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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
So I go to swap out my blower for my stage4 ported blower and swap my cam sensor out and to no one's surprise the sensor broke off in the engine cover. Car is full bolts ons details in sig.
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So now that I have the front cover off the engine I'm wanting to at least change my oil pump and maybe do a cam swap. I'm torn between Lt1z 2.5 or btr stg3 tq. Or maybe I should get something custom?

Would I need to change lifters? The car is running 65k miles.
Is it that difficult to tq heads down properly on a boosted LS? My tuner advised me against pulling the heads because it's boosted and says I could lift a head.

I've pulled heads and installed them on a non boosted lS1 before.

For oil pump I'm wanting to go with 10355hv because my oil pressure dips to 22 at idle sometimes. If I need lifters I'm thinking about Johnson 2126 if that oil pump can support them and still raise my oil pressure. If not I want the 2116s.
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Should I be worried about this oil pump sucking the pan dry?

Basically asking what you guys prefer and advice for what will work best for my set up.

Future plans for 2 nozzles methanol, And maybe a bigger lower if I cam it. The car is 90% street DD. I want RR and drag it sometimes but not often. The car is also a auto.

Also I broke my ac pulley a bit any one have the part number for ati ac pulley?

Has any one tried a 2pcs cover?
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Maybe with some penetration oil you can pull it out. Mine did that, so I drilled a pilot hole, put a screw into it and wiggled it out.

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
I already pulled the pulleys and the cover off
 

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I wish someone would pop my cover off and angrily yank on my pulley...


Buy I'm married.

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Could have tried drilling but I didn't.
 

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2011 CTSV Coupe M BLK LSX376-B15
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Sounds similar to the rabbit hole I've been chasing around for the past number of years. Each time convinced I'm almost finished... Sorry to learn your having some issues, but at least your still at the stage your wife allows car parts in the house. As an artist I can also appreciate the juxtaposition of the children's furniture and toys.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Just trying to find out cam and oil pump people are running...
 

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2011 CTSV Coupe M BLK LSX376-B15
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Just trying to find out cam and oil pump people are running...
Maybe this might help you. I believe the stock LSA pump is actually a good pump. I'd recommend installing a sump tube girdle while your down there as well.

Trivia for comparison: The -B15 is stock with a GM LS1/LS6 6665 if you can believe it. The stock LSA would have been a better option in my opinion. The -B15 has an LS7 cam stock.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
I was thinking the 10355hv to pick up some psi so the car didn't drop to low into the 20s at idle. The 2126 take about 10-15 psi to operate.

I have the pick up tube girdle on the car currently along with the improved racing baffle.

I'm just worried about the hv draining the pan. So maybe I should just get the ported stock one.
 

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I was thinking the 10355hv to pick up some psi so the car didn't drop to low into the 20s at idle.
I have the pick up tube girdle on the car currently along with the improved racing baffle.

I'm just worried about the hv draining the pan. So maybe I should just get the ported stock one.
I think the stock LSA is a good pump for flow, not sure if you can just replace the PRV spring for higher pressure or if porting is required?
 

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I was thinking the 10355hv to pick up some psi so the car didn't drop to low into the 20s at idle.
I have the pick up tube girdle on the car currently along with the improved racing baffle.

I'm just worried about the hv draining the pan. So maybe I should just get the ported stock one.
So when I did my rebuild, I went with a company that did a blueprinted Melling 10355 (which is only higher volume pump) Precision was the company, not sure if they have switched names,? But the way the guy there who was a fluid engineer explained it to me.. You want the higher volume vs psi (and/or a mix of both), because you want to move as much new/clean oil over the bearing surface, and too much psi can rob power.
Good luck with your build.
Also nice lid, that $1500 price tag would be tough to get past unless it is gaining me hp/tq..
 
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GP Tuning Stage 2 and well in the mid 700s without a big chop.
 
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2.5 here and very happy with it. Ordered everything from LT1Z including the Melling oil pump, lifters, pushrods, gaskets, etc.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 · (Edited)
I think the stock LSA is a good pump for flow, not sure if you can just replace the PRV spring for higher pressure or if porting is required?
That's a good idea I didn't even think of that. I'm only looking to pick up maybe 10psi at idle. Plus 10-15psi needed to run the Johnson 2126 oiled axels.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Also nice lid, that $1500 price tag would be tough to get past unless it is gaining me hp/tq..
Yes I didn't want to get a new lid but ended up needing one. I wanted to go back to v brick and keep the front ports my set up is already there. The dms lid claims 15-20 HP and 20° colder iat2 over the zl1 lid. But I like the cleaner look of dsx although they didn't quote any numbers I would believe it would be similar to dms lids numbers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
not that there's, ahem... anything wrong.... with havin' a big chop
I want a noticable chop for sure.

I been thinking about new bearings. I was reading thru a few post seemed most people were just saving up for forged instead.
 
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