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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
As mentioned in another thread, I've had issues with stock CTSV bricks. I've had two that had fins come loose. The first was the stock 70k mile brick from my car that I reinforced. It had some loose fins before I added power and got worse after. The second was a nearly new brick from a low mileage 2015 that I reinforced. It lasted about 80 passes before fins came loose. I'm not shelling out another $500 for a brick just to have it go bad again in a year or two. So, I bought the new C&R brick. Yes it's expensive, but so is the kong lid. I don't have a stock brick here to compare fin count, but if memory serves me correctly this is a higher fin density. Billet end tanks, vibration mounts and solid aluminum to seal on the brick gasket.

I expect my new motor to make 850 wheel hp. But there's no way for me to do a back to back with a stock brick. But I'll certainly give it a good abuse test.

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If it’s nothing else it sure is pretty. It fit under the stock V lid? I see you mentioned Kong.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
It's a stock replacement in the V lid. They have one for the ZL1 lid also. I'll assemble it later and take pictures and explain some of the other tricks in my lid.
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Ok, here's a bit more on my lid. Before the "that's a waste of time" crowd shows up; I'll start with, this isn't for everyone. For 95% of V owners, just bolting on parts is good enough to get where you want to go. For me, I like to get all the details. We focus so much on getting air into the rotors of the blower with intakes, throttle bodies and porting, but very few people ever think about getting air out of the rotors. This is my attempt at that. There are too many variables to get a quantifiable change for me. I don't have two of everything so I can't do back to back dyno or same day track testing. I have to pull parts off, modify them and go back to the track weeks, months or last year, almost a year later. Weather changes enough in most months to change your ET more than even 10hp would. I don't care to do a Kong lid because I like the stock look under my hood. I still run all the plastic covers.

I've done serious porting of my blower (see my build thread). Someone mentioned to me looking at getting more air into and out of the brick. So this is what I came up with. I spaced the brick off the lid 1/8" with spacers. This moves the brick 1/8" closer to the blower outlet, so I cut 1/8" off the brick gasket. To gain some of that space back and then some, I added a 10mm forced inductions intercoolers lid spacer.

My thinking behind this: Think of airflow as a series of pressure drops (resistance). Any time air has to speed up or slow down (change in cross sectional area), it looses a little pressure. Any time it has to make a turn it drops, for every mm of tube it passes through it looses some pressure. If you do your best to reduce all those turns, area changes and tube lengths you save some "pressure" or flow. So that's what I'm doing here. I'm lessening the turn out of the brick and opening up that curtain area for it to flow through.

I'm not sure if this brick is as tall as the V brick, it seems like there is more room between the brick and lid than with the stock brick. I’m debating if Im even going to do this with the c&r brick. But this accomplishes the same thing with a stock brick. Here's the space without spacers.
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Here's with spacers.
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When you space the brick off the lid, the coolant passages don't line up with the water manifold anymore, so I slotted the bolt holes in the water manifold and elongated the slot in the lid. The gasket slot here is what limited me to 1/8".

without spacers
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Here are the mods to the manifold. I added the 3/4" barb fittings and ported the water passages long ago.

slotted bolt holes
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Here's how the lid spacer and cut gasket works.
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As mentioned in another thread, I've had issues with stock CTSV bricks. I've had two that had fins come loose. The first was the stock 70k mile brick from my car that I reinforced. It had some loose fins before I added power and got worse after. The second was a nearly new brick from a low mileage 2015 that I reinforced. It lasted about 80 passes before fins came loose. I'm not shelling out another $500 for a brick just to have it go bad again in a year or two. So, I bought the new C&R brick. Yes it's expensive, but so is the kong lid. I don't have a stock brick here to compare fin count, but if memory serves me correctly this is a higher fin density. Billet end tanks, vibration mounts and solid aluminum to seal on the brick gasket.

I expect my new motor to make 850 wheel hp. But there's no way for me to do a back to back with a stock brick. But I'll certainly give it a good abuse test.

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...(y)
You were born in the wrong generation Mike.

That is what we use to call 'Hot Rodding'
back in the 1950's and 1960's..lol

Cheers,
Bruce
 

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How much is this brick? Looks great and the OEM ones seem hard to find now. If mine collapses I might buy this.


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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
$1299 list price. Or email Tyler (mont motorsports)
 

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How much are the KONG lid and bricks running at this time? While highly unlikely to ever happen, it would be interesting to log and compare the two on the same vehicle


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How much are the KONG lid and bricks running at this time? While highly unlikely to ever happen, it would be interesting to log and compare the two on the same vehicle


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Kong is asking $2500 - and he says prices may go up due to supplier cost increases. But you have to factor in new rails, so it's easily $3k to upgrade.

I'm taking the bet that the double (triple?) Surface area will pay dividends over an "improved" Zl1 style brick.

It's probably shaving hairs either way vs getting a better intercooler pump and heat exchanger.

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Curious why the C&R brick is so expensive. I have the C&R intercooler and it was less than half the price for a much larger unit.

Thoughts?
 

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Curious why the C&R brick is so expensive. I have the C&R intercooler and it was less than half the price for a much larger unit.

Thoughts?
Probably because the original is unobtanium and the next closest competitor is literally twice as much?

Damage a brick and you're stuck trying to find a shop able to repair it or you pay the money.

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Probably because the original is unobtanium and the next closest competitor is literally twice as much?

Damage a brick and you're stuck trying to find a shop able to repair it or you pay the money.

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Apparently size doesn't matter in this instance.

This is intriguing but the cost is $300 more than I paid for the Dedicated motorsports zl1 lid with all the mods and plumbing components.

But as stated above. This is not for everybody.
 

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$1299 list price. Or email Tyler (mont motorsports)
Oh shit...well in that case It wouldn't be hard for me to justify a Kong lid honestly at less than twice the price.

It looks nice but like random said, still the same surface area essentially as the stock unit.
 

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why cant i find this kong lid?
or is the $2800 one on the website the same one that used to be $2500?
 

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why cant i find this kong lid?
or is the $2800 one on the website the same one that used to be $2500?
It was $2499 yesterday. I know because I ordered one then.

I guess I was the reason he raised his prices! You're welcome!

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It was $2499 yesterday. I know because I ordered one then.

I guess I was the reason he raised his prices! You're welcome!

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Im gunna comment on your For Sale thread that you are a scammer who made me do buttstuff and didn't even venmo me the dogecoin you promised!
 

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I haven't sold it yet!

Honestly I'm going to wait and see if the Kong Lid even shows up first.

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