Cost, pump availability, sensor life etc
Even then if its a race car just give me Methanol.
Even then if its a race car just give me Methanol.
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Which allows you to push the combustion process harder, deriving more power even though the overall process is less efficient, bringing those temperatures right back up.
They sell E85 because diluting the gas with alcohol makes it cheaper and they can claim environmental tax credits for selling it. It's a happy coincidence that it also works for making more power.
Thanks for the response. I'm a slow learner in many ways, takes awhile for light bulbs to turn-on sometimes.Which allows you to push the combustion process harder, deriving more power even though the overall process is less efficient, bringing those temperatures right back up.
They sell E85 because diluting the gas with alcohol makes it cheaper and they can claim environmental tax credits for selling it. It's a happy coincidence that it also works for making more power.
I'm still trying to resolve this comparison just from a power delivery perspective at this point. I visualize an efficient engine cooling system would mitigate the higher engine temperatures running high octane fuel with advanced timing to deliver more power potential compared to alcohol? I do understand the detonation risk factor in comparison, particularly in a boosted application, bad things happen fast!
I read this, thanks again for sharing, very informative.
In the PNW 10% seems to be the available fuel in most places up to 92. I blend it with 10% Toluene to bump it up to 94, seems to work well with my conservative timing advancements.
I just want to run this by you, maybe a repeat, just to insure I'm understanding things better at this point.
My target at WOT is 11.0 AFR in PE mode. I have the 2 Bar OS and am not tuning the BE at this time. As far as the BE, I've read that it is a bit slower to respond compared to PE?
Any how, with the slightly higher 94 octane fuel mix combined with running a bit rich at higher rpm, my reasoning is that I should be able to better mitigate detonation and keep the engine a bit cooler with moderate timing advance for power?
With the above information, what maintenance schedule would you recommend as far as plug inspection and replacement for mostly street use and occasional spirited driving, and any other areas suggestions and maintenance scheduling?
Running a bit richer, any downside?
Thanks again...
found an old log of mine u can see the first PE kick in and then u can see BE kick in and the time it takes to read on the WB is the same so i dont consider it a slower enrichment
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u dont want to be too rich and it can either and im not a fan of trying to dull knock with being richer as richer can also cause knock and u always want to get the good burn so the chamber is also clean as it can be, i was also wondering with yours if u have adjusted the knock sensor tables to suit the iron block ? cos if u were adjusting timing till knock and u have lifted a head maby the knock sensors and dulled down too much and your timing went too far ( seeing knock also means u are past best torque and on the wrong side already imo) best to do spark on the dyno so u can see gains/losses.
with mine i would service it once a year regardless of how far it was driven (usually few thousand KM) and my oil was just going dark brown so swap it out also because of ethanol the oil gets worse faster, and my engine insides when stripped down were clean like a fresh build, plugs i also do every 12 months with a cheap TR6 plug just so they are fresh, then general look overs every month or so if its been driven, i also found this for a good read between the fuels The Big Fuel Test Part 5: E85 Versus All—The Winner is Crowned!
u dont want to be too rich and it can either and im not a fan of trying to dull knock with being richer as richer can also cause knock and u always want to get the good burn so the chamber is also clean as it can be, i was also wondering with yours if u have adjusted the knock sensor tables to suit the iron block ? cos if u were adjusting timing till knock and u have lifted a head maby the knock sensors and dulled down too much and your timing went too far ( seeing knock also means u are past best torque and on the wrong side already imo) best to do spark on the dyno so u can see gains/losses.
with mine i would service it once a year regardless of how far it was driven (usually few thousand KM) and my oil was just going dark brown so swap it out also because of ethanol the oil gets worse faster, and my engine insides when stripped down were clean like a fresh build, plugs i also do every 12 months with a cheap TR6 plug just so they are fresh, then general look overs every month or so if its been driven, i also found this for a good read between the fuels The Big Fuel Test Part 5: E85 Versus All—The Winner is Crowned!
Regarding the the knock sensor settings, I have not touched those, still have the stock LSA settings. Good call, iron is definitely not aluminum.found an old log of mine u can see the first PE kick in and then u can see BE kick in and the time it takes to read on the WB is the same so i dont consider it a slower enrichment
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u dont want to be too rich and it can either and im not a fan of trying to dull knock with being richer as richer can also cause knock and u always want to get the good burn so the chamber is also clean as it can be, i was also wondering with yours if u have adjusted the knock sensor tables to suit the iron block ? cos if u were adjusting timing till knock and u have lifted a head maby the knock sensors and dulled down too much and your timing went too far ( seeing knock also means u are past best torque and on the wrong side already imo) best to do spark on the dyno so u can see gains/losses.
with mine i would service it once a year regardless of how far it was driven (usually few thousand KM) and my oil was just going dark brown so swap it out also because of ethanol the oil gets worse faster, and my engine insides when stripped down were clean like a fresh build, plugs i also do every 12 months with a cheap TR6 plug just so they are fresh, then general look overs every month or so if its been driven, i also found this for a good read between the fuels The Big Fuel Test Part 5: E85 Versus All—The Winner is Crowned!
Regarding the timing, at the time I lifted the head, I was running probably 96 octane, no knock, 18*-20* at 2.0 cylinder airmass, 6000rpm, a lot of torque I recall too.
Thanks again, I do have a bit of additional carbon evidence from exhaust on the pipe ends. I'll check the plugs, cylinders, and valves at 1000 miles, currently at 750 miles since head gasket replacement.
PS: Did HPtuner change the chart vs time tabs, they don't seem to stack the same v.5?
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