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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys I have a 2011 AT with 100k miles. I purchased the ultimate cam installation kit from boost district with other mods and just wanted to make sure I made the right choice as well as any recommendations y’all may have during the install or other things I might need. I was also curious and what is a rough estimate on what I would make on the dyno

These are the items I purchased:
BTR stage 3 torque cam
.660 lift platinum spring kit
BTR Chromoly 7.4 pushrods
BTR trunion upgrade kit with bolts
LS9 head gaskets
BTR LSX water pump gasket
Timing cover damper seal
Damper bolt
ARP head bolt kit
Front cover gasket
3 bolt cam gear
Timing chain dampener
Timing chain
Melling 10296 oil pump

2.5 upper pulley kit
8.6 ATI lower pulley kit
FID 1300 injectors
TR7ix with .32 gap
Fabtech HX
SMC catch can
Dsx flex fuel kit
160 thermostat
Green CAI filter
 

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Who is boost district?

Curious why you ordered from them and not one of the reputable vendors here who know this platform very well.


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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Who is boost district?

Curious why you ordered from them and not one of the reputable vendors here who know this platform very well.


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Decided to go with them since they sold the kit with just about everything needed. Couldn’t really find a kit that didn’t require me to find the other parts and add them. It was just easier I guess. The guys were super helpful as well. This is my first time working on a v8 so I was helped a ton. BoostDistrict | BoostDistrict custom turbo and supercharger setups this is the site I ordered from
 

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Ok. Tyler (Mont Motorsports) and Matt (Lt1z/GP Tuning tend to be very very quick with responses, know the platform very well, and one even tunes them regularly.

Matt did provide the correct pump number. It’s sort of unique to LSA in that you have piston squirters so you need the higher volume.


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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Ok. Tyler (Mont Motorsports) and Matt (Lt1z/GP Tuning tend to be very very quick with responses, know the platform very well, and one even tunes them regularly.

Matt did provide the correct pump number. It’s sort of unique to LSA in that you have piston squirters so you need the higher volume.


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awesome thank you! I’m making sure to take note of who would be good help with questions and parts.
 

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Ok. Tyler (Mont Motorsports) and Matt (Lt1z/GP Tuning tend to be very very quick with responses, know the platform very well, and one even tunes them regularly.

Matt did provide the correct pump number. It’s sort of unique to LSA in that you have piston squirters so you need the higher volume.


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Lt1z also does cam kits with whatever extra stuff one might need.
 

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awesome thank you! I’m making sure to take note of who would be good help with questions and parts.
Anyway to send back their "kit" and get with others?

How much HP were you shooting for?

Seems like you are going at it backwards, throwing in parts and wondering where you will end up, versus having a plan for a particular outcome.

The following is very helpful to see what combos have resulted in what HP.

BTW, how lopy did you want to be?

 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Anyway to send back their "kit" and get with others?

How much HP were you shooting for?

Seems like you are going at it backwards, throwing in parts and wondering where you will end up, versus having a plan for a particular outcome.

The following is very helpful to see what combos have resulted in what HP.

BTW, how lopy did you want to be?

I am currently working on just doing a pump swap. My goal was to get up to at least 700, did not want to go too crazy as i don't plan on messing with the bottom end just yet and this V will be my daily driver for a while. i purchased the vehicle with headers/CAI and a street tune installed. I wanted something with a good amount of chop and something that would be fun for sure.I did some digging and used the forum you suggested as somewhat of a guide a while ago. I will definitely take another look. thank you guys for all the recommendations and feedback.
 

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I am currently working on just doing a pump swap. My goal was to get up to at least 700, did not want to go too crazy as i don't plan on messing with the bottom end just yet and this V will be my daily driver for a while. i purchased the vehicle with headers/CAI and a street tune installed. I wanted something with a good amount of chop and something that would be fun for sure.I did some digging and used the forum you suggested as somewhat of a guide a while ago. I will definitely take another look. thank you guys for all the recommendations and feedback.
My guess is that you're likely to be mid 600s with out the heads...but others might feel otherwise...since that is where I was with pretty much the same set up, just GP Tuning Stage 2 cam which isn't as lopey as that BTR. Heads and blower with 103 got in 700s on 93.
 

