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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Good morning all!

With my Centerforce DYAD clutch kit nearly at my doorstep, I would like to gather some info specific to our cars regarding the clutch change. Most folks who have upgraded have opted to have a mechanic do the job. I will be doing mine on a lift an plan on recording as much as I can in order to benefit our community. What are some things you would like to see documented? I have to admit, most of the times I'm doing something I get too carried away that I forget to take pics.
 

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One thing that I can tell you is to be sure to mark the shifter linkage position so that it goes back exactly where it was from the factory. Any changes will result in a less than smooth throw. Good luck!
 

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How to disconnect the hydraulic clutch line, how to disconnect the shifter, how to unbolt the flywheel (isnt there a cover in the bell housing that lets you access 1 or 2 bolts at a time?) Pics pics pics please ;)
 

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How to disconnect the hydraulic clutch line, how to disconnect the shifter, how to unbolt the flywheel (isnt there a cover in the bell housing that lets you access 1 or 2 bolts at a time?) Pics pics pics please ;)
A small screwdriver should release the clips on the hydraulic line, and should be 4 bolts that hold the transmission to the bell housing, accessible on the outside. I haven't been under the V yet to check it out, but that's how it is on other GMs I've worked on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Well, the clutch came in today and I got in into the lift for 2.5 hours. I managed to get the rusty exhaust bolts off along with the driveshaft and some of the f*&^ng shift booth. That thing took the longest! Trans was also drained so in the morning I'm gonna finish with the shifter and then drop the trans and continue from there.

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Thanks for taking the time to grab some pics. Im sure tomorrow's pics will be even more telling!
 

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thank god GM had the sense to design self-contained CV joints for the DS.

VAG likes to integrate the CV into the flanges. which means when you pop off a shaft you get to replace a $20 seal and deal with shitty CV grease.

love that you're DIYing this btw. Don't be shy on photos!

I'm a DIYer myself, being that there's no one local I'd trust to do it(ie because I'm broke) and it's something I like to know I've done myself (the right way)
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I'm still debating if Ill change the pilot bearing....it was changed 12K ago when the engine was thrown in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
So here's a quick update. I ran out of time today on the lift before they closed so I'll come back tomorrow and finish it. The trans took a LONG time to get out of there. It did take a while to get the 8 bolts off especially the top one. I had to remove that one through the engine bay from up top. The slave has a quick disconnect so once you get all the basic connections off, your ready to pull right? WRONG. It was almost impossible to get this thing to fall back with the headers hugging the trans. We had to fight with with close to two hours so we won't damage it.

Once we finally got it off, it was time to go home so I managed to get everything back together and torque down the clutch kit in a few minutes. Tomorrow I have to get that trans in and work in reverse order (wish me luck).

Auto part Clutch Clutch part Transmission part Tire
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Now those are the pics I was waiting for! Keep up the good work man
 

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I had a tough time getting my transmission to line up properly where the input shaft of the transmission goes into the pressure plate. Additionally the bell housing bolt bosses hit the trans tunnel which kept the transmission from sliding back in.
I finally ended up draping a chain off the back of the engine, sliding a long pipe through the draped chain, from the back of the car towards the front and pulling down on the pipe. That forced the back of the engine down, twisting on the motor mounts. Tranny literally jumped in place then.
Hope it helps.
Warren
 

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Sounds like a good tip Warren. Did you install yourself as well? I'd love to do this myself. Aside from the $$ savings, transmission work is the only thing i've never done before. There's nothing in there that's "adjustable" right? Main thing that worries me is this guy on the other site that is having quite a bit of sound coming from his CF clutch installed at a shop. I wonder what they could have done wrong
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Most write-ups state that the trans just slides into place and can be done fairly easy on your own. Maybe this is true if you don't have headers but right now I predict a battle coming. Ill be able to give more input once I get in there later this week. Work schedule won't let me touch it until maybe Thursday.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Also, if it helps any, here are some steps/tips you should take to remove the transmission (someone else wrote this). It worked the same way for me.

1: Back out all 6 of the front subframe bolts about 1-1.5", leaving 1/2 of the remaining thread engaged. Similar to procedure for installing the D3 front swaybar. This lowers the front of the bellhousing to clear the firewall better, and makes lining everything up easier come installation time. At the factory they install the motor and trans bolted to the subframe from underneath the body.

2: Remove the 2 8mm bolts that hold the transmission cooler lines to the oil pan. This will allow the lines to be pushed out of the way when lowering the transmission.

3. The trans has to be cocked to a 15-30 degree angle toward the passenger side to slide in between the factory catalytic converters.

4. You don't have to remove the driveshaft from the car, just disconnect it from the trans leave it attached to the rear end.

5. The top bellhousing bolt is only accessible from the engine compartment, reaching behind the blower

6. When reinstalling the trans, once the input shaft is meshed with the clutch the trans won't completely seat against the engine, there will be a 1/2" gap, but installing the bolts and going around in a star pattern will pull the trans flush to the block. Be careful with this because if the transmission is not seated right and you start putting pressure on there, you could damage the pilot bearing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Had some time after work so the transmission was installed in about 35-40 minutes. I really wished I could weigh the stock cluch vs the DYAD but if its any indication, my entire package weighed 63 LBS. A good guess would be 60lbs without the box and packaging.

I had the help of a friend and a jack so it went in with some twisting and turning and did not unbolt the subframe to gain clearance. Finally, I managed to get the bell housing withing 1/2" of the block before I secured it with screws. There is one screw up on top of the transmission that can be accessed from the engine bay. When removing the trans, I did it this way. However, when re-installing, I used a long ass extension to tighten it from underneath. I torqued these transmission bolts to 37ftlbs. Retroactively, the flywheel (80ftlbs) and pressure plate (38ftlbs) torque values come with the clutch kit and have to be done in three passes.
 

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Also, if it helps any, here are some steps/tips you should take to remove the transmission (someone else wrote this). It worked the same way for me.

1: Back out all 6 of the front subframe bolts about 1-1.5", leaving 1/2 of the remaining thread engaged. Similar to procedure for installing the D3 front swaybar. This lowers the front of the bellhousing to clear the firewall better, and makes lining everything up easier come installation time. At the factory they install the motor and trans bolted to the subframe from underneath the body.

2: Remove the 2 8mm bolts that hold the transmission cooler lines to the oil pan. This will allow the lines to be pushed out of the way when lowering the transmission.

3. The trans has to be cocked to a 15-30 degree angle toward the passenger side to slide in between the factory catalytic converters.

4. You don't have to remove the driveshaft from the car, just disconnect it from the trans leave it attached to the rear end.

5. The top bellhousing bolt is only accessible from the engine compartment, reaching behind the blower

6. When reinstalling the trans, once the input shaft is meshed with the clutch the trans won't completely seat against the engine, there will be a 1/2" gap, but installing the bolts and going around in a star pattern will pull the trans flush to the block. Be careful with this because if the transmission is not seated right and you start putting pressure on there, you could damage the pilot bearing.
Hey, I wrote that! What a PITA. I'm going to build a subframe mount off my Transmission jack for next time.

Really intereseted to see your thoughts on the clutch. Keep us posted
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Flying V, yea I stole that from the tips you posted :). As far as the clutch, I keep everyone posted on the details. Justin, I would think the average shop would charge ~$500 for something like this.
 
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