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Just watch those passageways you've cut for rubbing and eventually leaking of the hoses.



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Discussion Starter · #1,182 · (Edited)
Just watch those passageways you've cut for rubbing and eventually leaking of the hoses.



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If my pictures had loaded, you could see some of the mitigation steps.
I’ll try to post some of the pics, again
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In the event that the hose laying inside the plastic rockers should prove to rattle or knock, I have an easy fix for that. But not unless/until I have to.
Fill the channels with foam
 
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Discussion Starter · #1,187 · (Edited)
Whew! Progress made! The trunk tank is now done. (the mechanical portion, electrical later) The tank was originally one that had a bilge pump inside. In order to repurpose it as an external pump tank, it needed to be modified by the addition of a suction pipe with ice screening and an outlet fitting sized for the pump’s one inch inlet.
A little welding to do, also added a mount tab on the front of the tank. I needed a 45 degree fitting to make the connection at the HX similar to the pex B 1” ell that I had used elsewhere but apparently they don’t make a 45… so I cut up an ell and made one myself(!)
I used nutserts in the tire well to hold the tank, hiding the hardware as much as I could manage. The hoses unavoidably needed to enter the trunk in a curved area, of course, so as much as I would prefer to use bulkhead fittings, there just is no real way to do that.
As previous, the cutouts are nylon-lined.
I can’t hook up the last two hoses until I put the cradle back in… which I hope to do tomorrow.
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Discussion Starter · #1,189 · (Edited)
Actual PROGRESS! The cradle is back in with TRZ components, modified LCAs, Carlyle calipers (15” conversion), new MagRides, Whiteline cradle bushings.
Man, it feels damned good to see parts going onto the car after all this time! Finalizing the trunk tank hoses, ran the Fore! wiring into the trunk, feeling better about the whole process now that most of the welding and fabbing is complete.
Feelsgoodman.
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Discussion Starter · #1,190 · (Edited)
If anyone has had success removing all that disgusting "grey layer" of road grime from the underside of the car, please tell me what to use. I have a large collection of solvents, tolulene/MEK/laquer thinner/acetone/DeNat/reducers etc plus a pressure washer plus many soaps and so far after testing EVERYTHING, I have had the best result using Simple Green and a lot of scrubbing; but it's still not great. (That's how I cleaned the gas tank) There must be something better(?)
 

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If anyone has had success removing all that disgusting "grey layer" of road grime from the underside of the car, please tell me what to use. I have a large collection of solvents, tolulene/MEK/laquer thinner/acetone/DeNat/reducers etc plus a pressure washer plus many soaps and so far after testing EVERYTHING i have had the best result using Simple Green and a lot of scrubbing; but it's still not great. (That's how I cleaned the gas tank) There must be something better(?)
Find this guy on Instagram. Uses Dry Ice.

 

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Discussion Starter · #1,192 ·
Thanks for the dry ice. I’ve forgotten about that but have previously wanted to investigate.
I couldn’t get the link to work so I went to IG and search “dry ice blasting”. I’ll see if that is an option.
I see it being used to strip paint, so likely too aggressive for this but I’ll look further.

I don’t want to remove the factory coating, only the ‘added’ stuff.
 

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Have you tried brake clean? That seems to remove just about anything
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,194 · (Edited)
Have you tried brake clean? That seems to remove just about anything
I have, Chloronated as well as non-.
I have (with every product) applied with a heavy scrub brush, followed by a pressure washing and a wipe-down and nothing has done the job.
I have literally tried every solvent and detergent on these two shelves. And not pictured Zep;Brakleen;Choke cleaner:
Liquid Bottle Bottle cap Solution Fluid

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I have not yet tried: Vinegar, Easy-Off, Pine-sol or the Tid-e-bowl man.
I AM going to try vinegar.

