place... they just made an adapter to screw into the old bleeder port. Now they only had to remove a step from the program (tell it to NOT cut the original QC port hole) and thus, simplify. So, that might explain the weird slave but not the master...and why no-bleed, anyway? Can't help ya there. I dunno.

Besides the threaded ports, the hose ALSO has a weird oversized QC in the middle, itself attached to the hoses by OTHER QCs(?) I mean...what the hell?

Well, the weird oversized QC in the middle is a 'dry break' fitting. So, where other cars would have a one-piece hose, the Gen2 Vs (and C6 Z06 and a few others) have a dry break added into their hoses almost looking like an afterthought. THE FOLLOWING IS SPECULATION With most vehicles, as the engine package is assembled on the line, the transmission and the clutch hose and master cylinder are installed onto the engine/transmission package and charged with fluid and later, when the car body is dropped over the engine package, a worker then stabs the MC into the firewall and hooks up the pedal. With SOME vehicles, tight packaging (such as under the brake booster) requires that the MC be installed on the BODY before it gets mated with the engine package... so the dry break is added to the line and both the MC and the clutch slave are each charged with fluid separately. Then once the body and engine are joined on the line, the dry break is simply connected.

So, speculation aside, the pics will help explain what we are dealing with.

If you want to replace the hose(es) with a simple generic PTFE SS hose, there are two options:
A. Buy the kit from Tick Performance or
B. Collect the pieces and build your own.
In either case, note that the QC adapter is retained at the MC and slave if using the V2 slave.
I have provided the thread details just in case you would prefer to go threaded and do away with the QCs altogether. I haven't tried that approach. Note that the longer threaded adapter on the V2 slave has no gasket; it seals on the machined bevel inside the bleeder port. The short threaded adapter on the MC conversely uses an o-ring.

I need to add here that there is an excellent write-up regarding the MC removal and clutch replacement by @random84 that you should check out.
You'll note in there that MC removal involves grabbing the MC and using your Hulk strength to turn it clockwise a bit to remove it. I will add here that in order to gain access to the hose fitting and clip... you can alternatively turn it a bit COUNTERCLOCKWISE and you'll have increased access to the hose without removing the MC.

To change the slave to, say, a Camaro unit which has a traditional bleeder, the same choices apply.
for the OEM CTSV slave you'll need two of the 9mm adapters.
For the Camaro unit, the slave adapter is an 11mm piece. Tick offers this in their kit but not separately. I have found this 11mm piece on Amazon (natch).
Using the Earl's 9mm adapter, an Amazon adapter and a generic -4AN hose, you can do this for around half of Tick's price...but the real reason I didn't go with Tick's kit is that their kit uses a 90 degree hose and I didn't feel like that would work out very well in my application.
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