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Discussion Starter · #2,001 ·
I sorta doubt I’m going back in with green parts.

I really can’t afford another multi-thousand-dollar clutch just now… but I (and @Ravenclaw_V ) am signed up and paid for the Caddy event April 30. I’ll hafta get something in place by then, hopefully sooner.
I think I need driving lessons!
 

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Discussion Starter · #2,003 ·

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Discussion Starter · #2,006 ·
Tilton Kit: 55-2010, same as in the image, I'm using an eight bolt flywheel, they have the six as well.
>>Tilton told me that they don’t have and won’t build the set-up I need. <<<
I'm surprised that you missed what I wrote, there.
As stated, NO. They DON'T have the 6-bolt that is needed. They have the ability to custom build it.
~They have before~ but they will not.
The man literally said "we can but we won't... we're too busy for custom work."
 

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Discussion Starter · #2,007 · (Edited)
Mantic triple wiith tbe heavier flywheel.

The only dual I would even consider is an RXT1200
Tell me what you think (because they had made an offer on an upgrade discount) about whether you would consider the Monster SC triple ceramic puck-sprung hub clutch as being up to the task.
 

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The RXT-1200 is the clutch my buddy has in his pro charged c6, they told him the factory 3rd member would break before the clutch slipped so he has been scared to stand it from a stop ever since
 

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I'm surprised that you missed what I wrote, there.
As stated, NO. They DON'T have the 6-bolt that is needed. They have the ability to custom build it.
~They have before~ but they will not.
The man literally said "we can but we won't... we're too busy for custom work."
No, I didn't miss what you wrote. I recall per the above pasted statement you expressed concern that my eight bolt Tilton kit wouldn't fit a V2, as well as your other sources and Monster. I know how persistent you are, maybe you could convince Tilton to consider a six bolt offset flywheel kit? I've been happy with my setup so far. You like old school legacy brands.
 

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Tell me what you think (because they had made an offer on an upgrade discount) about whether you would consider the Monster SC triple ceramic puck-sprung hub clutch as being up to the task.
I like their S triple for street cars because even though it isn't so good on the drag strip or for bigger power it drives nicely. Beyond that I do not use Monster and prefer offerings from other companies. FWIW I have run the Mantic and McLeod in many cars and they both work on the strip though are a little tougher in normal driving. Using the steel or heavy flywheel options is key here. Feel free to email if you want to discuss options. I would need to speak to reps and figure out the flywheel situation since I always build with an 8 bolt crank when dealing with a Factory LSA or LT car.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2,011 ·
Here's a quick screen grab... This is the first run where the wheels hopped so badly that I stabbed the clutch and then re-started just out of the lights and got a little air time on the restart.
Clutch did not slip this run that I know of.

Wheel Land vehicle Vehicle Tire Car
 

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Here's a quick screen grab... This is the first run where the wheels hopped so badly that I stabbed the clutch and then re-started just out of the lights and got a little air time on the restart.
Clutch did not slip this run that I know of.

View attachment 165634
Wheels-up are the best! When I was a kid, ALL I wanted to do were "cat-walks" on my bike! I am STILL amazed my car lifted the front wheels on numerous laps last year!

When you get the clutch issue dialled in Mr. S., your machine is going to be the proverbial rocket! Hang in there!
 
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Discussion Starter · #2,013 ·
It was pointed out to me that in the vid @Ravenclaw_V posted, starting at 0:14 the front is being carried through all of second gear... the front wheel isn't even turning.... which is weird to see. I guess I need to get some low-drag brakes! Is that real or just a video frame-rate thing?
 

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It was pointed out to me that in the vid @Ravenclaw_V posted, starting at 0:14 the front is being carried through all of second gear... the front wheel isn't even turning.... which is weird to see. I guess I need to get some low-drag brakes! Is that real or just a video frame-rate thing?
If you are looking to maximize drag strip performance you are going to need some suspension work and seat time along with a clutch that will allow you launch an IRS setup properly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2,015 · (Edited)
If you are looking to maximize drag strip performance you are going to need some suspension work and seat time along with a clutch that will allow you launch an IRS setup properly.
Good points; I’m not aiming at maximizing track performance, so I’ll happily settle for the last two of those three.

I'm curious what the suspension changes typically consist of (ONLY CURIOUS, DAMMIT) and I'll assume adjustable rear coilovers along with 90/10 struts up front?

Mine is very close to stock. Front: sway bar links removed...that's it.
Rear: a few TRZ rods and camber set to -0.9
Stock (new) magrides and springs.
 

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What tire are you on surly?
 

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Discussion Starter · #2,018 ·
No, I didn't miss what you wrote. I recall per the above pasted statement you expressed concern that my eight bolt Tilton kit wouldn't fit a V2, as well as your other sources and Monster. I know how persistent you are, maybe you could convince Tilton to consider a six bolt offset flywheel kit? I've been happy with my setup so far. You like old school legacy brands.
Well, I guess I'm not as convincing as I thought since the guy told me to pound sand.
 

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Good points; I’m not aiming at maximizing track performance, so I’ll happily settle for the last two of those three.

I'm curious what the suspension changes typically consist of (ONLY CURIOUS, DAMMIT) and I'll assume adjustable rear coilovers along with 90/10 struts up front?

Mine is very close to stock. Front: sway bar links removed...that's it.
Rear: a few TRZ rods and camber set to -0.9
Stock (new) magrides and springs.
Guys that want to ET generally move from Magride to Menscer or Penske coil overs and adjustable arms etc to dial the car in.
 

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I think you'll forever fight clutch issues with a drag radial on the car. Something has to slip off the line. A slick is made to do that, a radial is made to not slip. It's a lot easier (and cheaper) to slip a tire than it is a clutch.

I'll reserve judgement until you pull the trans to see what actually died in the clutch. Maybe it was some slave cyl problem again, but regardless, it certainly had to slip a bunch on those two runs.

What rpm did you launch at? What speed would your car normally be at with that RPM at whatever gear you launched in. How long did it take for you car to go from 0 mph to whatever that rpm/speed should be with the clutch locked? That triple disc is trying to lock ~8-900+ ft.lb of torque for that time and it's turning that torque into heat.
 
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