Since you have HP Tuners you should be able to dial in your fueling. Of course figure out where all that oil is coming from first. What brand of catch can and how do you have it routed?
Blackness! Smoke under boost
I am trying to determine the cause of blue smoke under WOT, I have a catch can that was installed MAYBE 1000mi ago. The previous owner did not have one. I am seeing large puffs of blue smoke when I punch it. Also, my exhaust has ALOT of black carbon residue. I put plugs in about 1000mi ago as well, and I checked them the other day and saw they also have the black soot on them. It is NOT wet oil, and the catch can is working for sure. I am thinking about pulling the S/C lid and checking/ cleaning the brick. Could it still be residual from not having the catch can?
On the note about the lid, are those gaskets reusable?
On the note about the lid, are those gaskets reusable?
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Did you clean inside the supercharger lid before installing the catch can?
A compression test will not tell you if the rings are controllingI bet I had half a quart in there!! Wtf? Time to reevaluate my catch can.
the oil at live / running engine cylinder pressures.
The rings seal on oil trapped within little crevices in the cylinder.
The oil also helps lubricate those surfaces.
When you add too much fuel, the fuel dilutes the oil causing advanced ring and cylinder wall wear. This might be, I hope not though, the state of your engine now.
Sometimes the engine can be saved though…
After the tune is proper, change the oil before you drive it.
Then drive the car 500 miles, and change the oil again!
Also, there was a great thread recently on smog systems and catch cans.
Can’t remember exactly where, but I think it was within Surly’s thread.
Good Luck!
The issue so far appears to be the catch can routing. I saw a schematic on here but that was NOT correct. It had the passenger side valve cover going to the CAI, then the valley and drivers side cover going to the IN, then about to OUT. I put the valve covers Tee’d then to the intake. The valley goes to IN(dirty) , snout to OUT (clean).
I cleaned the crap out of the brick AND lid now. I’ll be changing the oil in the morning after I seafoam it (this oil has less that 1500mi on it). Then we shall see how it does. I’m wondering if the AFR wasn’t trying to compensate for all the oil.
i believe the oil ignites at a much higher temp then petrol so it dosnt get too calculated in the fueling by the 02's, its more so the oil only starts to burn which is why it stays mostly a sludge and builds up on everything, worth keeping an eye on fueling just encase it does a little tho as prob not sure what it was like before
Oil in the combustion chamber greatly lowers octane leveli believe the oil ignites at a much higher temp then petrol so it dosnt get too calculated in the fueling by the 02's, its more so the oil only starts to burn which is why it stays mostly a sludge and builds up on everything, worth keeping an eye on fueling just encase it does a little tho as prob not sure what it was like before
and can lead to generating destructive self detonation.
Also, as you most likely understand, when an engine is running rich the fuel might not vaporize sufficiently. This leads to droplets in the cylinder.
Now, the engine has to not only deal with droplets that are unburnt but are also preheated, as well as oil which lowers the octane level.
This leads to end gases that hide in back of the rings, which I’ve discussed before / just above.
Collectively, this can easily lead to destructive self detonation.
Cheers
The CAI intake is just to provide vacuum for the can (can out).
Sounds like it was sucking oil from the passenger valve cover.
At least you found it before it broke something.
Sounds like it was sucking oil from the passenger valve cover.
At least you found it before it broke something.
I have a related (but comparably minimal) issue in my build.
I n my case I know that I desperately need to add a fresh air source to my PCV system which I will do with a check-valved inlet.
I n my case I know that I desperately need to add a fresh air source to my PCV system which I will do with a check-valved inlet.
I'm with @07GTS on the valve stem seals. 130k on the engine with 150s psi across all cylinders with even compression is respectable. make sure if you replace the seals be aware that the intake and exhaust valves use different valve seal part numbers. That's a lot of oily plug buildup for only 1500 miles with or without a catch can. At least they are all the same.Ok here are the compression test results:
#1 150psi took to turns to get there
The rest took 3 turns to get to the max pressure:
#2 152psi
#3 147psi
#4 148psi
#5 149psi
#6 148psi
#7 150psi
#8 148psi
No evidence of leaking rings, or worn valve stems.
I decided not to do a wet test since the dry was consistent.
11.1 is very rich on an LS with boost, you can run leaner than that. That's AFR we used on L67s, and older late 90s stuff. Sounds like a Diablo tune, that's what mail order tuners do, run rich, add timing, sell the same potion over and over.
I need to see if someone with HPT experience can look at my tune on here.
Try @07GTS of this forum.I need to see if someone with HPT experience can look at my tune on here.
He is knowledgeable and helps forum members from time to time. . .
Attached is an image from one of my cylinders prior to valve seal replacement.I'm with @07GTS on the valve stem seals. 130k on the engine with 150s psi across all cylinders with even compression is respectable. make sure if you replace the seals be aware that the intake and exhaust valves use different valve seal part numbers. That's a lot of oily plug buildup for only 1500 miles with or without a catch can. At least they are all the same.
@kittyboy How'd you get your fingers in there? And looks like you lost part of your index finger.
Not sure I understand?@kittyboy How'd you get your fingers in there? And looks like you lost part of your index finger.
Your picture looks like fingers to me, minus part of the first one. So how did you get your fingers in the cylinder to take a picture.Not sure I understand?
CAI doesn't provide vacuum. It provides fresh air that has been filtered and metered by the MAF to replace the air and oil fumes pulled through the PCV or catch can.The CAI intake is just to provide vacuum for the can (can out).
Sounds like it was sucking oil from the passenger valve cover.
At least you found it before it broke something.
When I had DMS do the hand controls in my car, I had them do other stuff like replacing my catch can setup with one that has a drain so the oil change peeps can drain it for me.
They modified the routing so that the pcv no longer dumps back into the cai, just capped it off. Now the car is running a little rich. The stft trims are removing up to 10% at idle, they were really spot on beforehand, and im also seeing ~ .73 lambda on the wideband at wot. Time to break out the laptop and ill prob start with a combo of reducing the base running airflow a smidge and cutting 1% out of 9k+ on the maf calibration. Then log and fine tune.
I know this isn't the exact solution for the OPs original problem, but it is a similar issue with the catch can kinda and just thought this might be a good experience to share for other readers etc...
Best of luck to the OP
Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
They modified the routing so that the pcv no longer dumps back into the cai, just capped it off. Now the car is running a little rich. The stft trims are removing up to 10% at idle, they were really spot on beforehand, and im also seeing ~ .73 lambda on the wideband at wot. Time to break out the laptop and ill prob start with a combo of reducing the base running airflow a smidge and cutting 1% out of 9k+ on the maf calibration. Then log and fine tune.
I know this isn't the exact solution for the OPs original problem, but it is a similar issue with the catch can kinda and just thought this might be a good experience to share for other readers etc...
Best of luck to the OP
Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
21 - 40 of 44 Posts
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