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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am looking to buy a cam for my 2012 m6 V.

I have a ported snout, CAI, long tube headers, no cats, and a Lingenfelter pulley.

It is a DD I MIGHT go the track once and a blue moon.

what do you all recommend? I love a good nasty idle, but want to make some vacuum and have good drivability.

I might do a flex fuel set up and cooling upgrades in the future.

any other recommendations?
 

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GPtuning 2.5 cam is working well for me.

Sent from my SM-N975W using Tapatalk
 

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^^^ THIS^^^
 
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Mine is my daily driver so I went with the GP Tuning level 2 cam. I'm very happy, but at times I wish I had gone with the level 2.5. I didn't because I heard another V with the 2.5 and didn't like the sound. In hindsight I think it was the exhaust that was on that V and not the cam. FYI I'm just over 700 rwhp on E85 so the level 2 with appropriate mods definitely works well.
 

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I am looking to buy a cam for my 2012 m6 V.

I have a ported snout, CAI, long tube headers, no cats, and a Lingenfelter pulley.

It is a DD I MIGHT go the track once and a blue moon.

what do you all recommend? I love a good nasty idle, but want to make some vacuum and have good drivability.

I might do a flex fuel set up and cooling upgrades in the future.

any other recommendations?
For whatever it is worth:

You wrote:
"I love a good nasty idle, but want to make some vacuum and have good drivability."

On these engines you will lose power, as well as drivability with
a nasty idle, as nasty idles come from reducing the LSA / LCA
numerical value. This increases what is called the overlap period
and is what causes the nasty idle. . . .

I would suggest you speak to Matt @ GP Tuning, as he
will help you understand what is best for you.

Good Luck!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thank you guys for the quick feed back!

I went through GP tunings cam post and it seems Matt is the go to guy for these cars.

My last build was an NA ls1 with a pretty narrow lobe separation. It was the sns stage 3 cam from tick performance.

The idle sounded phenomenal. However it did suffer from some drivability issues.

so to be more specific I want a cam that can support anywhere from 550-700hp with good street manners.

What are the specs on the 2.0, 2.5 and 3.0 from GP?

Also are there any other people I should consider or has Matt dominated the market
 

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[QUOTE="Harmacist, post: 2544702, member: 56901

What are the specs on the 2.0, 2.5 and 3.0 from GP?

[/QUOTE]

I don't know where it's documented, but the 2.0 and 2.5 are designed to be usable with the stock converter on an automatic. The 3.0 needs a higher stall. You have a M6 and someone more knowledgeable may be able to tell you if that impacts your clutch choice.
 

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Your not going to find any of the info on his grinds. Your best to either call or email Matt, he’s a great guy, responds fast. Tell him what your goals are and he’ll get you squared away with the cam you want as well as all the other stuff you’ll need to go with it for the install.
 

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Stage 2 here with 730 on 93, with guidance from Duck and Matt. Even for the uninitiated in car world, or someone who knows cars, they can "hear" the cam.
 
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Feel free to email or DM for more info on options!
May I make a suggestion Matt:
How about a 0.635" Intake lobe height, using a 2.0 Rocker Ratio.

Gross intake valve lift, before deducting for such things as valve
train flex and / or geometric losses would be 1.27".

At 0.050" of lifter rise. . .
Let's use an intake lobe duration of 285°, along with an exhaust duration of 305°.

Use a lobe separation angle of 117° installed at +2.8°.

This would really perk up his desire for a nasty idle,
as the overlap at 0.050" of lifter rise would be ~+61°.

Cheers..;)
 

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May I make a suggestion Matt:
How about a 0.635" Intake lobe height, using a 2.0 Rocker Ratio.

Gross intake valve lift, before deducting for such things as valve
train flex and / or geometric losses would be 1.27".

At 0.050" of lifter rise. . .
Let's use an intake lobe duration of 285°, along with an exhaust duration of 305°.

Use a lobe separation angle of 117° installed at +2.8°.

This would really perk up his desire for a nasty idle,
as the overlap at 0.050" of lifter rise would be ~+61°.

Cheers..;)
Would work good in a BBC lol
 

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Would work good in a BBC lol
Cam helps make about 1500 hp in a 500 in.³ engine at 10,500 RPM.

Engine has a static/geometric compression ratio of 15.2:1

Trapped compression ratio at peak horsepower engine RPM increases to ~17.2:1, because the engine has such a high volumetric efficiency.

Now that’s what we call Dynamic Compression ratio…

So that’s about 3 hp per cubic inch with an NA Engine, on gasoline.
 
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here's the thing- the car will need the tune revised for a bit and this can ONLY be achieved by road tuning AFTER the dyno tune.
If your tuner just straps it to the dyno and then sends you on your way you will likely not be happy if you are looking for something that behaves just like stock , and lets face it on a "daily driver" 90% or better of your driving you want the car to drive like its stock.
This can be said for any mods, but once you start with cam/heads and all that a few street tune clean ups are really necessary

It took me a few tuning sessions to get mine where I like it and the guy who I bought the car from claimed something like 8-9 remove tuning revisions for drivability. Meanwhile when I got it I could barely stand it. I dont get why some people accept shit tunes.
 

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here's the thing- the car will need the tune revised for a bit and this can ONLY be achieved by road tuning AFTER the dyno tune.
If your tuner just straps it to the dyno and then sends you on your way you will likely not be happy if you are looking for something that behaves just like stock , and lets face it on a "daily driver" 90% or better of your driving you want the car to drive like its stock.
This can be said for any mods, but once you start with cam/heads and all that a few street tune clean ups are really necessary

It took me a few tuning sessions to get mine where I like it and the guy who I bought the car from claimed something like 8-9 remove tuning revisions for drivability. Meanwhile when I got it I could barely stand it. I dont get why some people accept shit tunes.
I remember when I had my last tune done, it involved several dyno sessions, hours of road tuning, and then a couple tweaks at the track to get it really dialed in to where it had great street manners and ran well at WOT with correct shift points
 

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I sometimes wonder if my car with the gptuning 2.5 cam even has a cam. It's disappointing how well you can get it to idle (at least for sound). Very very street friendly cam with a good tune.

Sent from my SM-N975W using Tapatalk
 

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I remember when I had my last tune done, it involved several dyno sessions, hours of road tuning, and then a couple tweaks at the track to get it really dialed in to where it had great street manners and ran well at WOT with correct shift points
I'm at the sending tunes back and forth for road point...soon the track for those tweaks.
 
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I sometimes wonder if my car with the gptuning 2.5 cam even has a cam. It's disappointing how well you can get it to idle (at least for sound). Very very street friendly cam with a good tune.

Sent from my SM-N975W using Tapatalk
How it is tuned has a big effect on idle sound but in general all these wide LSA PD blower cams in autos smooth out in gear at idle compared to park or neutral.
 

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I sometimes wonder if my car with the gptuning 2.5 cam even has a cam. It's disappointing how well you can get it to idle (at least for sound). Very very street friendly cam with a good tune.
i think the idle is cool, lets you know something's up
Def does smooth out in gear too.
it did sound crazier when the kooks mufflers were still on it, these are stock mufflers

 
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