This is my recollection. There's no "active control" of the diff temp, so there's no PID (which is only required for closed-loop control). It gets too hot, it tells you to stop doing donuts. You're the PID. If you don't want it getting too hot, assuming you know it's good on fluid, your only options are: slow down or install a diff cooler.I don't think there's a PID for it I think it just reaches a temperature and throws an alert on the DIC
You are actually mistaken. PID in the context of an ECU stands for “parameter ID” or basically a variable in code. It doesn’t have to be a closed loop control variable like timing or afr like you would assume if it stood for the normal “proportional interval derivative” on a controls context.This is my recollection. There's no "active control" of the diff temp, so there's no PID (which is only required for closed-loop control). It gets too hot, it tells you to stop doing donuts. You're the PID. If you don't want it getting too hot, assuming you know it's good on fluid, your only options are: slow down or install a diff cooler.
Those competative FPV racers are crazy.Yeah. You're right. My bad. Sorry everyone. Too much FPV drone racing, where PIDs (closed loop control) are very important...
Very interesting update, looking forward to your finding. I will run a separate temp gauge when I install the cooling system, I agree, the rear is HOT as F in no time!I've actually been looking at this lately after rebuilding my differential. There has to be some sort of reporting of this on the CAN bus with all the other data, it's the only way the ECM can flash the stop doing burnouts message. Actually I think it's something like reduced power message. I'm about to tap into the harness and analyze the signal. It may very well just be a switch. There is nothing at all in HP tuners. I have a commercial CAN tool that will read every single message on the bus. I hooked that up to my Camaro last year and there were like over 390 PID's on 5 or 6 different buses. So basically I would hook that up, heat up the sensor, and see which signals are changing.
One thing I know is these things get freaking hot. I drove my car about 50 miles the other day in 80 degrees and put it up on the lift. After about one hour up there I took a IR temp reading on the diff case and it was 144F. Same as the oil pan. I do not know if this is normal operation but hope I didn't F something up in my rebuild causing extra heat.
Pretty sure my next "quick" project will be a cooler system for this.
The common rule of thumb for driveline parasitic power loss is 15%. If you assume that the gearbox is 10% and the Diff is 5%, and the engine is outputting, say, 100HP to cruise at HW speed, 5HP is being absorbed by the Diff. That's 3700 Watts. So that's roughly like 3x of your wife/girlfriend/s.o./personal-use hair dryer, blowing all their hot air inside the Diff for an hour. So yeah, there's plenty of heat.One thing I know is these things get freaking hot.
Like I said above there is a temperature sensor but it is a simple digital input not an analog value where you can monitor the temp. It is a thermostatic switch that simply signals high when the specified over temperature is reached (which is way too high like everyone is saying).I've actually been looking at this lately after rebuilding my differential. There has to be some sort of reporting of this on the CAN bus with all the other data, it's the only way the ECM can flash the stop doing burnouts message. Actually I think it's something like reduced power message. I'm about to tap into the harness and analyze the signal. It may very well just be a switch. There is nothing at all in HP tuners. I have a commercial CAN tool that will read every single message on the bus. I hooked that up to my Camaro last year and there were like over 390 PID's on 5 or 6 different buses. So basically I would hook that up, heat up the sensor, and see which signals are changing.
One thing I know is these things get freaking hot. I drove my car about 50 miles the other day in 80 degrees and put it up on the lift. After about one hour up there I took a IR temp reading on the diff case and it was 144F. Same as the oil pan. I do not know if this is normal operation but hope I didn't F something up in my rebuild causing extra heat.
Pretty sure my next "quick" project will be a cooler system for this.
Use this adapter with any 1/8npt temp sending unit.VERY interested in what you find. I installed a cooler with pump but have never completed the controls (for various reasons it fell off of my list) but I have a gauge/controller from Davies Craig that promises to do the job IF I could simply install their temp sensor or even a generic one. Of course the port on the diff is a little metric straight thread (I think 12mm) and I haven't yet sourced a proper sensor. I would LOVE to learn if the factory sensor could be utilized with or without utilizing the native CANbus connection. If i could tap into the CANbus somehow (meaning have HPT or some other device output an analog signal) that would be so sweet.
Good fit for fluids/pressure but I don't know (yet) of a temp sensor in 1/8npt. wish I did.Use this adapter with any 1/8npt temp sending unit.
![]()
AutoMeter 2277 AutoMeter Metric Adapters | Summit Racing
Free Shipping - AutoMeter Metric Adapters with qualifying orders of $99. Shop Gauge Adapters at Summit Racing.www.summitracing.com