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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
It’s my fun daily/family car when weather is nice.
mods: all the bolts on with ported zl1 lid , ported zl1 blower, ls7 ported snout, air raid, 850 IDs, cwa pump ,C n R heat exchanger, flex fuel kit, 3.5 upper pulley stock lower, stock cam.

i m going to pull the motor. While I have the motor out what should I replace or upgrade?
Forged pistons n rods
C5 r timing chain
Cam
Upgraded oil pump
Bearings

She holds good oil pressure . Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Was the block able to be honed/bored? Maybe it’s time for a prebuilt short block. Would iron block be better than an aluminum in terms of strength? Thanks
 

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Thompson, I think, has their engine still on sale. You decide if you want to go 388 or 427.
 

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What does the actual filter material look like?


Those chunks look ominous- bearings are shot and probably the camshaft.

Block might be salvageable but usually easier to get a new shortblock or long block.

Sent from my SM-G991U1 using Tapatalk
 

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Who sells forged iron blocks at a hood orice
I think a good 'Cast Iron' Engine Block, such as the GM lsX Iron Block, would serve
you just fine, as a forged engine block would 'Bankrupt' you for sure..lol
 
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Hood price??? Sounds like where I came from. Don't risk the hood price on the reliability of your machine.
G is right next to H. . . .A little interpolation goes a long ways on this forum.. :D
 

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I ended up getting a LSX block when I had a ring land break off. You MIGHT be able to get away with using your LSA but I found small cracks towards the top of my cylinders. You can only take 0.010 off the cylinders. You would have to have a really clean failure for that to happen as if any cylinder needs to be cleaned up more it is not possible without making it too thin. Sleeving the LSA costs as much as a new block.

Iron block weighs ~100lbs more but I am not that concerned in a 4200lb as is. The crank is good for a rebuild if it is not damaged. Everything else in the short block will probably need replacement.
 
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I ended up getting a LSX block when I had a ring land break off. You MIGHT be able to get away with using your LSA but I found small cracks towards the top of my cylinders. You can only take 0.010 off the cylinders. You would have to have a really clean failure for that to happen as if any cylinder needs to be cleaned up more it is not possible without making it too thin. Sleeving the LSA costs as much as a new block.

Iron block weighs ~100lbs more but I am not that concerned in a 4200lb as is. The crank is good for a rebuild if it is not damaged. Everything else in the short block will probably need replacement.
If I might ask?

What bore and stroke did you used to come up with the 393 in.³ engine?
Also, what size intake valve did you use?

Cheers
 

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If I might ask?

What bore and stroke did you used to come up with the 393 in.³ engine?
Also, what size intake valve did you use?

Cheers
Hey,
Thanks for all your great insight here. The engine shop by me (Merkel Racing Engines) had a finished 4.155 bore LSX that he gave me for a very good price because the customer that wanted it went a different route. I am running a standard 6.122 stroke, and am doing a 9.5:1 CR. I built the engine myself, my first such undertaking. I got some high-quality micrometers a nice bore gauge to confirm everything and size the bearings. The heads are the LSA heads with the standard intake valve diameter, I did a valve job on them and put double springs on them from Matt along with a stage 2.5 cam. I would like to get new heads one day but for the power I wanted to make, the 6 bolt heads were not necessary. Right now, it is running great, and if I were to go further it would be some port and polish work. This was enough of an undertaking so I did not want to go to the point where I had to replace the fuel pumps yet.
 
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6" stroke?? I think I just had one.
 
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Hey,
Thanks for all your great insight here. The engine shop by me (Merkel Racing Engines) had a finished 4.155 bore LSX that he gave me for a very good price because the customer that wanted it went a different route. I am running a standard 6.122 stroke, and am doing a 9.5:1 CR. I built the engine myself, my first such undertaking. I got some high-quality micrometers a nice bore gauge to confirm everything and size the bearings. The heads are the LSA heads with the standard intake valve diameter, I did a valve job on them and put double springs on them from Matt along with a stage 2.5 cam. I would like to get new heads one day but for the power I wanted to make, the 6 bolt heads were not necessary. Right now, it is running great, and if I were to go further it would be some port and polish work. This was enough of an undertaking so I did not want to go to the point where I had to replace the fuel pumps yet.
Sounds like a real nice conservative build..:)

The larger bore area of 13.56 Sq." versus the 12.98 Sq."
of the stock 376 LSA, will enhance low end torque, as it
will generate a higher depression across your 2.165"
intake valve at any engine rpm.

However, the cylinder head will also move into velocity choke
sooner, which will reduce peak HP Engine rpm.

Tell the wife you need a new pair of "Mast Big Bore Heads"
which have the 2.204" Intake Valve, and will cure the problem..lol

Cheers
 

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Was the block able to be honed/bored? Maybe it’s time for a prebuilt short block. Would iron block be better than an aluminum in terms of strength? Thanks
So I turned my crank/ block and rods .010/.010". we then went a little on the highside of the clearance tolerance with the 10355 Melling high volume pump.. Car works killer.. making upper 700 for couple yrs now..
 
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