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Where will the front end of the routed trunk tank hose connect? Lid, HX, underhood tank?

This cavity runs to the upper radiator support with no real space to daylight a 3/4in hose without creating one or modifying one to be large enough.
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This cavity leads to the area just beneath the brake booster.
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The following is merely food for thought: With future troubleshooting and possible replacement in mind, I personally would have attached the hose(s) with clamps inside the frame rail as you did on the other side with the fuel lines, rather than leave the line loose in the rocker to bounce and flop around and rub a leak in the line.

Also, if you would like more or specific pictures of the framework of a naked engine bay, let me know and I will try to make that happen.
 

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Dude....you give me envy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,163 ·
when my buddy’s c6 was down for a motor swap he flipped the latches down on the door to prevent them from being able to be latched for the exact same reason. He could still shut the door and keep dust out it just would not latch
You’re correct, of course. The funny bit for me is that I do this all the TIME with my Silverado, specifically to let me have the door open with the radio playing and the door chime off. For some stupid reason, perhaps because on the truck it’s very visible and on the V, it’s shrouded…. I never even thought of doing the same silly thing. Im being a dumbass and even expending EFFORT to do it! HAH! Funny how the mind works… or doesn’t.
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,165 · (Edited)
Where will the front end of the routed trunk tank hose connect? Lid, HX, underhood tank?

This cavity runs to the upper radiator support with no real space to daylight a 3/4in hose without creating one or modifying one to be large enough.
View attachment 160629
This cavity leads to the area just beneath the brake booster.
View attachment 160630 View attachment 160632


The following is merely food for thought: With future troubleshooting and possible replacement in mind, I personally would have attached the hose(s) with clamps inside the frame rail as you did on the other side with the fuel lines, rather than leave the line loose in the rocker to bounce and flop around and rub a leak in the line.

Also, if you would like more or specific pictures of the framework of a naked engine bay, let me know and I will try to make that happen.
Thanks for the ideas.
The thinking was based on the use of Gates Safety Stripe heater hose rather than *several hundred dollars’ worth” of fancy braided AN hose.
This hose IMHO is MORE than suited to this task as this service is far less stressful than serving as an actual heater core hose. The upside is it’s flexible. pretty cheap, quite durable. The downside with it is that it sags… add water and it sags more. To run this similar to the fuel line (i gave this a LOT of thought) would require clamps every few inches, It is too large to tuck around the tank and it would be seriously unprotected where it would unavoidably pass under the tank…….and it would still look like crap. Yeah, I know, nobody would see it, still…
The beauty of the rocker area (thanks @random84 for the idea) is that not only is the hose supported by the ‘cable tray’ of the rocker, but the tray is plastic which reduces the chance of abrasion to the hose or the tray and doesn’t expose metal to rust as might happen laying on painted steel and the best part is that it’s hidden.
I really don’t envision a rub-through issue here. Maybe with another 100k miles(?) Being realistic. the build I’m doing all but kills the idea that this car will be anyone’s daily… and it’s very unlikely that it will ever see another 50k.
I don’t like the look of hoses. Any hoses, but they are a necessity, so since I can’t do away with them i’m going to at least hide them where I can. To get the hoses from the engine bay (firewall for example) to the HX under the bumper, I will very likely run the hoses in the wheel wells, hidden above the plastic inner fenders. The front of my car is fairly gutted just now, so easy to see, but I haven’t removed the fenders.
Now for the REAL question you asked: how am I going to route the hoses? Where will the pump be located?
The truth is, I don’t know(!).
I have read numerous threads here and elsewhere, opinions of every persuasion, and to be totally frank about it… this part of the puzzle HURTS MY BRAIN so I am right now working on placing hoses generally around the car and I will put off the decision-making for a few days.
I’d be open to any one’s ideas.
Do folks run both a trunk tank AND a front tank? I SOLD my front tank once I got the trunk tank and don’t plan to use one under hood. If there’s a compelling reason to utilize one, let me know.
What I know of my “plan”: i intend to send the —coldest— water to the —top— of the brick.
The rest is malleable
Here’s what I’m working with:
1.) Magnusson Magnum PI LSA with a dual brick. Both inlets manifolded to a single inlet fitting. Both outlets manifolded to a single outlet fitting. Both of these AN-12 connections will be at the rear of the blower one on each side near the firewall. Upper brick connector on driver side, lower brick connector on passenger.
2.) Royse Race Cars trunk tank, internal pump deleted
3.) Fluidyne HX with hose barb connections; upper on driver side
4.) EMP pump

My ice water-to-brick-first plan pretty much requires that the emp be mounted in the rear of the car. One potential problem with this type of hose is that a long run of it in a suction application might see it collapse. So, pump near the tank is fairly required. the pump oulet already has a -12 flitting while the inlet is a 1” nipple. I intend to use a 1” supply from the tank.
I also have to configure a screened pickup inside the tank.
The impositions of my choices to date:
a.) I’m keeping the coupe suitcase muffler
b.) the diff cooler I made takes up the pass side quarter panel space
c.) the trunk tank has its fittings on the pass side
d.) there’s no freakin%#£\~|€+^{]><£¥%%% ROOM under here.

