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Hello everyone.

I apologize as I am sure this has been discussed many times over but the topic yields results independently based on the users needs and wants so I don't want to read 10000 posts and still not sure what my answer would be.

I have to get my engine pulled out and rebuilt as I have either a bad block or could just be rings on a cylinder. My time is now more valuable than the money involved. I am already at my ceiling when it comes to this build/project.
I do not have high horsepower goals (I think between 600 and 650 isnt unreasonble) so replacing the block with a factory replacement is ok by me. However, if I am spending the money, I might as well upgrade to something more durable and bulletproof as I may want to increase HP later down the road by maybe buying heads and a nice cam.

I would like to re use my factory heads and accessories (pullies, alt, ps pump, etc etc) along with factory headers (for now) without having to modify anything.

Outside of a factory block and factory internals, what are my options here?

Thanks!
 

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LSA and be done with it.


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Yeah just rebuild your factory stuff, maybe have the rings gapped more towards a performance build. Even after heads and cam are added, you will be easily within the realms of dependability, as long as you go to a competent shop.
 

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Would you also say to just stick with factory internals or upgraded rods, pistons, rings?
Stock internals are fairly stout, forged rods are strong, HE pistons meh, stock crank stout, stock rod bolts meh, but all plenty for 700 whp


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Yeah just rebuild your factory stuff, maybe have the rings gapped more towards a performance build. Even after heads and cam are added, you will be easily within the realms of dependability, as long as you go to a competent shop.
Thanks. I will be eventually rebuilding the block if its salvageable. For the saving of time, I am going to just buy a short block. The rebuilding of the current block will actually end up in another project car (G-Body or 65 Impala) as I don't care how long it takes for those. I want to get this V going so I can work on getting it to a tuner like Matt.

Stock internals are fairly stout, forged rods are strong, HE pistons meh, stock crank stout, stock rod bolts meh, but all plenty for 700 whp
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I honestly don't see wanting or needing to go that high but...I've never driven a V in all its glory and I might get the urge to push it past that. Since I am going to buy a short block, which I am already convinced that is the route I am going, I don't want to look back and think...I should have....
Thanks for the info. It helps me since I am an enthusiast but not a mechanic or engineer.
 

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If you do e85, 700 wheel is easy with heads cam.
 

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If you do e85, 700 wheel is easy with heads cam.
I do want to be able to run e85. There are no stations near me but, I do plan on having a tune for 91 and for e85. I am planning to go with Matt's cam but, the heads I am not sure if I will go that far but....ya never know...and I wouldn't want to think...I should have gotten a stronger bottom end.
 

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Anyone know if the vin numbers are stamp on the block? If they are I’d argue keeping the original block with the car. A LS6 ‘70 chevelle is worth a bunch more with the original block and I bet in years to come a V would too.


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Anyone know if the vin numbers are stamp on the block? If they are I’d argue keeping the original block with the car. A LS6 ‘70 chevelle is worth a bunch more with the original block and I bet in years to come a V would too.
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I don't believe they do anymore but, In my case, the car is salvaged title so it really wouldn't matter if it was original 50 years from now. I'd probably be dead by then. :ROFLMAO:
 

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I do want to be able to run e85. There are no stations near me but, I do plan on having a tune for 91 and for e85. I am planning to go with Matt's cam but, the heads I am not sure if I will go that far but....ya never know...and I wouldn't want to think...I should have gotten a stronger bottom end.
I'm cam only with e85 and I run 9's and make 700ish whp. Given the opportunity, I wouldn't squander it with a factory rotating assembly.
 

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I do want to be able to run e85. There are no stations near me but, I do plan on having a tune for 91 and for e85. I am planning to go with Matt's cam but, the heads I am not sure if I will go that far but....ya never know...and I wouldn't want to think...I should have gotten a stronger bottom end.
A built bottom end is a good idea, but the factory bottom end will be sufficient for what you want.

You haven’t been around long enough, but a guy named Rob ran 1200 rwhp on the SBE for quite awhile. And when it finally blew, it was over 100,000 miles. He ran a pile of 1/2 mile events around 175 mph... I think...
 

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Talk to Matt, he will tell you what you want! Haha
 

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Anyone know if the vin numbers are stamp on the block? If they are I’d argue keeping the original block with the car. A LS6 ‘70 chevelle is worth a bunch more with the original block and I bet in years to come a V would too.


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Mine has the VIN stamped on it. Flat spot on the rear DS I believe. Thats the only reason I have it stored with the LSX block in the car.
 
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