ARS LSA Tensioner

Belt slip isn't really an issue on the LSA thanks to Griptec pullies so there's probably not a whole lot of people lining up to buy a 650 dollar tensioner to solve a problem that doesn't exist.

That is what I figured. My OEM unit is tired, and this one looks pretty trick, so I ordered one. I'll share some pictures once I get it installed!

Definitely looks like something made to answer an unasked question.
However, if you find yourself in need of the tensioner idler pulley (76mm) you'll quickly find that the oem replacement AND the auto parts stores include the whole spring-loaded tensioner arm/mount assembly AND it costs $300. The best option for replacing the tensioner idler pulley is from DMS. They sell an aftermarket pulley that looks nice and will support a ten-rib belt (but doesn't require one) and that pulley is under a hundred bux.
Also note: the bolt on this pulley is LEFT hand -threaded. Ask me how I know.

Thanks for the tip on the pulley itself! I'm a sucker for billet. I did snag the DMS idler bracket and pulley to go with it.

MrSurly said:

Also note: the bolt on this pulley is LEFT hand -threaded. Ask me how I know.

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You and me both brother

I looked at this thing a long time ago. I felt it was overkill and the oem is available anywhere. I also found after a griptec pulley I don’t have slip. I am running 2.50/9.60 with 100mm Dsx and K080685 hasn’t slipped or broke yet and it doesn’t see too much easy driving. I usually beat the piss out of it every chance I get. Lol

With all that said I am still quite curious how it is. It’s definitely eye candy.

I had one of their tensioners on my grand national. They were the only option once the oem parts ran dry. They are good quality, but offered nothing above oem other than availability and maybe some unnecessary strength.

SaskV said:

You and me both brother

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I bought two of the replacement bolts…. want one?

Metco makes a nice billet pulley to replace the plastic one.. installs on the factory tensioner. Not too pricey at $129

SaskV said:

I just painted mine...

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I'm still embarrassed when I think about it.

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The silly bit is that the 'official' way to get the bolt (from GM) requires buying the entire 300 dollar assembly. I went to the local ACE and TV hdwe stores, then local industrial fastener supplier(s) and was told special order fee, around 30-40 bucks after freight. McMaster doesn't offer it (gasp!), Grainger doesn't, so of course....
I went to Amazon. They had it, but ONLY in a two pack!. So I ordered the two-pack from Amazon, delivered FREE the next day... for $10.19 just in case anyone wonders why Amazon is taking over.

Interestingly enough, the ARS uses a right-handed bolt. They also claim a 20% stronger spring. However, I didn't buy it for the function, just the aesthetics.

@MeanMike, thanks for sharing your previous experience. I was looking for others that had used the brand. I kind of went out on a limb with the brand. Reliability is important to me. I hope it's close to OEM in that regard.

SaskV said:

I just painted mine...

View attachment 164908




I'm still embarrassed when I think about it.

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That looks great! How many miles do you have on the car? The engine bay looks super clean. Is it just low miles or do you have a cleaning routine to keep it looking like that?

That is extremely clean! Very nice!!

Did you post about how you loomed and routed your Brick lines? I see you still have the T back there with a catch can. Do you have any photos more clearly showing how you set up those items/ran the lines?

atlctsv06 said:

That is extremely clean! Very nice!!

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Thanks a lot!

atlctsv06 said:

Did you post about how you loomed and routed your Brick lines? I see you still have the T back there with a catch can. Do you have any photos more clearly showing how you set up those items/ran the lines?

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I didn't but it's pretty straightforward, the lines are connected to the factory supply and return. The Radium Engineering CC bracket bolts in the same location as the factory fill/reservoir T and integrates the same, thus saving me from adding any NEW holes to the car, which is/was important to me from a detail perspective.

Thanks for sharing! I did have a couple of other questions if you would entertain them.

Are you using the hardlines in your HX plumbing? If so, do you feel they or the 1/2" or 5/8" inlet/outlet on the "T" are a significant restriction to flow? Looks like you have -12 coming out of the lid.
Are you using specific fittings or process to get the braided loom to finish so neatly on the AN fittings? i.e. catch can and HX lines. Looks really slick, I don't think I have seen the braided loom finished/terminated that well.
Do you have any closer pictures of the radium CC setup? Are you happy with it?

atlctsv06 said:

That is extremely clean! Very nice!!

Did you post about how you loomed and routed your Brick lines? I see you still have the T back there with a catch can. Do you have any photos more clearly showing how you set up those items/ran the lines?

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Isn't it?
Drives me crazy. I have a brand new engine, virtually all parts around it are new...and it will NEVER be this clean.

I think he is hiding something from us!

atlctsv06 said:

I think he is hiding something from us!

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Agreed. I think it's a pic from 2012.