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Callies Compstar 4" Crankshaft

2567 Views 52 Replies 11 Participants Last post by  Bigjsn250
Question for those that have done recent builds.
My car has been at a performance shop in NC for 8 months now. Car spun the bearings so I'm getting a rebuild, needed a new block and internals. Every time I call I keep getting told they can't find a crankshaft for my 416 build, a Callies Compstar 4" 8 counterweight crank.

Does anyone know if this is a national backorder thing that has been going on for a year? Are there others waiting on a crank too? Companies like Texas Speed show they have a crankshaft but I was told they are made from Chinese steel, not American made.

Its been a year since I started having the problem and 8 months for my car at the shop. Patience is starting to wear.
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Question for those that have done recent builds.
My car has been at a performance shop in NC for 8 months now. Car spun the bearings so I'm getting a rebuild, needed a new block and internals. Every time I call I keep getting told they can't find a crankshaft for my 416 build, a Callies Compstar 4" 8 counterweight crank.

Does anyone know if this is a national backorder thing that has been going on for a year? Are there others waiting on a crank too? Companies like Texas Speed show they have a crankshaft but I was told they are made from Chinese steel, not American made.

Its been a year since I started having the problem and 8 months for my car at the shop. Patience is starting to wear.
If you absolutely need a good crankshaft now, there is most likely one available from other sources, such as Ohio Crankshaft, Sonny Bryant, Moldex, Crower, etc. But they will be very expensive.

Moldex Will build you anything you want.

Years back I sent them a crank from a Mercedes that I wanted to stroke. Using my old crank for dimensions, they did that for me in less than 90 days.

Just call those companies yourself!
Also, check up on the Summit Racing Equipment site.

Good Luck,
Bruce
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Question for those that have done recent builds.
My car has been at a performance shop in NC for 8 months now. Car spun the bearings so I'm getting a rebuild, needed a new block and internals. Every time I call I keep getting told they can't find a crankshaft for my 416 build, a Callies Compstar 4" 8 counterweight crank.

Does anyone know if this is a national backorder thing that has been going on for a year? Are there others waiting on a crank too? Companies like Texas Speed show they have a crankshaft but I was told they are made from Chinese steel, not American made.
First, 4" cranks ARE available.
but I feel your pain... my build spanned a year, mostly due to 10 months waiting on a blower.

The Compstar crank you are waiting on is surprise made in China.
It sounds like you weren't aware.
EVERY entry-level-priced crankshaft out there is made in China with Chinese steel. Some are forged and rough cut there and sent to the US for final finishing...but most are wholly made and finished there.
US made cranks From the 'ore to the store' will cost you over 3000 dollars. Just to give you a metric to help with shopping.
Compstar is Callies' entry-level brand. All of the Compstar products are imported. Callies Ultra Billet and Callies Magnum cranks are likely available, but will be a lot more money.
TSP's Chinese steel is not likely different from Callies' Chinese steel. Or Molnar's or K1's or Eagle's or dozens of others.

I found that Dart and Brodix both offer a billet 4340 4" fully counterweighted crank that seems like a good unit. I made some calls, talked to a couple of builders who swear by the Brodix version. These are also imported.
I went with the Brodix unit.

The Compstar you seek is on the shelf at Summit. IF this is the exact one you need... you'll have to verify the details.
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I used a Molnar when I did my TA LSA - stroked to a 427. The owner used to work for many of the big shops, then went out on his own. I've had good luck with it. Too many guys had failures with the ones you listed.

I wish there was a way to gauge or directly measure the quality of the steel used in Chinese cranks. Whether it's the least expensive Eagle, K1 or the more expensive Compstar , Molnar, Dart, Brodix etc.
For all we can tell over here, they might all roll out of the same forge.
The better ones are simply finished here in America after passing a rigorous testing of the raw foraging. Ohio Steel, Sonny Bryant and Crower all use a high grade USA steel, but you pay for it.
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The better ones are simply finished here in America after passing a rigorous testing of the raw foraging. Ohio Steel, Sonny Bryant and Crower all use a high grade USA steel, but you pay for it.
Callies does too on the US Forgings
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Callies does too on the US Forgings
It's no real easy to tell which Callie's cranks are all or part USA built. They used to have a page online explaining the COO on various lines but I can't see it now. Also, their catalog no longer even lists their Dragonslayer USA cranks.
Callies does too on the US Forgings
Thanks, you just confirmed what I’ve read / heard from a few other people..😊

I have never used them so did not know!

I pretty much worked with Ohio, Bryant and Crower because of the RPM our engines worked in.
Thanks, you just confirmed what I’ve read / heard from a few other people..

I have never used them so did not know!

I pretty much worked with Ohio, Bryant and Crower because of the RPM our engines worked in.
The upper level Callies parts are up there with those. Winberg is prob the best if budget is non existent
The upper level Callies parts are up there with those. Winberg is prob the best if budget is non existent
I have never used a Winberg Crank, but have
only heard good things about them from highly
qualified machinists.

