Cadillac CTS-V Forum banner

1 - 20 of 62 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
What's up dudes, first time posting on here since I joined. Unfortunately it's to post a build thread after my car blew up! Yayyyy! Haven't looked at the tune yet cuz my HPT stuff isn't here yet, but I'm guessing it was too lean with too much timing which obviously ain't good. Car started knocking and went to limp mode after a highway pull in 3rd gear, dealership pulled the head and saw a broken ring land on number 8, wanted around 20k to replace with a new crate LSA, so I decided to bring her home and get my hands dirty with a little help from a buddy. This is gonna be a slow rebuild I'm thinking, but wanted to let you guys see it as it goes along, and also get some opinions on what to do for the rebuild.

Initially I'm thinking the cheapest way to get it back on the road is with a gen 4 LQ9 forged shortblock with an LSA on top. I'm pretty sure the valves won't be shrouded by the bore on the LQ9 but I don't have much experience with this so hopefully you guys can catch my WTF mistakes :D Posting some pics from what's been torn down so far!
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
I bought the car from a guy near Phoenix, and apparently the tuner was a dude named Nic? I remember the name Nic D tuning but I never met the guy. Should have been a pretty simple tune. All it had was an upper pulley, ported TB, and cooling stuff.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Yeah I figured that was probably the issue... either way, the damage is done and here I am turning out my pockets. Been kicking myself for not pulling the plugs and checking them out when I suspected it wasn't running too good. I actually had your stage 2 cam sitting in my garage waiting to install with my fuel system :D
By the way, totally not trying to call anyone out for this... just letting everyone see the damage and watch the hopefully much bigger and better rebuild :)
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
15,210 Posts
By the way, totally not trying to call anyone out for this... just letting everyone see the damage and watch the hopefully much bigger and better rebuild :)
Your first four posts are very unfortunate - and expensive! Thank you for sharing your experiences and good luck with the rebuild. Definitely keep us updated with what you wind up doing.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
786 Posts
I bought the car from a guy near Phoenix, and apparently the tuner was a dude named Nic? I remember the name Nic D tuning but I never met the guy. Should have been a pretty simple tune. All it had was an upper pulley, ported TB, and cooling stuff.
That sucks, and like Matt said, no injectors was probably the issue. Good luck with the new build, tons of info here.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Thanks for the support! Looks like I may be more into an LSA resleeve and building a 416/418 stroker. I've got the fuel stuff to support 700+ on E85 I believe. Got ID 1050xs with the DSX Aux pump setup for when it's all back together. I'll probably go with Texas speed for the engine and head porting. Anyone had any experience with them for machine work? I've chatted with them and they use Darton dry sleeves. Seems like their prices are pretty reasonable as well.
 

·
I need about tree fiddy.
Joined
·
1,061 Posts
Thanks for the support! Looks like I may be more into an LSA resleeve and building a 416/418 stroker. I've got the fuel stuff to support 700+ on E85 I believe. Got ID 1050xs with the DSX Aux pump setup for when it's all back together. I'll probably go with Texas speed for the engine and head porting. Anyone had any experience with them for machine work? I've chatted with them and they use Darton dry sleeves. Seems like their prices are pretty reasonable as well.
I had a friend use Texas Speed for a 408 LS2 build...engine lasted a couple months, if not less.

