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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I'll try to keep this as short as possible.

Motor is an LS9 block, forged internals, ls3 casting heads, cam motion 238/242 119+5, arp2000 studs, e85 and supporting mods.

Car recently pushed a headgasket out. Heads are being decked just to be safe and the everything is going back together. Right now I'm on a Tony F ported LSA with a ZL1 lid. 9.55/2.38. I feel like I'm pushing this blower to the absolute limit at this point and I'm considering upgrading while the motor is torn apart.

At this point, is the 2650 worth it? I know they shine with big cubes, but at this point I don't feel like I have any room left in the LSA and I don't want to go any bigger on the motor.
 

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2011 CTSV Coupe M BLK LSX376-B15
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From past experience, I would say if you blew a head gasket with your current setup for whatever reason, I would check main seals and perform a compression test once back together. Your current blower ratio is at a max point already, maybe down the road when you perform a rebuild a larger blower would be beneficial. My main concern is your rings at this point. If the engine is running well just enjoy it for awhile, you may have lost some compression due to the blown gasket event, a larger blower at this point might just be enough to cause some serious engine damage. If you do happen to perform a compression test, I would be interested to know the numbers. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
From past experience, I would say if you blew a head gasket with your current setup for whatever reason, I would check main seals and perform a compression test once back together. Your current blower ratio is at a max point already, maybe down the road when you perform a rebuild a larger blower would be beneficial. My main concern is your rings at this point. If the engine is running well just enjoy it for awhile, you may have lost some compression due to the blown gasket event, a larger blower at this point might just be enough to cause some serious engine damage. If you do happen to perform a compression test, I would be interested to know the numbers. ;)
The motor is out of the car and being taken apart for inspection. As of right now, internals appear to be in great shape. Motor was built when I bought the car and the builder used factory bolts for some reason. Regardless, as long as everything looks good it will go back together as it is. I like the durability the LS9 offers so I prefer to stay stock cubes at this point.
 

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2011 CTSV Coupe M BLK LSX376-B15
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The motor is out of the car and being taken apart for inspection. As of right now, internals appear to be in great shape. Motor was built when I bought the car and the builder used factory bolts for some reason. Regardless, as long as everything looks good it will go back together as it is. I like the durability the LS9 offers so I prefer to stay stock cubes at this point.
Your just doing bearings and rings then?
 

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Surprised you pushed a gasket, since the LS9 uses a larger head bolt.

This is likely why it has stock bolts, since the Katech studs & ARP bolts were unavailable for quite some time.
I waited over a year for them to be in stock.

Personally, I would buy a set of ARP bolts (they do not make studs) on your rebuild.
I was less than thrilled with the thread engagement length of the Katech studs..
 

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Drop that lower pulley size down to an 8.65” or go up in size on the upper to 3.0+ especially if 8 rib.

A 3.0/9.55 will make 23-24 psi on a 376 with 2650.

You cam is also lacking exhaust duration.

Which head studs? Kong?

You should not be lifting heads on a studded LS9 with a 1900.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
The Katech LS9 studs are not the way to go. Either ARP bolts or the Kong stud kit which consists of ARP parts but is not an ARP part number.
The Kong studs are what I ordered. The plan for the pullies was to stay 9.55 lower and use the 3.0 upper. The cam is essentially the PD blower cam from Cam Motion and has worked really well for the car, especially with it being on stock converter.

I have looked at some of the other PD blower cams available like the BTR stage 3 or 4, but I haven't had much time to research how well they work on the factory converter.

Attached a copy of my cam card for reference. Here's the cam motion link.. PD 228/242 LS Supercharger Camshaft (228/242-118+4) for Positive Displacement


Font Parallel Number Document Monochrome
 

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The Kong studs are what I ordered. The plan for the pullies was to stay 9.55 lower and use the 3.0 upper. The cam is essentially the PD blower cam from Cam Motion and has worked really well for the car, especially with it being on stock converter.

I have looked at some of the other PD blower cams available like the BTR stage 3 or 4, but I haven't had much time to research how well they work on the factory converter.

Attached a copy of my cam card for reference. Here's the cam motion link.. PD 228/242 LS Supercharger Camshaft (228/242-118+4) for Positive Displacement


View attachment 165695
From this (see below) to the above cam card. . .

Motor is an LS9 block, forged internals, ls3 casting heads, cam motion 238/242 119+5, arp2000 studs, e85 and supporting mods.

Big difference here. . . .

The larger cam 238° by 119° will require a sufficiently
sized blower to work with the LS3 heads.

The smaller cam will require a highly reworked 1.9L Blower.

Just my opinions. . . .

----------------------------------------------

Since Matt is posting to this thread I will let him takeover. . .

But what is your HP Goal?
And on what fuel_E85. . . .


Cheers
 

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Doesn’t the card show 228/242?


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Since I am the only person on this forum
who is allowed to make mistakes. . . .

Put him in Jail, Steve..;)
 
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It is a 228/242. My apologies. I'm all over the place trying to get stuff lined out for the rebuild at the moment.

I see it was a typo earlier. For that kind of pulley combo on a 376 2650 you are going to want a little more overlap then what your current cam offers, or step the pulley combo back to a 3.25 or so.
 

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I wish I would have found the Kong stud kit a few months ago .... I would have used them.

The washers also hit the head bosses on my Frankenstein heads, so I turned down the OD... only to find I needed double washers due to the excessive length of the studs.
Even though the big studs were too long, the small uppers were marginally too short for aftermarket heads... I barely have 1 thread beyond the nuts.

I called ARP about making a custom set & they would not return my calls.
Giving the correct dimensions isn't rocket science.
 

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Reid products inc ,also called RPI racing makes hardware if you want custom studs and fasteners made . I’ve used their custom length shoulder bolts to shank suspension pivots from them . Can usually email them for special orders.
 
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