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Discussion Starter #1
Can someone explain how to change your brake fluid in the V.



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Suck out what you can out and replace it with new fluid. Then follow the bleeding process till you get clean fluid from the bleeders.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Suck out what you can out and replace it with new fluid. Then follow the bleeding process till you get clean fluid from the bleeders.
One more question does it matter which wheel I bleed first?



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Yes I remember seeing a thread about this and just bled my brakes. I went in the sequence below.

Right Rear Inner
Right Rear Outer
Left Front Inner
Left Front Outer
Left Rear Inner
Left Rear Outer
Right Front Inner
Right Front Outer

Edit: Found the thread Post #11
http://www.ctsvowners.com/forum/57-brakes/35700-brake-flushing.html
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Y'all just confused me, on this piece.
What is inner and outter?

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Discussion Starter #9

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What fluid are you going with? Just the OEM dot 3? or are you going to dot 4?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Which one is better?

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If you have access to a motive bleeder, it makes error free one man jobs quick.




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This.


It's worth the $60! Also have at least two big bottles of dot4. I used most of a single bottle just flushing/refilling the reservoir and getting the first, longest run in the system. The second bottle was for the remaining three calipers.

And check your reservoir often - nothing worse than rounding third and heading for home only to contaminate the system with air...

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Was searching around here a lot. Going with a dot 4 fluid. Damn cap says dot 3 but saw enough guys on here who know more then I do going with a dot 4.

Thanks for info.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Dot 4 is what I used.
 

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Is a one liter bottle enough for a whole system brake fluid replacement?
 

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You might be able to squeak by with one quart doing pump and hold method (2 people), but harder to tell when the color changes and fresh fluid comes out doing it one squirt at a time.
If you use a Motive bleeder get two quarts; as you need to keep some extra in the tank. I used about 1- 1/2 Qts.
Using the motive bleeder is much easier too. You can have a bright light shining behind the fluid as it's pissing out each valve and see the change in color from a honey color to the clean light yellow (Castrol SRF). Then you're clear to move on to the next....unless you still see bubbles for some reason.
 

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As a previous tech, pressure bleeding the best way to change brake fluid at a stead/constant/even pressure, its recommend to perform a flush every 2 years especially on stock DOT 3 fluid. the motive hand pump induces more moisture, and pressure changes too quickly, IMO requires you to watch and is too small as you want some overhead, and I guess is fine for a DIY, but I won't use it.

This my setup... works fantastic with 2bar pressure always connected the rubber membrane keeps the air on 1 side and fluid on the other, the adapters are what all the dealerships use, BTW for you M6 guys, the Mercedes Benz brake tool fits the GM clutch fluid reservoir allowing to pressure bleed your clutch. old school but works wonderful if you have a compressor.



https://www.amazon.com/GearWrench-3795D-Brake-Bleeder-Tank/dp/B003U459B8/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=1QQAQA6PANQ8U&keywords=gearwrench+brake+bleeder&qid=1553880445&s=gateway&sprefix=gear+wrench+brake+bl,aps,956&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Power-Probe-BAKIT01-Master-Bleeder/dp/B000P72CSQ/ref=pd_bxgy_469_2/142-2563826-5973948?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000P72CSQ&pd_rd_r=f0caaa80-5247-11e9-a577-3bbfcd35dc51&pd_rd_w=2bx3Z&pd_rd_wg=VpEaq&pf_rd_p=a2006322-0bc0-4db9-a08e-d168c18ce6f0&pf_rd_r=AM66TA08A2Q4BEZ5BM04&psc=1&refRID=AM66TA08A2Q4BEZ5BM04

https://www.amazon.com/Allstar-Performance-ALL11017-Bleeder-Bottle/dp/B00F9XHVKA/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=brake+bleed+bottle&qid=1553881070&s=automotive&sr=1-2
 
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