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My guess is that you're likely to be mid 600s with out the heads...but others might feel otherwise...since that is where I was with pretty much the same set up, just GP Tuning Stage 2 cam which isn't as lopey as that BTR. Heads and blower with 103 got in 700s on 93.
I also have the lt1z stage 2 cam. I do not have headers, but do have ported heads. Ported stock TB for 620 on 93 and just over 700 on E85. For more lope he could go with the stage 2.5 cam and not push through the stock converter.
 
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Some info that might help. . . .

If these engines were efficient, a cam having a duration of 228°, at a lifter rise of 0.050", should easily produce well over 700 HP, 'IF' the cylinder heads flow (as they should with a 2.165" Intake valve) ~368 CFM.

In fact efficient NA Engines having that cylinder head flow, as well as the correct camshaft can make ~900 fwHP on an Engine Dyno.

The camshaft above should make good HP to ~6,700 rpm.

While it is not easy to get a cylinder head to flow 100 CFM / Sq" of valve area, which is about what 368 CFM is, as a 2.165" valve has ~3.68 Sq." of flow area.

I am not going to get into valve lift requirements here, as that is very dependent on not only intake manifold pressure, but also on the 'Density Ratio', as fitted against the cylinder head flow and velocity profile, as well as the camshafts duration.

However let's assume the head will flow 368 CFM.
In this case we use the entire valve area, not just a fraction of that area, such as the 90% rule.

=> (2.165^2 * 0.7854)= 3.68 Sq."

So while that might sound easy, but believe me. . . .
Even well ported, low port entry cylinder heads have difficulty achieving a flow value of 100 CFM per Sq." of 'Valve Area', the velocity across the valve seat, or MCA must be sufficient / but must not go into velocity choke, and the head must also have a well developed port.

Now let's solve for the velocity across the valve . . .
=> ((368 * 2.4) / 3.68)= 240 fps. <= This is a good velocity value for ported heads for this engine platform.
***The velocity across the valve seat will be much higher. That number will be dependent on if the porter, ported the valve throat???? The valve throat on stock heads serves as the Minimum Circular Area or (MCA) and is ~2.61 Sq." If we use the 90% rule, it should be ported to 2.98 Sq.". A good value for these engines is 2.87 Sq." I can assure everyone that 'Not All Porters' perform the above operation(s).

-Velocity through the MCA - Here we will see just a small increase in the MCA can make big differences-
1) With an area of 2.61 Sq." with a head flowing 368 cfm will have a velocity of 338 fps and will be velocity choked.
2) With an area of 2.87 Sq." with a head flowing 368 cfm will have a velocity of 308 fps. This 'Might(?) work / Depends.
3) With an area of 2.98 Sq." with a head flowing 368 cfm will have a velocity of 247 fps. This will work well with our engine platform!

How can one tell if the cylinder head has been ported?

Many Trick Flow Cylinder heads sold to members of this forum were the 255 CC LS3 Head.
When returned after so called porting, the ports still measured 255 CC's?????

So one desires at least three things when purchasing heads.
1) The flow profile @ 28" of Water Drop / The industry standard.
2) The velocity profile
3) The runner size given in CC's

So, port your heads. Look over both the cfm and velocity profiles and then carefully chose your camshaft. . ;)

Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
alright guys I’m constantly doing my research and recently spoke with the previous owner of my v. I know he mentioned doing some engine work getting done about 2 years ago. He sent me pictures of the work sheet of all the items installed. I noticed he had the oem Gm oil pump replaced. My question is wether it would be necessary for me to replace the oem with the Melling or if I would be fine. A lot times I’ve been told to replace it due to the miles I have on the v but if it was just replace approx 2 years ago I was thinking of just leaving the oem one and focusing on the cam swap with following mods. Just don’t want to overkill the project.

once again I appreciate the feedback!
 
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