I marked up the underside (playing with crayons, again) to roughly indicate the muffler; hanger; cradle mount to try to plan a pump mount.
here’s what I am looking at right now; outlet to a -12 90* up into the fender well and a 1” suction hose (dashed line) sneaking between the cradle and the muffler hanger. Across in front of the tire well and then 90 into the trunk. (nothing drilled, yet.)
I also discovered this pass-through grommet on the driver side has had to open holes for a long time. Maybe that’s the source of a weird “your window’s open” sound I’ve been ignoring.
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No.I’M envious of you… you get to drive your V
Soon

But all the upgrades, you're doing. You're doing them saving a shit ton of money. Bravo Zulu
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,167 · (Edited)
well I sure hope that my guesstimates on muffler and cradle locations are not too far off.
I decided that the ONLY spot to place the EMP (other than in the trunk) is the driver side quarter panel area. So, out with the snips and hammers and started banging on some thin sheet. I really like these little nutserts, btw. I’m certainly no tin-knocker but I think it will do the job. This sheet is pretty thin so I might need to add a stiffener later. It looks like this spot will work pretty well with the fender well hose routing. Of course, I’ll have to rout wiring from the connector at the front back here to trigger the relay. Is there a way to pick up that oem pump circuit in the harness in the back somewhere?
Here’s what I came up with for a pump bracket

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Nice!

Sent from my SM-G991U1 using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,170 ·
Where will the front end of the routed trunk tank hose connect? Lid, HX, underhood tank?

This cavity runs to the upper radiator support with no real space to daylight a 3/4in hose without creating one or modifying one to be large enough.
View attachment 160629
This cavity leads to the area just beneath the brake booster.
View attachment 160630 View attachment 160632


The following is merely food for thought: With future troubleshooting and possible replacement in mind, I personally would have attached the hose(s) with clamps inside the frame rail as you did on the other side with the fuel lines, rather than leave the line loose in the rocker to bounce and flop around and rub a leak in the line.

Also, if you would like more or specific pictures of the framework of a naked engine bay, let me know and I will try to make that happen.
As I don't have the fender removed, tell me if this circled port connects to the "front end" port (That the pictured hose is in) or if this hole is open to the engine bay?
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I suspect it goes to the front end port, and if so, I will add a hole somewhere in that area in order to pass my hose to the booster area and the lid.
I might.... have BOTH lid hoses pass through this side with the lid outlet hose going over the driver side fender well to the HX and the outlet of the HX over the pass fender well/rocker/ back to the tank...
 

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Discussion Starter · #1,172 · (Edited)
I’ve been studying the structure of the firewall/fender area and how the various layers of sheet are joined and shaped. The idea being to pick a path through the labyrinth that doesn’t compromise the cabin envelope OR the crash-worthiness in any silly way.
With the hose routed through the rocker, I can’t readily place it through the available hole under the car without endangering it. So I’m trying to take it UP and then through the sidewall into the engine bay. If I can get the OTHER lid hose routed through here, as well, it can connect to the HX on the Driver side.
After removing the coolant reservoir and hoses and insulation materials I found that there IS a hole in the side panel adjacent to the reservoir, and it’s close to the square hole seen under the fender. Right in that same spot is the only area where you can make a pass through, it seems. That spot avoids (barely) the double and triple-walled areas and so, planning as I cut as usual, here I go…

I can’t make the pics post 'in order' properly… oh well.
In one pic you can see the blue Allen wrench inserted in the round hole by the booster, visible in the square hole. inside the engine bay I marked spot welds with yellow and the blue line indicates where I intend to make the hole.
My nascent plan is to run BOTH lid hoses through this. To the lid from the pump and the outlet to the HX. The outlet should come out here forward into the fender well and (somehow) pass behind the headlight to get there.
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Sorry for the delay. I finished a 12hr shift at 1pm and crashed as soon as I got home. This week sucks so far. C'Mon retirement!!!!

Yes, they connect. The cavity is probably large enough to accomodate two 3/4 hoses, though it doesn't sound like that is your plan after breaking out the nibbler.
The red is the path of the cavity. The purple is where the cavity takes a turn over the headlight and then into the upper radiator support. I suspect you could cut a(nother) hole in that area to daylight your hose and route below the air filter area.
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Discussion Starter · #1,174 · (Edited)
Well nothing in the pics is final of course, just proof of concept. I opened the square hole to allow the lid outlet hose to pop out into the fender well and hogged out the inner panel to allow both hoses in/out.
It’s going to take trial fitting with the reservoir to see if the hoses can stay here without kinking. They don’t seem to be in a bind at least without the bucket in there.
I have a couple of types of edge protector with which I can cover the various cuts. Where the blue/ yellow paint markers are seen is a recessed area (recessed toward the driver side fender) where the hoses will have to reside in order to allow the reservoir to go back in. The reservoir takes up pretty much that entire area beside the brake booster, over to the fender except for that recessed portion. I can use barbed 90s and clamps if required in order to prevent kinking... but will avoid adding fittings where I can. If this approach actually works, these hoses should be invisible, even UNDER the car.
Also…. guess who needs a master cylinder…

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Wowzer! That's crazy!!
 

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Rumors flying around that there are 'real' issues surrounding the foundries
used by many of the players within the Hi-Perf industry.
 

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That’s super frustrating about the foundry’s.
 
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