The best of the best is Crower, Bryant, Moldex and Wiberg though.
I particularly like Crower's steel rocker arm systems.

Bryant's cranks can get very expensive also.
He does custom 'Billet' Cranks also. . . Big $$$...lol

He is really is really into controlling windage with his better cranks.

---------------------------------------

Getting a cheap crankshaft that has taper, or has the radius' ground wrong, can result in taking out engine bearings.
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I have not used this crankshaft from Ohio Crankshaft Company. But I have never had problems with the ones that I have used. These people keep around 1200 cranks in stock, most of the time.


Chevrolet LS Series - Billet Crankshafts
Part NumberModelPrice
43463622BBillet LS 3.622" Stroke, 24x or 58x Reluctor
Center Weighted
$1,475.00
43464000BBillet LS 4.000" Stroke, 24x or 58x Reluctor
Center Weighted
$1,475.00
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I have not used this crankshaft from Ohio Crankshaft Company. But I have never had problems with the ones that I have used. These people keep around 1200 cranks in stock, most of the time.


Chevrolet LS Series - Billet Crankshafts
Part NumberModelPrice
43463622BBillet LS 3.622" Stroke, 24x or 58x Reluctor
Center Weighted
$1,475.00
43464000BBillet LS 4.000" Stroke, 24x or 58x Reluctor
Center Weighted
$1,475.00
Thanks for posting this. It looks like I'm back in the market for a crank(!)
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Thanks for posting this. It looks like I'm back in the market for a crank(!)
Actually I was thinking of you as well as the OP when I posted it… Lol

Give them a call and see what they say.

However, if you are considering purchasing a crank from them, after speaking with them, please let me know, as I would want to call them for you and be sure you’re getting what you need.

Please don’t forget to have your complete reciprocating assembly balanced,

If you do not end up locating an oiling issue, attempt to locate a crankshaft regrinding company close to you.

Large engine engine rebuilding facilities also have crankshaft grinding equipment, as I did.

We want to get a micrometer on the good journals and measure taper.

I also want to be sure the radius‘ were cut correctly on your old crank.

I am perplexed, as you pay great attention to detail.

If the oil pump pick up was installed correctly then I’m beginning to think we should look deeper into that engine.

As Matt pointed out in an earlier post, detonation can destroy engine bearings.
Good Call..😊

I don’t believe the moderate self detonation issues with number eight damaged the crank bearings. That piston shows typical damage found in a high horsepower LS engine, as the two rear cylinders run hot.

The more power and engine puts out, the more heat it generates.

As a high-performance engine moves down the dragstrip the heat generated in the block rises extremely quickly!

See if a local high-performance machine shop can do a vacuum test for you on that cylinder head to be sure you have sufficient valve seal. If they have that sort of equipment, then they should also be able to check the run out on the valve seats.

I really feel for you man…😥
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First, 4" cranks ARE available.
but I feel your pain... my build spanned a year, mostly due to 10 months waiting on a blower.

The Compstar crank you are waiting on is surprise made in China.
It sounds like you weren't aware.
EVERY entry-level-priced crankshaft out there is made in China with Chinese steel. Some are forged and rough cut there and sent to the US for final finishing...but most are wholly made and finished there.
US made cranks From the 'ore to the store' will cost you over 3000 dollars. Just to give you a metric to help with shopping.
Compstar is Callies' entry-level brand. All of the Compstar products are imported. Callies Ultra Billet and Callies Magnum cranks are likely available, but will be a lot more money.
TSP's Chinese steel is not likely different from Callies' Chinese steel. Or Molnar's or K1's or Eagle's or dozens of others.

I found that Dart and Brodix both offer a billet 4340 4" fully counterweighted crank that seems like a good unit. I made some calls, talked to a couple of builders who swear by the Brodix version. These are also imported.
I went with the Brodix unit.

The Compstar you seek is on the shelf at Summit. IF this is the exact one you need... you'll have to verify the details.
For the last few months, I have been getting worried. Your reply has me wondering if I'm being lied to.
I drove there a month ago to put eyes on my car and to talk in person.
I told them I was okay with a more expensive crank. Was told they would see what they could find, re-do my build quote and get me a call. That was a month ago, no call as usual. They never call me back.

I'm going to call tomorrow, make sure I have all the correct specs for the crank, and find one myself with the companies you guys recommended. I want my car back so bad now, I am willing to pay more.
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While on the subject, I called Crower, I called Winberg, i left messages at a couple others.
I wanted to know what it would cost to get a legit USA FORGED-USA FINISHED 8-counterweight 4" LS crank. A lot of Ohio's stuff is straight off the boat, but SOME stuff they machine here.
Windberg said they could build the crank, but--- $3710... and 7 (SEVEN) months out.
Crower said they do not even HAVE a CCW forging die/pattern/slug/whatever it's called to be able to forge a CCW 4" crank. They could do a billet* ccw but "you're way over five grand then". No timeline mentioned.
The Callie's Magnum is the cheapest at 3570 but they aren't stocked anywhere I've checked... but likely still the quickest to get.