The best result so far: the gas tank after Simple Green and a lot of scrubbing and power washing
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Discussion Starter · #1,195 · (Edited)
LINKED
Signature (build details)
V Coupe 6M endless mods in process, waiting on some parts, still
(ordering and tear-down began Jan 2022)
NEW 427c.i. LSX 4.125 GMPP iron block
4" stroke Brodix 8CW BILLET 4340 crank
Callies Ultra Enforcer I-Beam (MP 3.5) rods
Mahle LSX Combo 2618 blower pistons
AMS Racing machine work
Improved Racing oil pan baffle
Mast Motorsports stroker windage tray
Improved Racing thermostatic oil cooler adapter
Hayden oil cooler
Mast Motorsports 295cc LS3/LS7 Black Label big-bore 395CFM 6-bolt heads, 2.25/1.60 valves
GPTuning Custom Ground StageFright cam (approx 235+/245+650+)
New GM LS7 rockers, Manton trunnion upgrade
Manton .375" 0.145 wall Series 5 push rods 503-145 8.210"
ARP LSX head studs
Johnson 2126 tie-bar lifters
DataDrivenPerf 112mm CAI
Nick Williams 112mm TB
Magnuson "Magnum P.I." 2650 LSA blower Boost District version
9.58"/3" DSX pulleys
DSX AN12 coolant flanges (Modified w/ air bleeds)
Custom fabricated polished Stainless intercooler manifolds
Motion Race Works Custom billet valve covers
Innovators West balancer, ARP LS7 crank bolt
Dynatech 2" SS long tube headers (Modded)
V-bands, 3" mid pipes
Swain Tech White Lightning coated (waiting)
DMH oval cutouts
Summit single round cutout
Coupe Muffler (modified)
Fluidyne HX, EMP Pump
Custom EMP mount
Rhodes Race Cars trunk tank (modified)
ID1300XDS fuel injectors
ALM Alloy engine mounts
Core shifter
AEM Wideband, Aeroforce gauges
OEMprovements dual pod
Mighty Mouse XL Gen 5 Wild catch can
FORE Triple pump return fuel system
Dual -8 rail feeds
DSX Flex Fuel sensor
Monster S Triple Disc clutch
TR6060 Full rebuild, new 2nd Gear and hub, Full Carbon synchro and bronze pad upgrades
PST one-piece Alum driveshaft
G-Force axles Thanks, Billy!
Compact Diff Cooler Tilton/Setrab (homebrew)
Davies Craig Controller/gauge
15" conversion, custom LCAs (modified)
White Line cradle bushings
Carlyle calipers (modified)
EBC Red pads
Goodridge SS brake lines
TRZ toe rods/ trailing arms
Race Star RSF-1
MacFab beadlocks (delayed)
HPTuners
New Moog sway bar bushings
Upper and lower control arms
New rear Mag Ride Delco shocks
Custom fabbed CradleCap subframe supports

Yeah... DON'T try to do the math.
 

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Thanks for the dry ice. I’ve forgotten about that but have previously wanted to investigate.
I couldn’t get the link to work so I went to IG and search “dry ice blasting”. I’ll see if that is an option.
I see it being used to strip paint, so likely too aggressive for this but I’ll look further.

I don’t want to remove the factory coating, only the ‘added’ stuff.
Look for Leading Edge. It leaves the paint INTACT
 
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Discussion Starter · #1,197 · (Edited)
Today my daughter stopped by and we stripped down the transmission in preparation for ordering up some parts to get that chore out of the way. The trans of course has 140k miles on it; Synchros on 1-2 and fifth have been long needing a refresh. It’s going to get all the bearings refreshed and carbon fiber rings, just for good measure.
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Discussion Starter · #1,198 · (Edited)
I've actually been waiting to tear into the trans for weeks, now, because she really wanted to be there for it. She's not seen a manual torn down and she's always keen to learn more. Her family and work schedules have had her tied up every weekend for months, it seems.
While in there, i was explaining the inductive pickup for the speedo and how the digital speedo worked.
Surprisingly, she really wanted to know all about how a mechanical speedo worked(!) So, class was in session!
A good time was had by all.
I think

Sunday was spent cleaning the trans components. I'll have to get some pieces on order.
Finished up the rear cradle install along with the Carlyle calipers and the Goodridge brake lines.
The Goodridge lines look pretty nice and they provide a nice custom fit. Only issue is that they don't actually provide the hex or the index on the mounting components.
This causes a bit of unneeded aggravation during install because NOW when working in the tight spaces around the cradle, where it's already a bit tight to swing an open-end wrench, now you'll need to add a backup in the same spot, where the originals hadn't needed it, because of the hex-broached holes in the brackets. I guess Goodridge saved a couple bucks leaving that out.
But anyway, that's done, tank hoses are complete, brake hoses, wiring for Fore system is pulled through front to rear.
Wiring the Fore will follow/

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She's not that way because she's an engineer, she's an engineer because she's that way.
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,200 · (Edited)
Mr Surly, Sir? Before you add brake fluid, could you please verify that your bleeder screws are on the top of your calipers? In these pics, it appears you have switched sides when reinstalling your calipers.
Good eye! A very real consideration (I could tell you a long story about a Corvette ordeal from 1977) that can cause massive consternation. Not a problem in this case, though, as these calipers (I assume because they are aftermarket) are actually equipped with a full compliment of four (!) bleeders each! The previously provided pics didn’t give the whole picture, as it were.
I have added more complete pics, here.
A real concern, thanks for pointing it out because it can be a maddening error and it’s one I learned the hard way decades ago. I promise you, it’s one of those mistakes you NEVER forget!
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