Any here used the 10355hv oil pump?

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kittyboy

· #3 · 8 mo ago

KingColt said:
Has anyone here used the 10355hv oil pump? If so what were the results of the oil pressure?

I previously posted the attached charts, maybe they can be helpful. I do not have personal experience with the M355. I believe the stock LSA pump is a good option based on flow and pressure for most standard builds, definitely better than the 6665 my B15 came with.

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Lt1z

· #4 · 8 mo ago

Your b15 has different oiling then a factory LSA and does need the volume. Melling actually makes a 10294 for aftermarket blocks with revised oiling and no piston squirters.

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kittyboy

· #5 · 8 mo ago (Edited)

Lt1z said:
Your b15 has different oiling then a factory LSA and does need the volume. Melling actually makes a 10294 for aftermarket blocks with revised oiling and no piston squirters.

I am aware the primary main oiling, but figured GM could have installed a better long block pump. Good choice, I was considering that same setup when I re-build at some point. But for now I am just going to be cognizant of the 6665 limitations at WOT. Guess the legacy LS1/LS6 6665 pump was an available and affordable option? It's the cavitation at higher rpm that concerns me most using the 6665.

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KingColt

Discussion Starter · #6 · 8 mo ago

I made this chart to see what 20% more flow looks like. The pump has a high at 11.64 gpm at about 7500 rpms. I probably won't be going over 7 at the most.

I think this pump will work out good with 2126 Johnson's lifters that drop oil pressure by 15-20 psi to operate. Although idk how psi really converts to gpm

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Lt1z

· #7 · 8 mo ago

kittyboy said:
I am aware the primary main oiling, but figured GM could have installed a better long block pump. Good choice, I was considering that same setup when I re-build at some point. But for now I am just going to be cognizant of the 6665 limitations at WOT. Guess the legacy LS1/LS6 6665 pump was an available and affordable option? It's the cavitation at higher rpm that concerns me most using the 6665.

I would agree. some preach the B15 as the ultimate solution but it has its downfalls as well compared to a purpose built engine.

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KingColt

Discussion Starter · #8 · 8 mo ago

The b15 oils the mains first?

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kittyboy

· #9 · 8 mo ago

KingColt said:
The b15 oils the mains first?

Yes, that was one prime reason I purchased the long block. However, it is better to build a purpose built if you hav the know-how skills, tools, and quite a bit more money!

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kittyboy

· #10 · 8 mo ago

Lt1z said:
I would agree. some preach the B15 as the ultimate solution but it has its downfalls as well compared to a purpose built engine.

Yeah, if only a better pump I would have been a bit happier with the stock build and price. I did replace the dog bone when I installed the new clutch with an Improved Racing part. It's only 1mm more narrow, but if you do the math and logs, it helps...

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KingColt

Discussion Starter · #11 · 8 mo ago

kittyboy said:
Yeah, if only a better pump I would have been a bit happier with the stock build and price. I did replace the dog bone when I installed the new clutch ...

I was thinking about doing this but Its a pain to pull the trans and converter

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kittyboy

· #12 · 8 mo ago

KingColt said:
I was thinking about doing this but Its a pain to pull the trans and converter

I would not recommend changing the part as a stand alone project, but if removing the transmission and clutch for any reason, it's a good time to do it. Replacement of the main seal and rear cover gasket as well.

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Florida-Vee

· #13 · 8 mo ago

KingColt said:
Has anyone here used the 10355hv oil pump? If so what were the results of the oil pressure?

I have this pump from Precision Industries (they blueprint the assy and debur and other things) in my rebuilt stock bottom end, with rods/mains turned .010/.010. As far as psi, a high volume pump may bump psi, but will not give you any specific raise in psi since it's moving volume of oil over the bearing surface which some builders like better. Bearing clearances will also play into psi, my bottom end rebuild was done by a machine shop that is a bunch of old-school racers that build to looser (higher) clearances and they knew I was using this specific pump. With that said, my hot psi is 20 on a 90*+ day and I'm running 60w Redline oil to help with that. I'm in the camp where volume is better than a ton of psi., when you look at minimum psi for this motor at idle 20 is actually ok and I think my max @ 6500 is 60ish..
Good Luck
Jeff

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KingColt

Discussion Starter · #14 · 8 mo ago

Florida-Vee said:
I have this pump from Precision Industries (they blueprint the assy and debur and other things) in my rebuilt stock bottom end, with rods/mains turned .010/.010. As far as psi, a high volume pump may bump psi, but will not give you any specific raise in psi since it's moving volume of oil over the bearing surface which some builders like better. Bearing clearances will also play into psi, my bottom end rebuild was done by a machine shop that is a bunch of old-school racers that build to looser (higher) clearances and they knew I was using this specific pump. With that said, my hot psi is 20 on a 90*+ day and I'm running 60w Redline oil to help with that. I'm in the camp where volume is better than a ton of psi., when you look at minimum psi for this motor at idle 20 is actually ok and I think my max @ 6500 is 60ish..
Good Luck
Jeff

.10 more clearance and the thicker oil and the pump is still only 20psi at idle?

My sister ock bottom end on normal oil is 22-25

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Florida-Vee

· #15 · 8 mo ago

KingColt said:
.10 more clearance and the thicker oil and the pump is still only 20psi at idle?

My sister ock bottom end on normal oil is 22-25

yup, but I did say on a hot 90*+ day. but yes. however I am putting a lot of oil over the bearings. I've also noted my car has a lot less spark knock (mentioned from my tuner). When I spoke to the guy that owns Precision (who is a fluid engineer), he said that (the low spark knock) could be because I'm making a pillow of oil between the bearing and the crank. Hey all I know is it works and has been. Hope your build works well also.!

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S

specialp

· #16 · 8 mo ago

10 thou is a massive bearing clearance and there will have to be a lot of pump to feed that. So a high volume pump would be needed. But if you are running the right oil and a smaller clearance, the stock pump with squirters/or the lower volume pump that Matt posted for non squirter engines is fine. You want oil pressure to be sufficient but not excessive. More pressure is not always better. It makes the engine work harder to pump the oil and can cavitate the oil in the pump.

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KingColt

Discussion Starter · #17 · 8 mo ago

I still have my oil squirters and I'll be adding Johnson 2126 oiled lifters. Do you think the oiling would be excessive?

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kittyboy

· #18 · 8 mo ago

KingColt said:
.10 more clearance and the thicker oil and the pump is still only 20psi at idle?

My sister ock bottom end on normal oil is 22-25

It's a typo, no way .10, must mean .001"

With modern manufacturing technology tighter clearances have come a long way compared to "loose" clearances.

With an extra .001" you need to be running W40 minimum after warm-up, the stock V pump is actually a good pump. If you still have the squirters I'd definitely be running a high volume/pressure pump, just keep an eye on the pressure at WOT, normal driving no need to worry.

I don't have first hand experience running the pump your considering, but based on the chart it looks like a good option. Keep in mind, the chart values most likely assume .0025" clearance.

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KingColt

Discussion Starter · #19 · 8 mo ago

What level would be to high at wot

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rpol78

· #20 · 8 mo ago

I bought a 10355HV for my build but I haven't completed the build (finally got the pistons late last week). The main bearing clearances for my build are set at .0030 - .0033 and the rod bearings are at .0028 - .0029, so I have extra clearance on the bearings. I'm also running an oil cooler in the radiator and I'm using an LS9 block with the squirters. I'm debating running restricted flow push rods to prevent some oil going to the the top end but after reading about the value of valve spring squirters I'm not so sure I want to do that. If I decided to add valve spring squirters then I would lean toward using restricted flow pushrods.

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