Ended up scoring the cylinder walls pretty bad (IIRC) and beat up the pistons. I believe he said the cylinder were not bored out properly for a 408.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
261 Posts
Texas speed ftw 2 years of hard racing big boost and nitrous still running like day one
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Since it's been about 6 months from the start of this post, I guess it's time for an update. Due to work and tool availability, it took me much longer to get the engine out than it should have. After the engine was out and sent to TSP, it took another forever to get it back. After TSP worked the block a little, we figured out that it needed to be resleeved which is not the worst thing in the world, but was unexpected. Since we resleeved it, I decided to go with a 427 stroked LSA. I got the engine back in and started trying to hook everything back up after 6 months of not seeing how any of it went together so obviously I'm making a few mistakes, but I'd say it's about 80% back together. I ran into a weird issue today, though. After running all the wires to their appropriate sensors on the driver's side, I realized there is a missing sensor near the oil cooler. Does anyone even know what sensor goes there? I tried to attach some pics of what it SHOULD look like from a buddy's car and what mine looks like but they wouldn't load. It's the last 2-pin male connector on that line of harness and it's supposed to go right above the oil cooler on the driver's side. Any help would be appreciated, and I'll post more pics as the build gets closer to finished. And of course, dyno numbers :cool:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,355 Posts
Since it's been about 6 months from the start of this post, I guess it's time for an update. Due to work and tool availability, it took me much longer to get the engine out than it should have. After the engine was out and sent to TSP, it took another forever to get it back. After TSP worked the block a little, we figured out that it needed to be resleeved which is not the worst thing in the world, but was unexpected. Since we resleeved it, I decided to go with a 427 stroked LSA. I got the engine back in and started trying to hook everything back up after 6 months of not seeing how any of it went together so obviously I'm making a few mistakes, but I'd say it's about 80% back together. I ran into a weird issue today, though. After running all the wires to their appropriate sensors on the driver's side, I realized there is a missing sensor near the oil cooler. Does anyone even know what sensor goes there? I tried to attach some pics of what it SHOULD look like from a buddy's car and what mine looks like but they wouldn't load. It's the last 2-pin male connector on that line of harness and it's supposed to go right above the oil cooler on the driver's side. Any help would be appreciated, and I'll post more pics as the build gets closer to finished. And of course, dyno numbers :cool:
On the DS (2 wire right above the oil cooler) would be the Knock sensor, and there should be one in the exact location on the PS. It is a single bolt (13 or 15mm head) that attaches it to the block. If you need help with grounds on the back of the heads I have some pics that should help.. Took many before I pulled mine in april, and it was tough putting it back together after only a coouple months... can't imagine 6.. ouch. Should be very strong. I'm guessing you had to go up in injector? (over the ID1050's since you are 427 and E85)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,988 Posts
DS on the lower forward run, You should have knock sensor and power steering as FV said. The PS is a blocky rectangular light blue connector (09 at least). I'm pretty sure it is forward most.

I have pics of the starter area should you need those.

I should have taken pics before tear down too, so I feel your pain...lesson learned, lol.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
15,210 Posts
You said stroked 427, what's the engine bore? I can't wait to see what this puts down.
Since he had to resleeve the block, he likely got a 4.125" bore with a 4" stroker crank. The good news is that the sleeves will be stronger than the original block in spite of the larger bore, and also typically extend further down into the block to provide increased piston stability needed with a longer stroke crankshaft - but potentially at the expense of crankcase ventilation and "windage."

I kind of secretly wanted a 427 too - just because it sounds cool. :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,355 Posts
  • Like
Reactions: random84

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,412 Posts
OP Wrote:
"Since we resleeved it, I decided to go with a 427 stroked LSA."


Or did he mean LSA ..... Bore is 4.065 inch.
With a 427 Stroke ..... 4.00 inch

Equals a 416 CID?

Cheers
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,412 Posts
Since he had to resleeve the block, he likely got a 4.125" bore with a 4" stroker crank. The good news is that the sleeves will be stronger than the original block in spite of the larger bore, and also typically extend further down into the block to provide increased piston stability needed with a longer stroke crankshaft - but potentially at the expense of crankcase ventilation and "windage."

I kind of secretly wanted a 427 too - just because it sounds cool. :)
Nice post Jesse...:cool:

There is another significant negative though......
Much material is removed from the main bearing webbing area when boring out for longer sleeves.
This does negatively impact the srength of that area.

Cheers
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
37 Posts
I just really wanna know if you're going to run the 1.9 blower on a 427. You did say LSA on top. is there some type of efficiency issues ran into with the larger displacement. Like the 1.9 can't fill the volumetric area as efficient as per say a 388 or 400? I wish I had the knowledge and education to think deeper into these type of topics. :( RANDOM, DUCK shed some wisdom on a newbie :)

* EDIT, DO I even know wtf I'm talking about? I visualize and conceptualize these things but have no solid background
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
15,210 Posts
The 1.9 is certainly undersized for a 427 cu in motor. Porting and pulley ratios help but generally you're leaving power on the table.

Duck can do the math depending on the cylinder heads, RPM range and camshaft.

But "ideal" and "will still make good power" are two different things. :D

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
 
1 - 20 of 62 Posts
Top