That crank that I linked at summit now says "one left"...
All of these are the reasons that pretty much EVERYbody is running Chinese cranks.
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OP. First time poster here. I feel your pain on the shop. I had mine in and nothing happened so I took my stuff and went somewhere else to have it completed. Cost 2x as much to complete as originally expected since 1st shop had lost so much stuff. Best of luck, and some of us have been in your shoes.
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While on the subject, I called Crower, I called Winberg, i left messages at a couple others.
I wanted to know what it would cost to get a legit USA FORGED-USA FINISHED 8-counterweight 4" LS crank. A lot of Ohio's stuff is straight off the boat, but SOME stuff they machine here.
Windberg said they could build the crank, but--- $3710... and 7 (SEVEN) months out.
Crower said they do not even HAVE a CCW forging die/pattern/slug/whatever it's called to be able to forge a CCW 4" crank. They could do a billet* ccw but "you're way over five grand then". No timeline mentioned.
The Callie's Magnum is the cheapest at 3570 but they aren't stocked anywhere I've checked... but likely still the quickest to get.

That crank that I linked at summit now says "one left"...
All of these are the reasons that pretty much EVERYbody is running Chinese cranks.
Wow, this really sucks! My builder said they didn't want to use the Chinese stuff, I wonder if they would if I asked.
Has everyone had pretty good luck with the Chinese cranks?
OP. First time poster here. I feel your pain on the shop. I had mine in and nothing happened so I took my stuff and went somewhere else to have it completed. Cost 2x as much to complete as originally expected since 1st shop had lost so much stuff. Best of luck, and some of us have been in your shoes.
Thanks for that man. I have been avoiding having to do that but I have been getting no communication, I mean none! Even when I am promised a call back, nothing for weeks/months until I call again. I'm really trying to be patient and understanding.
I really hate to go get a car in pieces. Engine pulled, supercharger has been sent to Kong for the Port X, transmission sent for a Level II re-build.
For what it‘s worth I had my engine built in 2017 by LME with a complete Callies Compstar 416 rotating assembly utilizing the stock LSA block.

History:
The build originally made 657whp and 657wtq (93 octane) using the stock 1.9 Blower. I then added a Maggy 2300 and E85 in 2018 and the power increased to 769whp and 807wtq. I kept it like this until early 2020 when I added the Kong 2650. With the 2650 the power increased to just 832whp and 769wtq due to stock heads, a conservative cam, and a conservative pulley combo due to the limitations of my fueling system.

In October 2021 the car went under the knife again and the power increased to 889whp and 799wtq with the addition of a Fore Fuel system, custom stroker cam and Frankenstein M311 heads (Pulley ratio speed unchanged). Very shortly after that build a suffered a lifter failure in Jan 2022. After deeper diagnosis and a Blackstone report, it showed that I had significant bearing wear and the engine had to be removed.

Upon inspection by the engine builder it was determined that the cam bearings was wearing and that is what lead to the lifter failing. Furthermore, the engine builder told me that the Callies Compstar crank and rods were in great shape and could be reused along with the LSA block. He just cleaned and honed the block, polished the crank and replaced all the bearings (cam and main) with looser tolerances for the power the engine was expected to make. I also replaced the Wiseco pistons with new Diamond S2K pistons as well.

Fast forward to Oct 2022 (after everything was completed), the engine made a conservative 951whp and 887wtq on E50. For this go around, I decided to increase the blower speed with a smaller upper pulley and added meth injection for octane purposes for when only 93/E10 is in the gas tank due to the amount of boost the blower makes (20psi). This is the current state of the car and I have not had any mechanical issues since this last build.

Both LME recommendation and the current builder recommended I keep the power below 1000whp for longevity purposes and that's what I plan to do. The builder believes the crank and rods can live beyond 1000whp, but the stock LSA block would probably fail before the crank and rods. Going above 1000whp and especially 1000wtq would be gambling and extremely risky with the way the torque comes in with a blower in the lower RPMs. A Callies Compstar rotating assembly could probably live a lot longer above 1000whp on a turbocharged/centrifugal setup as the torque curve is typically more forgiving than any positive displacement blower.

My recommendation is to source a more robust rotating assembly and an aftermarket block like a LSX if you can fit it in your budget and especially if you think you plan to exceed the magic 1000whp mark. Back in 2017 my expectation was about 680whp, so Callies Compstar was more than enough at the time. Haha...this platform has come along way since then as 680whp is nothing on this platform now.

Good Luck and don't settle for less or you will regret it down the line.
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A Compstar 8 CCW Crank is going to be able to handle what most around here do and more. It's not a bad piece by any means.
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