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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm replacing my 3 1/2 yo battery tomorrow in my 2011 Vagon. I've heard horror stories about "reprograming" ICE, locks etc after a dead battery, up to and including flat-bedding the car to a dealer.
My battery is failing but still putting out ~12V. Should I keep 12v on the battery leads while the battery is removed and replaced to maintain the electronics' programming? Is there a reliable backup battery in the car that will keep things alive? I am worried in an 11 year old car that is addicted to computers the backup battery may be suspect or low voltage.

Anybody had any bad experience having the juice off line for 15 min?

Also, on that wicked RED battery terminal, is the little black lever just a 1/4 turn to the left (counterclockwise), and pull?

Replacing with an ACDelco 48GHR Pro Gold, in stock at my local O'Rielly's - $170.
 

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You're over thinking it. Just replace as normal.

Sent from my SM-S906U1 using Tapatalk
 

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I don't believe any harm will come if power is maintained however. Possibly a tender on the underhood leads. Do we have a 'relearn' process after a battery disconnect?
 

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Only relearn that I recall is the auto-up window feature which is a simple process.
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
You're over thinking it. Just replace as normal.

Sent from my SM-S906U1 using Tapatalk
Left it on a smart charger overnight waiting on the battery. This morning, the charger showed an error, which is usually a dead cell. The front door would open but the rear hatch would not function off the fob or manually open. The driver display now had a "Low Voltage" warning.
I put a battery on jumper cables on the under-hood terminals, and the rear hatch opened. The battery tested 10v...

The fuse block required removal to allow the removal and replacement of the battery. It appears to be designed for quick R&R. Two screws did it for mine - located at 12 and 9 o'clock. It has plenty of cable to swing clear of the area.
And answering my own question, a slight lift over the detent, and quarter turn to the left releases the big red + terminal.
Make sure to keep the little 90 degree plastic elbow that hooks the battery vent to the vent line. It is located at the top of the forward edge of the battery. My new battery didn't come with one.
The test ride was uneventful. My Bluetooth phone connection even worked. Clock needed resetting. Everything seems to be working in that fantastic CTS-V way!
 
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After replacing my battery I followed these directions and had no issues.

First, reset the throttle position.
After a power loss, such as disconnecting the battery or
removing the maxi fuses in the power distribution fuse
block, the following steps must be performed to calibrate
the electronic throttle control. If this is not done, the
engine will not run properly.

1. Turn the ignition to ON/RUN. Do not start the
engine.
2. Leave the ignition in ON/RUN for at least
three minutes so that the electronic throttle
control will cycle and re-learn its home position.
3. Turn the ignition to LOCK/OFF.
4. Start and run the engine for at least 30 seconds.

You will also want your power window auto up to work. Roll them up, hold the up for 5 seconds to reset.
 

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After replacing my battery I followed these directions and had no issues.

First, reset the throttle position.
After a power loss, such as disconnecting the battery or
removing the maxi fuses in the power distribution fuse
block, the following steps must be performed to calibrate
the electronic throttle control. If this is not done, the
engine will not run properly.

1. Turn the ignition to ON/RUN. Do not start the
engine.
2. Leave the ignition in ON/RUN for at least
three minutes so that the electronic throttle
control will cycle and re-learn its home position.
3. Turn the ignition to LOCK/OFF.
4. Start and run the engine for at least 30 seconds.

You will also want your power window auto up to work. Roll them up, hold the up for 5 seconds to reset.
That's what I was looking for. Helpful.
 

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I've replaced a battery that was completely dead for days. I just replaced it like normal and all was fine. Yes, the windows did need relearning but after a few commutes, all was fine

Sent from my SM-S906U1 using Tapatalk
 

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there is a key off power memory which is reset when battery disconnected, i have done mine with a smaller battery i attached to some power/earth points when changing over just as i dont want to re enter the radio stations and time and the entertainment settings again
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
After replacing my battery I followed these directions and had no issues.

First, reset the throttle position.
After a power loss, such as disconnecting the battery or
removing the maxi fuses in the power distribution fuse
block, the following steps must be performed to calibrate
the electronic throttle control. If this is not done, the
engine will not run properly.

1. Turn the ignition to ON/RUN. Do not start the
engine.
2. Leave the ignition in ON/RUN for at least
three minutes so that the electronic throttle
control will cycle and re-learn its home position.
3. Turn the ignition to LOCK/OFF.
4. Start and run the engine for at least 30 seconds.

You will also want your power window auto up to work. Roll them up, hold the up for 5 seconds to reset.
Thanks for these instructions. I will run them this morning.
Jeff
 

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My battery has died many times no issue. My car even had a super loose battery ground in the trunk where it would just completely die randomly worn it lost connection. It has no problem losing power except the auto up windows need to be rehomed (just roll the windows all the way down and up once and you good)


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I'm replacing my 3 1/2 yo battery tomorrow in my 2011 Vagon. I've heard horror stories about "reprograming" ICE, locks etc after a dead battery, up to and including flat-bedding the car to a dealer.
My battery is failing but still putting out ~12V. Should I keep 12v on the battery leads while the battery is removed and replaced to maintain the electronics' programming? Is there a reliable backup battery in the car that will keep things alive? I am worried in an 11 year old car that is addicted to computers the backup battery may be suspect or low voltage.

Anybody had any bad experience having the juice off line for 15 min?

Also, on that wicked RED battery terminal, is the little black lever just a 1/4 turn to the left (counterclockwise), and pull?

Replacing with an ACDelco 48GHR Pro Gold, in stock at my local O'Rielly's - $170.
I got tired of reprogramming everything in the car after the battery was disconnected, so I just bought one of these DSR Memory Savers and its has worked great. It keeps everything connected to the BCM powered up so when the battery is disconnected it doesnt wipe the memory.
DSR Memory Saver, OBDII Connected, 12V | 216225 | Pep Boys
 

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On my 09 the climate control & radio didn't work. So unplug the negative several times to wakes up the BCM and it worked.
I'm going to do this for the bluetooth phone connection. The Tunai works but a couple of weeks ago the phone, using steering wheel controls went TU...Tits Up.

Maybe doing this will reset it.
 

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If the battery is bad in the car but car still runs, it's probably smart enough to also withstand the battery being changed while the car is running. Done this in many other vehicles with no issues.
 
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