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Do the ends of this brick need to be reinforced?


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I haven't sold it yet!

Honestly I'm going to wait and see if the Kong Lid even shows up first.

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You changing will certainly give some solid info between the ZL1 and Kong. You have plenty of logs from spirited runs in Mexico and also just daily driving to provide the delta between them. You also have the IC pump and associated hardware that’s up to the task…


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You changing will certainly give some solid info between the ZL1 and Kong. You have plenty of logs from spirited runs in Mexico and also just daily driving to provide the delta between them. You also have the IC pump and associated hardware that’s up to the task…


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I think he should take it back to that dyno again so it can jump off and be off the road for a while again.


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I think he should take it back to that dyno again so it can jump off and be off the road for a while again.


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That was 1 year ago... yesterday. I still shudder at the thought!

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I haven't sold it yet!

Honestly I'm going to wait and see if the Kong Lid even shows up first.

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When it shows up I'm expecting lots of unbiased data. Halfway into 2021 and the arguments over this lid continue to rage on tardbook. I need to jump in on this ZL1 = gold trend. lol
 

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I mean I have data on pretty much all the options and don't have a horse in the race.
I saw you mention in another thread that the IAT sensor location is no bueno. If that issue is addressed have you had experience with these lids actually delivering solid cooling over your basic bitch ZL1 lid owner? lol
 

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I mean I have data on pretty much all the options and don't have a horse in the race.
I don’t think I have seen that. What is your conclusion?

Does the Kong lid work?

Is grinding the ribs off the stock V lid really the best thing ever?

Are there really little green men at Area 51?


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I would say that none of the 3 have shown best results in my testing done with various customer supplied parts.

The C&R brick(s)does flow the best of any option I have seen on the market for LSA/9 applications. Some other options I have seen flow worse then a stock brick. I didn’t make a video or spreadsheet or anything because I have nothing to gain from the results either way. Just data I have collected over time with customers on the higher end of the hp range trying different things.
 

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I would say that none of the 3 have shown best results in my testing done with various customer supplied parts.

The C&R brick(s)does flow the best of any option I have seen on the market for LSA/9 applications. Some other options I have seen flow worse then a stock brick. I didn’t make a video or spreadsheet or anything because I have nothing to gain from the results either way. Just data I have collected over time with customers on the higher end of the hp range trying different things.
So your experience is that the stock V lid with the C&R brick is the best all around?


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Talk about ZL1 = gold..
Wow!!

And I was about to buy one right when GM raised the price....
just think they used to be like $200 or so
but those crazy eBay listings are placeholders, when one of their other listings sells or runs out they just lower the price
 

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I would say that none of the 3 have shown best results in my testing done with various customer supplied parts.

The C&R brick(s)does flow the best of any option I have seen on the market for LSA/9 applications. Some other options I have seen flow worse then a stock brick. I didn’t make a video or spreadsheet or anything because I have nothing to gain from the results either way. Just data I have collected over time with customers on the higher end of the hp range trying different things.
As subi asked - C&R is the best around?


After my recent experience with the ZL1 lid at 19psi, I'm less concerned with flow and more concerned with durability.

Have you found any negatives with the Kong lid?

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As subi asked - C&R is the best around?


After my recent experience with the ZL1 lid at 19psi, I'm less concerned with flow and more concerned with durability.

Have you found any negatives with the Kong lid?

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With this news, you could always sell the Kong lid and make some money because of the price increase lol.

And then just keep the ZL1 lid, scrap the stock brick and buy one of the C&R bricks!
 
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Matt is notoriously cryptic in answering questions. :)

The Kong lid is EXPENSIVE. But, I sold the ZL1 lid for enough to where I am in it for around $1500.

That's not too far off the cost of a C&R brick, but with greater surface area. I'm not sure what kind of intercooler the Kong lid has.
 

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Matt is notoriously cryptic in answering questions. :)

The Kong lid is EXPENSIVE. But, I sold the ZL1 lid for enough to where I am in it for around $1500.

That's not too far off the cost of a C&R brick, but with greater surface area. I'm not sure what kind of intercooler the Kong lid has.
Random wrote:
"I'm not sure what kind of intercooler the Kong lid has"
--------------------------------------------------------------
Jesse, some months back you stated that Kong did not want
to discuss flow numbers. As I recall you stated; all they wanted
to discuss was IAT's.

Maybe you should speak to them again and ask them what
are their average customer seeing, regarding IAT's. . . .

As you know; one can increase boost pressure, but if the
IAT's rise. . . Your 'Doomed'.

Maybe Kong is telling you what you want to know.

As increasing boost, while maintaining a lower IAT
will produce more fwHP, while also helping to reduce
self-detonation. . . .

-while there are other variables to quantify-
Generally speaking; if someone offered me an intercooler,
with double the surface area of the one I have now, and 'If'
the mass flow rate and temperature across that intercooler
remained the same, I would anticipate lower IAT's.

Increasing mass flow, mass flow rate is one thing.

But if one ends up with a cooler Mass Charge entering
the cylinder, one is going to be able to achieve more HP.
will / should relate to more fwHP.

Cheers
 
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