Up to the rectangular pump hole? Half covering the hole? Extra oil cooling? Problems...?
Boostjunky Wrote:I cannot vouch for an LS block, but I have seen a filled "iron" small block chevy that was ran quite frequently on the street to include some lengthy jaunts on the interstate. He actually did a hurricane evac in the car and drove 3 hours away!! Anyhow, it was a 400 SBC that was filled to the bottom of the water pump holes. He beat the hell out of it and finally broke the crank in half on a nitrous hit, it had the stock iron crank. We tore the engine down at my shop, so I saw the carnage first hand. It had eagle rods and the rods got so hot they turned blue. To my surprise, the bearings looked decent as did the pistons and rings. IMO, the reason the engine didn't seize from the heat was the synthetic oil he used, Mobile 1 IIRC. If it was a full mineral based oil the engine would have locked up long before the crank snapped. He put in another rotating assembly and added an oil cooler to watch oil temps. We lost touch with each other shortly after the rebuild, so I can't speak for the oil cooler upgrade, but that was a definite must have for a filled block. All in all, I was pretty impressed with the condition of the engine on tear down and I witnessed 1st had the amount of driving/abuse he put on the car. I think if you can keep the oil temps in check, a filled block can work on the street.
Bruce, glad to see you commenting.Boostjunky Wrote:
"He beat the hell out of it and finally broke the crank in half on a nitrous hit, it had the stock iron crank."
That really made me laugh; uses Nitrous, fills the block to the bottom
of the water pump holes, and uses a stock 'Iron Crank'. .LOL
Boostjunky also wrote:
"He put in another rotating assembly and added an oil cooler to watch oil temps.
A little late, but still a very good idea. . .
When did he decide to put in an engine water temp gauge. . .Just being sarcastic!
Blades, yes as others have stated above, it helps to strengthen a block too weak for the HP.Bruce, glad to see you commenting.
I really don't "get" why they do this. Is it just to strengthen the cylinders? Doesn't mean that the heat will end up killing the cylinders they are trying to save?
That is a great history of why also why it does not make sense for today.Blades, yes as others have stated above, it helps to strengthen a block too weak for the HP.
Other than dollars, there is no reason to do this today, as we have blocks that are extremely
adequate for the power levels of today.
This was not true back in the 1970's when we only had factory parts to work with.
On small block Chevrolet's, once we began to make ~550 fwHP, the blocks would
be pushed out on the major thrust side of the engine.
So we began to fill the blocks (Drag Cars Only) to strengthen them.
We also modified the cooling systems and restricted the oil so that
each valve cover was not holding a quart of oil at the end of the 1/4 mile,
in an attempt to keep the oil in the pan where it belonged (wet sump).
Today, if your running Alcohol, you can purchase CNC blocks that have
no block cooling, or add some. . . As many cooling passages as you want.
The article quoted by Adam 112 is a very good article
but again. . .
Purchase a block of sufficient strength for your 'Street / Strip'
car as far as I am concerned. . . .
Consider the build that we are speaking about. . .
Filled the block to save dollars
Used a stock cast crank to save dollars.
Uses Nitrous, a cheap way to achieve more HP.
There is a lot of History to preparing and IC Engine for 'Performance Usage'.That is a great history of why also why it does not make sense for today.
Not quite what I'm looking for, but thank you for the post 😁I cannot vouch for an LS block, but I have seen a filled "iron" small block chevy...
After reading that, I thought I could hear Jeff Foxworthy saying, "then you might be a redneck"!That really made me laugh; uses Nitrous, fills the block to the bottom of the water pump holes, and uses a stock 'Iron Crank'. .LOL