The driveline (trans and diff) is mounted in factory mounts in factory locations and factory orientation and the driveshaft is now a one-piece. I doubt that the factory layout requires special mount modifications….. that aren’t already known about when swapping these shafts.
Maybe explain the thinking further?
I found that my local HF has their bubble balancer on a big sale so I picked one up.
I dismounted the tire and first, cleaned off all the Sticky Tack. I then rotated it 180*, very carefully mounted the bead-lock ring. I then lubed the rear bead seat (Simple Green was handy) and set the wheel over a bucket which allowed the back of the tire to hang freely, I made certain that the tire was in no bind at all and was situated as neutrally as possible. Then I aired it up to seat it.
On the bubble balancer it now takes FIVE ounces to center the bubble, not ten. The weight is needed at the same location relative to the tire
In the morning I’ll see how round it is, now.
There are two distinct vibrations in the in car: one is the diff, which i have been calling out ever since I installed it, but I didn’t want to believe it. I have now proven that it is the cause of a prop-shaft speed buzz that shows up at eighty and increases to a loud HUMMMMM at a hundred.
Tomorrow I may reinstall my old diff which put new bearings in last year.
The second vibe (really bad above 100) is clearly this wheel/tire.
I’ll know more tomorrow.
BtW: that Sticky Tack is damned sticky… and I don’t have a tire machine.
