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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys I’ve been building my V for a
Good while . I took it apart for a cam swap then other priorities hit & didn’t have enough funds so it sat . I finally saved some money & went full bolt ons , Aux pump , heads , zl1 lid , trunk tank & other parts . The car has been put together now for 3 months with just a start up tune while I did the trunk tank & aux pump . I had posted a thread of troubles with a fuel line & the dsx aux T so that further delayed . Anyways since those 3-4 months I’ve warrantied two oreillys batteries with bad cells the platinum line of their batteries . Any guesses on what could be killing the cells ? It doesn’t get driven just started . I’m finally starting tuning with DD & super excited but it sounds like I have a possible electrical gremlin .
 

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Do you keep a battery tender on it? If you’re just starting it, it's not getting charged.

I had similar luck with Autozone batteries. Changed to a Duracell from Sam's club and haven't had a problem since.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I don’t keep a battery tender but I use a nocco 1000m battery jumper & it seems like it will jump it once as it dying then it drains the nocco .
 

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Junk batteries, most parts store brand batteries are cheap reconditioned junk... Not that most others aren't at this point. What state are you in?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I usually got with oem batteries but I remember reading the ac delco batteries are not what they used to be . On my lightning i bought a oem motorcraft battery .
 

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I don’t keep a battery tender but I use a nocco 1000m battery jumper & it seems like it will jump it once as it dying then it drains the nocco
This is your problem. Car batteries aren't designed to be "deep cycled", where they're allowed to discharge completely between charge cycles. It doesn't take a lot of deep cycles to ruin the battery. If you're not going to keep the battery on a tender, you need a battery designed for deep cycling. Marine batteries are designed for this use case. But it's going to be a lot cheaper to just buy a battery tender and keep the car plugged in when you're not running it. If getting power to the car is a problem, there are solar battery tenders that will do the job for a slightly higher cost...
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
This is the battery I’m using . I’ve never heard of the seat module if like to say my recaros are working just fine .

152840
Screenshot Font Electronic device Technology Audio equipment
 

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Do you have a clamp-on Ammeter so you can see how much the car is drawing when it's shut down? That'd tell you if you had an electrical issue or not. (note: you can do this with a normal Ammeter if it can handle about 10A provided you are sure to test with the accessory power turned off).

The idle current draw should be under 50mA.

A typical car battery has about 50Ah of power. So a charged battery will be discharged in 50/0.05= 1000 hours = about 40 days.

Even if the idle current is as low as 25mA, you're still looking at only 80 days of capacity. And of course, the battery will be depleted below the point it can deliver enough current to crank the motor, long before it's completely dead...
 

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I use Delco batteries and have really good luck with them... They're 42 month warranty which should be an indication they're better than napa or parts store stuff.

I wish united auto would go country wide because they really do rock when it comes to OEM parts. I literally watch all the Chevy dealers around here picking up parts there. Figure that out lol.
 
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